.32 acp squib bullet removale.

[Hanzy4200]

I had a squib yesterday in my vz61 Skorpion. I soaked it in Kroil overnight, and this sucker won't budge. Due to the odd design of the gun, and the barrel being fixed, makes this all the more of a pain. As pounding isn't working, the only options I see are drilling or melting the bullet. Is there any danger of over heating the barrel to lead melting temps?

[Kosh75287]

Is it stuck closer to the muzzle end, or closer to the chamber?

[Outpost75]

What type of rod are you using? You need a rigid rod which is close fit in bore and which won't bend.

Brownell squibb rod and dead blow lead hammer should drive it right out.

[Kai]

You need a bigger hammer. A cast bullet in a short barrel like yours should be no match to a stout rod and a good hammer.

[sigep1764]

Should just be able to use a wooden dowel rod, 3/8 of an inch or so, maybe 5/16ths. Hobby shops sell brass rod too. Take your calipers and find one .35 inches and hammer away.

[sigep1764]

I don't know about heating the barrel if you can't remove the barrel. I don't know if heating the barrel to 750 degrees would take the temper out of it or not.

[barnetmill]

I would like hear how this works out. Mechanical force should work. Perhaps heating and cooliong, but not melting might help break it loose. One does not for sure want to damage the crown and take that into account.

[JSnover]

I used a primed case to pop a squib out of a .357 years ago. Twice.

[nicholst55]

Don't use a wooden dowel! When (not if) it breaks, you'll never get it out!

[BD]

1/4" brass rod and a dead blow hammer should do the trick on a cast boolit

[1903.colt]

Please listen to the above posts , absolutely no drill , no heat . if this is outside your pay grade seek out a Gunsmith.

[45DUDE]

If you take it to a smith he will probably shoot it out. I would try a magnum primer like post #8 suggested. Make sure there's not two stuck. If it's plated it's stuck pretty good. How long is the barrel? If you had a brass spacer bushing smaller than .32 with a hole you could put down the barrel and drill it to stay centered. Take a hardened screw with a hex head and push through the hole and a flat washer and nut on the back and pull it out. Don't beat on it any unless it's in battery or something will break.

[barnetmill]

If you take it to a smith he will probably shoot it out. I would try a magnum primer like post #8 suggested. Make sure there's not two stuck. If it's plated it's stuck pretty good. How long is the barrel? If you had a brass spacer bushing smaller than .32 with a hole you could put down the barrel and drill it to stay centered. Take a hardened screw with a hex head and push through the hole and a flat washer and nut on the back and pull it out. Don't beat on it any unless it's in battery or something will break.

It is likely a straight blow weapon. But maybe one could still break an extractor.

I do not know if the barrel comes off of the weapon. If it does than I would remove it. First firing a primer will not hurt. Put more more than that and the recoil could damage the receiver is my guess. I would let it soak with penetrating oil over night or a lot longer with the barrel in a vertical position that you may have done.

[Hanzy4200]

Thanks for the input. The barrel is fixed and it is a blowback action. Bullet stuck just beyond the chamber. I have another fear. These are stamped sheet metal com block guns. They hinge open from a front pin. This means all the downward force is being exerted on the base of the thin receiver. It could very well bend. Is a Magnum primed case actually feasible?

[barnetmill]

Thanks for the input. The barrel is fixed and it is a blowback action. Bullet stuck just beyond the chamber. I have another fear. These are stamped sheet metal com block guns. They hinge open from a front pin. This means all the downward force is being exerted on the base of the thin receiver. It could very well bend. Is a Magnum primed case actually feasible?

If you are going to beat on it, properly secure it in a vice with an aluminum or other sort of grooved block to secure. If secured from the muzzle end nothing be bent and you are driving the rod in from the muzzle. Use a brass rod that is softer than the steel. I say make sure it is softer. Some curtain rods might even be bronze that can be harder. If it is at the chamber end of the barrel, that is a long way for primer to work, but I do not see the harm except to maybe get it more stuck if the bullet is over size and still in the throat of the gun.

[country gent]

It dosnt take heavy blows to remove a bullet.

A brass rod just under bore dia. Center drill one end just smaller than the rod. leave about a .075 flat ring on the face. This is the working end. square and radius the other end to drive with.

Insert in the bore, lubrication is good. lightly tap the recess will pull lead up into it shrinking the bullet

[kenton]

With a nominally .300" bore your closest size will be 19/64 (.297") or 9/32 (.281"). 7mm would be next at .276.

Mcmaster has 6" of 9/32, 360 brass for $8ish plus shipping if you need it.
https://www.mcmaster.com/8953K131-8953K132/

[Mk42gunner]

The only stuck bullet I can remember ever having to drive out was about four inches from the chamber in an M60D. The Lord only knows how long the airdales tried beating it out with small hammers.

When they brought it into the base armory we did the steel GI cleaning rod and a 16 oz hammer, then they said they had tried that.

I went out to my truck and got the three pound hammer. A couple of light to moderate taps, and it was out.

Sometimes it just takes a bit of mass in the driving tool.

Oh, and do not use a wooden dowel.

Robert

[Tall]

1/4" brass rod and a dead blow hammer should do the trick on a cast boolit

Yup.

[Texas by God]

You didn’t say what kind of bullet- cast will tap out easy; jacketed takes more thought.
The closest fitting brass or aluminum rod that you can find and a good hammer will help.
There is no way I’d try to shoot it out with a primer- that’s how it got there in the first place….


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