RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionLoad DataReloading Everything
Snyders JerkyInline FabricationRepackboxTitan Reloading
Wideners MidSouth Shooters Supply
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Looking to restore oxidation on aluminum, any advice?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    F-N-Ham, IL
    Posts
    422

    Looking to restore oxidation on aluminum, any advice?

    I picked up some reloading equipment at an auction. Some of the items have oxidation, what is the best way to clean the oxidation so I can paint / restore them? I've read that white vinegar, lemon juice or baking soda. What do you use?

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20231022_155150.jpg 
Views:	48 
Size:	51.5 KB 
ID:	319226
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

    Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad

    Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!

  2. #2
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,712
    For tools, I don't usually go all out and get fancy with them.
    I just sand it, feathering out the edges of the existing finish, clean it with a harsh solvent like carb. cleaner, and paint it.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master deces's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    noyb
    Posts
    760
    Powder coating the green parts would bring those back.
    These men and their hypnotized followers call this a new order. It is not new. It is not order.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    F-N-Ham, IL
    Posts
    422
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    For tools, I don't usually go all out and get fancy with them.
    I just sand it, feathering out the edges of the existing finish, clean it with a harsh solvent like carb. cleaner, and paint it.
    I have plenty of sandpaper and carburetor cleaner on hand. Thank you.
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

    Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad

    Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,567
    The steel parts on the case trimmer I would give a good soak in white vinegar and peroxide mixed 50-50. Check some what often. You can soak the aluminum also but the mix is much more aggressive with aluminum.

    A small nylon brush cup style in a die grinder or drill Work down wash with solvent dry maybe warm in oven a time or 2 to dry out cast aluminum Then prime and paint

    Just a food scrubbing with brush and dish soap will remove a lot and prep for new paint

  6. #6
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,712
    Quote Originally Posted by waarp8nt View Post
    I have plenty of sandpaper and carburetor cleaner on hand. Thank you.
    Hope it works. On tools-- I want them to work. Winning a beauty contest is a distant 2nd.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy atfsux's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    180
    According to Wiki-How;...

    When your wheels are heavily oxidized, you'll need to use an aluminum polish pre-cleaner. Spray on the cleaner and allow it to sit for about 10 minutes. Brush oxidized areas where necessary. Rinse and dry the wheel well before moving on.

    https://www.amazon.com/California-Cu...16652050&psc=1
    When democracy becomes tyranny, those of us with rifles still get to vote.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy


    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Green Swamp, FL
    Posts
    198
    Glass bead or soda blast the aluminum. Soak the steel parts in Evapo-Rust.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66...efix=rust+remo

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    SW Michigan next to a corn field
    Posts
    1,304
    For the blued parts, boil them and card the loose rust off. They will come out looking almost new if the pitting isn't too bad. You're basically just doing a rust blue step on them. Here's some Redding dies I cleaned late summer. Should of taken a before pic of the die bodies but they were at least as rusty as the blued parts. Boiled, carded and oiled the blued parts looked new except for plier marks and rust pitting. The die bodies were not boiled. Since they're case hardened I just hit with a wire brush followed up by a scotchbrite pad. Don't use your wifes nice pot. That's a pole barn pot I use mainly for degreasing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 45Redding1.JPG   45Redding2.JPG   45Redding3.JPG  

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Middle of the Mitten
    Posts
    1,456
    Aluminum oxidation responds well to wd-40...then brush...then even steel wool again with wd-40..

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    F-N-Ham, IL
    Posts
    422
    Quote Originally Posted by Moleman- View Post
    For the blued parts, boil them and card the loose rust off. They will come out looking almost new if the pitting isn't too bad. You're basically just doing a rust blue step on them. Here's some Redding dies I cleaned late summer. Should of taken a before pic of the die bodies but they were at least as rusty as the blued parts. Boiled, carded and oiled the blued parts looked new except for plier marks and rust pitting. The die bodies were not boiled. Since they're case hardened I just hit with a wire brush followed up by a scotchbrite pad. Don't use your wifes nice pot. That's a pole barn pot I use mainly for degreasing.

    The die bodies and blued parts turned out great. Thanks for the pics showing the end product.
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

    Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad

    Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    SW Michigan next to a corn field
    Posts
    1,304
    Quote Originally Posted by waarp8nt View Post
    The die bodies and blued parts turned out great. Thanks for the pics showing the end product.
    Boiling and carding rusted blued steel parts is often overlooked in favor of stripping all the finish off and starting over. I like it as it's minimal effort and investment. I do have a SS .0025" wire carding wheel, but have used degreased 0000 steel wool, old jeans and burlap. The old rust film you're removing isn't attached very hard and generally comes off easily. If its not, try boil it again. The carding wheels are much faster though and make it easier to get into crevices like knurling. Looks like they've gone up since I got mine but the 4-row is still only $30 at brownells. Look up Mark Novak/Anvil rust bluing on youtube if you're bored. He has a bunch of videos on restoring rusted firearms where boiling and carding is all he does to the metal.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy waarp8nt's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    F-N-Ham, IL
    Posts
    422
    Quote Originally Posted by Moleman- View Post
    Look up Mark Novak/Anvil rust bluing on youtube if you're bored. He has a bunch of videos on restoring rusted firearms where boiling and carding is all he does to the metal.
    I watched his video on restoring a K98, pretty amazing stuff.
    Boolits Feedback <> Gunbroker Feedback

    Just remember son, many times free advise is worth what you pay for it. ~ My Dad

    Bluegrass...the speed metal of country music!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    SW Michigan next to a corn field
    Posts
    1,304
    Quote Originally Posted by waarp8nt View Post
    I watched his video on restoring a K98, pretty amazing stuff.
    He's got a lot of similar videos all pretty amazing how they turn out especially if they're not heavily pitted. Just something else to put in the bag of tricks.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check