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Thread: Sudden Loss of Sharps Accuracy

  1. #1
    Boolit Master 1874Sharps's Avatar
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    Sudden Loss of Sharps Accuracy

    Gentlemen:

    I wanted to garner some opinions about what could be the cause of the loss of accuracy in my Pedersoli Sharps 45-70. First some background: I have had this rifle for about twenty years and have shot around two thousand rounds through it ( mostly lead boolits with BP). The rifle has consistently been able to group 1 MOA with a load of 67 grains of Swiss 1 1/2 FG and a Lyman 500 grain RN boolit. In fact, I used that load to harvest an antelope with one shot through the heart at 200 yards two seasons ago. I was very confident with the rifle and that load until recently. There’s nothing going on in the bore that I can see that would explain the accuracy going to about 7 MOA at 100 yards. I also checked the firing pin to see if it was broken and it was good. I can’t think of anything else to check.

    If re-barreling the action is necessary, do any of you have recommendations as to brand? I have been looking at a Krieger barrel. They sell one with Henry rifling and one with conventional cut rifling. I have never heard of Henry rifling before, but apparently it has rounded lands and grooves and is claimed to be superior for BPCR. Does anyone have experience with this type of barrel? Will such rifling shoot paper patch boolits, or only conventional grease groove boolits? If I am going to have to re-barrel my Sharps, I want to optimize it for BPCR.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Have you changed anything, Brass, powder, primers, alloy. If this is the same bath of powder it might be age. Even different lot numbers can make a big change.

    Have you annealed your brass lately?

    I would anneal the brass if you havent been. Then try a test load of +1 grn and minus 1 grain from your load.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


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    I can scarcely believe that 2K of lead bullets could harm a barrel. You may want to invest in a bore scope, then you'll have information that can help you decide which direction to jump. It would be a shame to replace a barrel that just needs the fouling removed. Good luck on your project.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I would look real hard at your powder ??? Did you ever run a load over a coronagraph ?? Lot to lot on powder has a big area for discrepancy's ? I have had from one lot to the next, going from 38 to 41 grains to hold 1200 FPS, that was just on two lots... I check every lot now for the 1200 FPS threshold ??

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Unless the barrel was allowed to corrode or it was damaged from improper cleaning 2K is hardly even broken in.

    Last two Krieger barrels that I purchased for BPCR 50/50 had land/groove width. Krieger recommended that over the Henery rifling.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master 1874Sharps's Avatar
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    My load did not change, in fact I used ammo from the same lot that I loaded up for the antelope hunt, since the outfitter guide recommended bringing at least fifty rounds to the hunting camp. I tried fresh loads as well with the same bad results.

    It does seem reasonable that there should be nothing wrong with the barrel after shooting two thousand lead boolits through it. After all, we are not talking about a 220 Swift or some such thing. Perhaps the gunsmith can bore scope it and see if anything shows up.

    I should have addressed this thread to Ladies and Gentlemen, I see. Pardon my assumption that only guys would be out there.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    [QUOTE=M-Tecs;5618565]Unless the barrel was allowed to corrode or it was damaged from improper cleaning 2K is hardly even broken in.

    This !!!

    the 2000rounds of lead and blackpowder is not the problem

    That said - if you are running a grease boolit that doesnt quite carry enough lube (most of em!) it takes only the tiniest corrosion mark near the muzzle to upset things - likely to happen with extended storage in a damp environment - ask how did I learn this ? --bought one ! --after struggling with leading near the muzzle (tantalising accuracy for two or three shots from clean then all gone to hell) I ended up lopping four inches off the end till I got back to 100% clean rifling, sold the molds I had with skinny little grease grooves, problem went away! It took a jewellers loup, a proper bore light and good eyes to see what was wrong with that bore until after I cut it off.

    "Consistently one MOA ? " you are a better rifleman than most of us .....................................

    Something has changed - could be as simple as how you support the forend when you shoot.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    Might run a turpentine patch thru the bore and see if you pull any lead.
    Also pull the firing pine and clean the hole in the breech block.
    Might also pull the forearm and see if the wood has swollen or shrunk and putting different pressure on the barrel.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Don McDowell View Post
    Might run a turpentine patch thru the bore and see if you pull any lead.
    Also pull the firing pine and clean the hole in the breech block.
    Might also pull the forearm and see if the wood has swollen or shrunk and putting different pressure on the barrel.
    My first thought…..forearm. Doesn’t take much to ruin accuracy if this is or has moved.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I'd go with scoping the bore and insuring there is noo leading. A six MOA difference is a heck of a change.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Master Castaway's Avatar
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    All good suggestions, but something else to check is your rear sight for any wobble and your front sight to see if it’s sliding back and forth in the dove tail

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    The fact that the accuracy loss was sudden rather that gradual makes me think one of the above suggestions are the case rather than a shot out barrel.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Well that sinks .....

    Okay if not the shooter then something changed.

    Something loose, moving.

    Dirt or something around barrel.

    Was gun dropped, barrel bent? Something else bent.

    Powder, bullet, casing, and primmer the same.

    Over cleaned ?? I have a gun if I clean it shoots 5-7 inch groups at hundred.
    Lightly cleaned 3-5 inch groups. That barrel needs replaced but first shot tests
    are about 2 inch group and 150 gr. pill is moving at 3250 or so. A hunting gun
    for white tails and hard to get over a 200 yard shot.

    Best of luck !!

    Teddy

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    How old is the lube on the bullets? I had a batch of Buffalo Bore .54 ML slugs that previously shot well then they sat for about ten years. I fished them out for some guests to shoot and the lube had dried out enough that accuracy went out the window. Are you working from an old batch?

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy freakonaleash's Avatar
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    Make sure your stock screws are tight.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master 1874Sharps's Avatar
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    The shooter, in this case, is always of dubious quality- lol. The cartridges were both freshly loaded and 1 1/2 years old, with no discernible difference in function.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    [QUOTE=1874Sharps;5618986]The shooter, in this case, is always of dubious quality- lol.

    like most of us! so go shoot something else that you know is on the money - eliminate one variable at the time?

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'm not sure if who it was (Mike Venturino i belive) spoke to a sudden loss of accuracy in a Sharps of his that sounds eerily like yours.

    He rendered the issue down to a broken firing pin.

    I have no idea how a broken firing pin in a Sharps would affect accuracy but once it was replaced his issue was resolved.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Had your eyes checked lately? I would go with crown buggered, screws loose, forearm loose or warped. Your bullits are the same?

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy

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    A broken firing pin was my first thought too, but you said you've already checked that. I'm not sure if the transfer bars can break in a way that will let the rifle still fire at all, but I assume if you've checked the pin you've taken the dovetail plate off the back of the block? A broken transfer bar would have been obvious then, I would think.

    Any chance the barrel has gotten a ring in it?

    I hope you'll let us know once you figure it out! Good luck!
    Running the ridges and riding the rivers of the Southwest Virginia Appalachians

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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