does powder go bad?

[jkcerda]

getting back into reloading, powder was kept in AC office , it's been a couple of years since I casted & PC boolits.
I was doing the shake & bake, it was taking forever and the coverage was not great.
these are 9mm and they cast and drop very easy, hence the reason I am looking for a .45 HP mould



tried the FB group but post simply don't get approved there.

might as well ask on this thread as well about a good MP mould for .45 , I see 2 options for the 1911 the 185 SWC HP (HG68) MP 452-185 SWC HP PB 4 Cavity No Lube Groove Mold and MP 452-200 HP 4 Cavity Mold – No Lube Groove , I don't know which one will feed better on the 1911.

[Rapier]

My experiance is that the powder for powder coating gets moisture in it, unless it is stored in an air tight, screw on top, container. It is similar to storing salt, if you have a loose fitting lid it will pull in moisture, that causes a rough coating when baked.
Once I got a large mouth storage container with a soft gasket and a screw on lid, then only opened it to add bullets and remove them, the problem went away. I replaced the old powder, but, you might be able to dry it by a low setting on an oven, back to "powder dry." On the 1911, the go to for many decades is the H&G 200, most molds for the bullet ID as a H&G style.

[Kraschenbirn]

+1 on screw-top container. When I first began PC, I 'lost' a couple bags of Smoke's powder by leaving it in the ziploc bags inside a Tupperware kitchen container over a very wet Springtime. Switching to good old-fashioned Mason Jars with a dessicant pack thrown in solved the problem. Baked a batch of Lee 312-185s earlier this afternoon using Smoke's Clear that's been on my shelf for nearly two years.

Bill

[jkcerda]

thanks guys. my containers are not screw in , they are plastic with snap on lids. going to order new powder.

[jkcerda]

My experiance is that the powder for powder coating gets moisture in it, unless it is stored in an air tight, screw on top, container. It is similar to storing salt, if you have a loose fitting lid it will pull in moisture, that causes a rough coating when baked.
Once I got a large mouth storage container with a soft gasket and a screw on lid, then only opened it to add bullets and remove them, the problem went away. I replaced the old powder, but, you might be able to dry it by a low setting on an oven, back to "powder dry." On the 1911, the go to for many decades is the H&G 200, most molds for the bullet ID as a H&G style.

like this? seems to be the HG68

https://www.mp-molds.com/product/mp-...o-lube-groove/

[charlie b]

Do you want/need to use a HP bullet? If so the MP would be my choice.

If the SWC is ok then the H&G or it's many copies (I even use the Lee version) is a great choice for most 1911's. Some older ones may need to have ramp polished/reshaped. OAL is key to reliable feeding.

[Smoke4320]

To confirm the above answers yes the PC will absorb moisture and that will kill the ability to create static.
Store ONLY in air tight containers.
Screw Type with a gasket is good

[Rapier]

That version of the H&G should be OK, if you cast them hard enough to feed without deforming the front of the nose on the ramp during feeding. The design uses the square edges to cut 452 diameter round holes. Making them hard defeats the idea of the HP to a degree, however and adds a bit of complication in that if the hollow pointer is aligned just a tad off center it can alter the axis of rotation and create a wobble, making the bullet inaccurate. Usually, keeping it simple is a better choice with cast bullets, especially when a caster is just starting out.
Suggest you cast a few bullets, size the bullets, load a couple of dummy rounds, no powder, no primer. Then pull the slide back and lock it. Load two dummy rounds in a mag and push the slide release to check mechanical function, then examine the dummy rounds that were hard chambered for bullet nose deformation. The H&G cast design works, real well as a solid.

[rsrocket1]

I have a 2 pound bag of powder coat powder. I open it up maybe once a year to put some powder into a screw top container. When powder coating, I take the half teaspoon amount of powder to coat about 100 boolits, then store the container in a gallon ziplock bag. Even after several years, the powder works as well as it did when fresh. Any moisture in the air will be absorbed into the powder and eventually cause poor static cling to the lead. The pigment tends to fail first which is why clear PC may be the best for ling term storage.

[WantGrape]

thanks guys. my containers are not screw in , they are plastic with snap on lids. going to order new powder.

I put clear wrap under lids, not had any trouble.

[Bazoo]

Interesting discussion, thanks for starting this thread. Guess I need to consider the powder I have as a maybe. It's been on the shelf about 3 years waiting for me to take the plunge. I guess if my bullets come out rough I'll know why. I probably ought to get a fresh bag to learn on.

I had an RCBS 45-201-SWC that I shot out of a Springfield Milspec for a few years. It never gave me any trouble feeding. It was accurate too, more than I was able to be.

[trapper9260]

I put clear wrap under lids, not had any trouble.

You could use wax paper under the lid to seal it . You can 2x the fold under the lid will take care of the problem and make a seal. I do it for the ground up mulberry leaves I use to make tea with and it is just as good as when I first ground it . I will do it also when I open my bags of powder to coat some . It will make a tight seal . Unless someone else have anther idea on it . I also use it on the bait and lures I make for trapping and works .

[Charlie Horse]

I used some ancient, unknown powder that was given me and it worked fine. It was in plastic bags.

I funnel my powder into plastic water bottles. They seal well and it is very easy to shake out a precise amount.