Meet Bob.
This is Bob, with his brother, Robert.
This is the nifty firing pin protrusion tool LAGS made.
This is really nifty, and will be test fired either tomorrow or Sunday.
Meet Bob.
This is Bob, with his brother, Robert.
This is the nifty firing pin protrusion tool LAGS made.
This is really nifty, and will be test fired either tomorrow or Sunday.
I picked up a spare hammer to be Bobbed.
That way,
If he is not happy with a Bobbed hammer.
Or he wants to be able to shoot single action , he can just swap out the hammers.
Yes,
I did make that firing pin protrusion gauge tool.
I just couldn't see spending a ton of money on tools that I rarely use , but are needed to have for critical checking on my rebuilds.
One thing that Armoredman didn't mention about that revolver.
That is a Rossi 885
That grip filler that is on there is for a S&W J frame for like a 36 or model 60.
I had to take a Dremel tool and reshape it to fit the Rossi frame.
Then I glass bedded the grip piece so it molded exactly to the frame shape.
I just used JB weld and a release agent
Last edited by LAGS; 09-01-2023 at 10:54 PM.
Oi, I knew I forgot something. But it is a great day - today was wife's last day of chemo! And yes that is a Tyler t-Grip Adapter for a Smith J frame. It makes the gun very shootable with the original grips on it. Withoutit, the original magna style grips are really hard to use. I have no idea why they thought those grips were the best thing back all those years ago.
Wishing your wife all the best.
I have an aluminum Tyler grip adapter that I picked up somewhere on a S&W Model 65. Turns out it is supposed to be for a J Frame, but it works.
Those grip adapters do a wonderful job of making revolvers with service style grips actually shootable, and they don't hurt the concealability while doing it. The only problem is finding them these days, so I have resorted to making my own.
A few hours will turn a small chunk of walnut or (most any wood) into something that will work. I use a bit of flattened 12 ga copper wire for the retainer that goes under the grip panels, and also glass bed it to the frame.
Robert
Bob got field tested today. With the bobbed hammer and extra power spring everything worked perfectly. With that slicked up hammer it was greased lightning out of the pocket, was really surprised how fast the draw actually was! Bob's a keeper!
I am glad that these minor modifications make the pistol fit your situations and needs better.
This is a simple fix that can be done in less expensive guns to adapt them to your liking.
On the filler I modified.
I just left the copper strips on the part that came installed.
They just are flat against the frame and the filler is held in place by the wood grips.
I just took the filler and put Prussian Blue on it and saw where it was touching the frame.
Then ground off the high spots so the filler moved in the direction I wanted to go to make it fit better.
When the grinding was done.
I put release agent on the frame .
Then coated the filler part with JB Weld and installed it on the frame.
When the epoxy dried, I took it apart and ground off any extra epoxy so the filler fit perfectly.
Armoredman has his pistol back.
He might be able to take some pictures and post them when he can.
I still haven't figured out how to post pictures here, but will try a written description.
If you look at a Tyler grip adapter, the copper retaining strap is held to the aluminum main body with a rivet. This won't work with wood, so I bent a U shape about 1/8" in a piece of flattened copper wire and epoxied it into a recess in the wood. Then after that is cured, I glas bed it to the revolver's frame with grip panels installed.
Don't forget the release agent.
Hope this helps.
In reality, if you glasbed the adapter to the frame; I think double sided carpet tape would work to hold it in place. It isn't really a high stress area.
Robert
LAGS and MK42gunner,
photos would have been welcome, but just to spare you both the overall, excellent and comprehensive written description.
Thank you for the time and attention dedicated to your replies !_
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
Sorry, not at home right now, but I will try to get some pictures up when I am off, soon.
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
It's no trouble at all, and thank you very much, sir.
Edit to add, maybe some day we can visit your fine and historic city.
So, I finally got a day off, and here we go!
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Sorry, cell phone camera, but I hope those help!
Thank you for the pictures.
I hope people can see how it attaches to the frame by the grips pinching down on the strip of copper.
I have built many grips where that filler was part of each grip.
In some cases it did make the grip a little rounder and fatter.
But I have big hands.
So it actually was a better feel in my hand.
Not quite as concealable in some cases.
But worked great on most models of pistols
[QUOTE=armoredman;5619671]So, I finally got a day off, and here we go!
... but I hope those help![/QUOTE/]
...sir, you can bet it helps: thank you very much !
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
Those copper strips are less than .010" thick.
They don't make a hump under the grip that you will notice.
ok_ thank you!
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |