My favorite way of testing lead hardness.

[THE_ANTIDOTE]

It's about as close as I can personally get to choosing lead accurately for my personal uses. I just need to grade the indentations and see where they correspond with the BHN. I place the plunger where ever I want to mark/measure, I push down with my finger until it clicks (spring loaded) only takes a second or two, it leaves a nice little divit that I then compare to other bullets I have of different BHN. Using a Walmart receipt bar code as my gauge, I know that if it measures 7.5-8 lines across it's 5-6 BHN. If it measures 4-6 lines, I am right around 13-15 BHN. Anything measuring under 4 lines and I am quite certain it is hard cast that is well over 18 BHN. This kinda like the LEE tester, but way faster and easier as I utilize the zoom features of my phone to get down and close to my work...no eye strain, no guessing... I do make sure to remove any powder coat or coating of any lead I am checking. I know it's not ideal, but it works for me and I get consistent results because it is spring loaded. No press, no special V block to hold the bullets, I can test from a large block of lead down to a .38 special (it's my smallest caliber that cast). I just thought I would share my experience just for fun. By the way, in the image with the three bullets side by side, if you notice, the two on the left have identical divit because both were poured from the same pot of pure lead. The bullet to the far right is a harder alloy as can be seen by the shallower and not so wide impression. One could say that I don't know what I"m doing but the results are there and it's been working.

[greybuff]

What is it and where did you get it? Thanks.....

[THE_ANTIDOTE]

It's a muscle stimulator. It's called STIMULATOR, Trigger Point Stimulator can be purchased on AMAZON. They have been around for a while, mine is a little older, the current design has a bit different shape to the handles but the only leverage point needed is the button on top of the plunger. CAUTION, although it does not require batteries...it does create an electric charge and will jolt you on occasion. Once you establish a base using your softest lead, you can then identify harder lead alloys by comparing the diameter/depth of the indent. I don't have an actual hardness table/chart that I go by, but it's not that complicated to gauge. Anything harder than pure soft dead lead is going to show less and less of a dent. For me, the bullet examples I posted are all I really care about since those are the hardness/ dent impression levels that work in my case. The LEE tester requires about 60 pounds of pressure, this requires just a bit less I'd say. I got the idea from when I was a kid and would watch my Grandpa mark metal for drilling with a punch in a plunger. I would still advice to watch for pressure signs until you are confident you are getting consistent results of your own.

[dverna]

Simple is good if it works!!!

I use known alloys but this would be useful for folks mixing their own.

[georgerkahn]

Similar to OP's tool is an automatic centre punch. I have a couple, and one is adjustable. NOT very scientific , but -- 'specially for pistol bullets cast -- I'll use this tool on two or three of my cast bullets -- and then compare the depression with that on similar calibre factory bullets. If it is close enough -- that's (for me) "close enough".
I do have the Cabine Tree, SAECO, and a couple other "REAL" lead hardness gaugers, but they only come out if there's a huge difference in the centre-punch depression vs factory bullet's. I'd oft have a "God-only-might-know" mix of range lead + wheel weights + purchased ingots from gas station + ????. Rather than wasting a lot of time and effort -- it worked well to use the centre punch and -- if necessary -- add a bit of Rotometal hard. In most all cases, my mix was softer than I had desired.
geo

[Rickf1985]

I did a write up on here a while ago using the auto center punch. It works but you need to figure out what the dent sizes represent on known samples first. Using a bar code will not work unless you use the exact same bar code every time. Codes change to match pricing. better to use a caliper.

[THE_ANTIDOTE]

Yeah, the bar code was just for demonstration purposes. I have done it this way for quite a while now that I can just eyeball it and know.

[Gonefshn]

I use bullets of known BHN and compress them in a vise with a bullet made from unknown BHN lead from same mold. With a steel shot or barring of known diameter between the bullets. Using a bench vise till the bullets touch or even more. Then I take them apart. The ball is always stuck in one. A tug of war but opposite of pulling. Then I measure the bullet length with ball and without . The additional length to the bullet is the penetration into the opposite bullet. And by subtracting the additional length from the ball diameter you get the penetration into the bullet it is stuck in. If the ball is deeper into the unknown BHN bullet then the unknown bullet is less hard. If it is less deep into the unknown BHN bullet then the unknown is harder. I believe larger balls used are more accurate because they are easier to measure accurately. Like BB shot verses #8 shot. Also this can be done on bars of lead. This will not give you an exact number. But it will tell you harder or softer then the known sample.