Help with some old revolvers I got

[Foster_99]

To make a long story short I have come upon an estate of four .32 s&w short and long revolvers and two .38 S&W’s. My question is that I’m not sure which would be blackpowder or which is smokeless I reload for modern cartridges and never even thought about these turn of the century revolvers… load them all for blackpowder to be on the safe side? Also the deal came with some parts guns…. One of the .38’s isn’t pictured in my attached photo because I was playing with it lol I’ll add the photo later when I get home; Thankyou guys and god bless

[schutzen-jager]

hard to tell from pictures - need brands, condition, + other info to determine manufacturing dates -

[Baltimoreed]

Most of those inexpensive old topbreaks were H&R or Iver Johnson. Have a few myself, even a .22. Only have one top break Smith. I remember reading that at one time they were a promotional giveaway item. I’m pretty sure they are smokeless.

[Foster_99]

Most of those inexpensive old topbreaks were H&R or Iver Johnson. Have a few myself, even a .22. Only have one top break Smith. I remember reading that at one time they were a promotional giveaway item. I’m pretty sure they are smokeless.

I will get model names and close up pictures this afternoon, Thankyou

[MT Gianni]

If I recall correctly, 1 gr-1.2 gr of Bullseye is considered a top load on a brand name top break 32. If you don't have a major brand, they may best be wall hangers. Collectible condition top break S&W revolvers rarely get more than $350. There is really not much of a market for them, while their beefier cousins in 32 Long easily get double that in very good condition.

[Foster_99]

So unfortunately I was really busy yesterday so I couldn’t get pictures of all the guns, I had a moment to take pictures of 1 in specific because my neighbor wants to buy this one; I’ll take the complete photos of all the collection later tonight and close ups

[skeettx]

First, rim fire or center fire?

[Foster_99]

First, rim fire or center fire?

Center fire sir

[nicholst55]

Find some ammo that sort of fits and that you can close the cylinder on. Then use them for throw-down pieces if needed. Not that I would ever do such a thing...

[schutzen-jager]

can't see picture clearly - if that is a Hopkins + Allen XL, they went out of business in 1904 so i would be carefull shooting any thing in it if not in perfect condition -

[Rapier]

If all the springs work and the timing of the hand and cylinder lock are correct, plus the cylinder chamber throats and bore all align correctly, then and only then would you consider shooting them and then only with very low power loads, like a minimum load.
I have two of my two x great grandfather's 32 guns....that I do not shoot. The chance of damage to a family piece is greater than the desire to shoot them. Both are Smiths, one is a short barrel pocket pistol the other is a longer barrel hip or belt holster gun with the original leather holster. They both will align, only sometimes.

[barnetmill]

Duelist1954 has a youtube out on them. If you use the correct granulation of black powder, the guns with moderate shooting will not be damaged. If they are pre I think 1898 that qualifies them as antiques and felons can own them. Someone in that status might be willing to pay a bit for such a legal for them own revolver and working ammunition. It does also depend on the state of residence.
it is difficult to know which were made for smokeless powder. Because the dates varied. Wolff spring did offer some springs for these guns

[hoodat]

Of the ones I now have or have previously had, the Smith and Wessons always seem to be a cut above the others. There are other brands I've never had such as Merwin Herbert and others that may be on par.

If timing and lock-up is sketchy, they ablolutely shouldn't be shot. The hinge screws on both the main hinge, and the latch should be checked for correct tightness. If after tightening these screws properly, there is still slop -- well that gun is probably not a candidate for shooting.

I've got a couple now that are mechanically perfect, and I shoot them with light reloads using HP38. Both are post 1910ish. Guys over on the S&W Forum can help with dating them. (or maybe someone here) jd

[Foster_99]

Of the ones I now have or have previously had, the Smith and Wessons always seem to be a cut above the others. There are other brands I've never had such as Merwin Herbert and others that may be on par.

If timing and lock-up is sketchy, they ablolutely shouldn't be shot. The hinge screws on both the main hinge, and the latch should be checked for correct tightness. If after tightening these screws properly, there is still slop -- well that gun is probably not a candidate for shooting.

I've got a couple now that are mechanically perfect, and I shoot them with light reloads using HP38. Both are post 1910ish. Guys over on the S&W Forum can help with dating them. (or maybe someone here) jd

Interesting, I was figuring I’d do some blackpowder loads for these but if I can do a super light smokeless that would be better; what’s your load data for yours?


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[Wooserco]

My wife's grandmother gifted her a .32 S&W top break revolver. I obtained loading data and brass to load for it 40+ years ago. At that time I found loading info in one of the really old Lyman manuals. Even at that time, they cautioned that ANY load could be considered "HOT". It was surprisingly accurate with the VERY moderate loads that I found at that time.

Having said all of this: I'd advise heeding Lyman's recommendation from that era and shoot them sparingly with VERY moderate loads. Enjoy them as collectables.

[dtknowles]

I use Lyman handbook starting loads in S&W top break revolvers, even the oldest without issues. Gun needs to be reasonably good mechanically but don't have to be perfect. I have a S&W Baby Russian that I shoot. They don't get much older than that. The auto eject does not work the rack is missing and the pinion is worn. Just makes it slower to reload. My experience (for what it is worth) is that S&W pistols are plenty strong for the ammo intended and age well (I have at least a dozen top break S&W revolvers) I have one Merwin Herbert, it seems even stronger. The other makes, I don't shoot them, could be dodgy.
Tim

[Dave H]

I ended up with my grandads 32 short H&R top break with a 6 inch barrel and nickel plating and I have a Colt solid frame 32 short with a 4 inch barrel I make bullets for both light loads they are fun guns to shoot