Hammer "bob"

[Battis]

I just watched a Larry Potterfield (Midway) video on how to "bob" a hammer. Looks easy enough. But, someone posted this in the comment section under the video:
"Larry, you forgot to stone the single action notch on the hammer. Once you bob a hammer you lose the ability to lower the hammer safely back. That's why if you bob the hammer you should render it DAO."

Makes sense...right?

[LAGS]

Removing the single action ability is a very good idea if you Bob the hammer.
I have done pistols both ways.
On pistols that still have a single action notch are harder to cock.
But if you can cock the hammer.
You should be able to lower it also.
Yes.
It is not going to be "As Safe " as it was originally.
But a lot of pistols can still work well in single action.
I do have a friend that is considering having his hammer Bobbed on a .38.
He hasn't decided yet.
But the hammer does hang up on his shirt when he has to carry it concealed , which he does almost constantly because of where he works.

[BK7saum]

The single action notch is engaged when the hammer travels further rearward than the release point in double action. There really should not be an instance where you are engaging the single action notch when the revolver is used in a traditional double action mode, therefore you shojld not need to "let the hammer down"

[Battis]

I have a S&W Airweight .38 that I have considered bobbing the hammer (snag issue. Rare, but it does happen). The gun isn't worth much in a trade or sale but it is a good carry gun. I'm at the pondering point.
What about light hammer strikes?
Then, is there a legality aspect?

[HWooldridge]

Depending on the model, I've seen the hammer spur bent downward (heat with an OA torch), so it doesn't hook in clothing. Just needs enough clearance to not make contact with the grip frame.

[LAGS]

On a couple of pistols that I "Bobbed" the hammer.
I had to install a heavier hammer mainspring.
Lightening up the hammer did reduce the dents in the primers.
The heavier mainspring increases the trigger pull on the DAO models.
But that was safer and didn't effect accuracy on a self defense pistol.
Also.
Check your firing pin protrusion.
Firing pins with minimum protrusion can cause misfires when you Bob the hammer.

[Battis]

It was an idea that seemed good at first but the more it percolates in my head, not so much. I have a Sneaky Pete holster that I should use more - it'll solve the snagging problem. My daughter has a Ruger with a shrouded hammer which makes sense.

[LAGS]

@Battis.
Bobbing the hammer is a great idea if needed.
But like you said.
It is more than just cutting off the hammer spur.
But the other things that I mentioned are things that you need to check anyway if you carry a pistol for self defense.
You want to have a Very Reliable pistol for your self defense.
I recently had to replace a hammer nose / firing pin on a Rossi 885 that was at minimum protrusion.
The gun every so once in a while misfired doing double action shooting.
That is caused because a hammer does not draw back as far on double action over single action.
That can cause lighter strikes on the primer sometimes.
Now that pistol fires more reliable.
I also installed a little heavier mainspring and it didn't make the trigger pull that much heavier.

[Froogal]

I have a S&W Airweight .38 that I have considered bobbing the hammer (snag issue. Rare, but it does happen). The gun isn't worth much in a trade or sale but it is a good carry gun. I'm at the pondering point.
What about light hammer strikes?
Then, is there a legality aspect?

I have that same Airweight .38 special. Came from the factory with a bobbed hammer. In fact, no part of the hammer is even visible. It is ALL inside. Also have a Ruger snubby in .357, with the bobbed hammer, except what remains of the hammer IS visible. Just can't get a hold on any of it. I'm not really sure that I like either one because of the bobbed hammers, but for occasional use I can live with them.

[stubshaft]

I've bobbed the hammer on a couple of my snubbies. I usually install a stronger mainspring and file grooves on the top of the hammer so that I can lower the hammer safely.

[pietro]

.

FWIW:

I've often found that stoning/smoothing the issue hammer top edges (both sides) and all around the top/sides/back of the spur can avoid snagging clothing during a draw.

For those who want to shoot a bobber SA, as noted above, I would definitely recommend filing a few cross grooves across the top of the bobbed hammer to give thumb purchase when manually cocking to SA mode, or when lowering the hammer.


I've bobbed several different DA revolvers over the past 55-odd years, and there was no effect on hammer strike/ignition.

.

[rkrcpa]

I have a couple of revolvers with bobbed hammers. Both of them I had converted to DAO. In each case it was done partially because I don't intend to fire either one single action, but also to eliminate the risk that someone would cock the hammer and then have an accident when lowering it.

[armoredman]

Only hammer bobbed revolver I have owned yet was a Taurus 85CH. It worked quite well, but it went to a young lady and her husband who lost everything in a fire years ago.

[centershot]

I ground the hammer spur off my old S&W M36 years ago, never had a problem with misfires, even with CCI primers. It wasn't difficult to use it single-action either, but you wanted to be sure to point it in a safe direction when you lowered the hammer manually. For the most part I treated it as a DAO and in very short time the action smoothed up nicely!

[hoodat]

Everyone with a SA/DA revolver should realize that if you want to dramatically improve your handgun accuracy, STOP SHOOTING SINGLE ACTION MODE!

When you discipline yourself to become proficient with your double action trigger, you learn total handgun control - grip, trigger, sight, -- it's a sure way to overcome trigger flinch. And you will be amazed to find that your DA shooting will soon be as accurate as you SA shooting. jd

[LAGS]

This week I plan on "Bobbing " the hammer on a Rossi 885 .38 5 shot.
I will retain the single and double action modes for right now.
I can always delete the single action mode later if I want.
I also have a S&W Victory 38/200 that has a .38 SPL cylinder also.
I have a spare hammer that I am thinking about Bobbing and deleting the single action mode.
I had a Enfield Mk2 that was issued with a Bobbed hammer and only DAO mode.
It was fun to shoot with the 38/200 rounds.

[Battis]

I have an Enfield MK2 that I completely forgot about until I read your post. It has a bobbed hammer, and, from what I understand, they were called the "Tanker" model. Apparently, tank crews liked bobbed hammers due to the cramped space inside. I shot the 200 gr bullets, and some lighter 158 gr bullets. Gotta pull that gun out of the safe.

[LAGS]

I like the 38/200 round.
I also shoot the 38 S&W out of the Victory model like I did with the Enfield Mk 2.
I picked up a .38 SPL cylinder from a US model.
I shoot .38 SPL rounds out of the pistol and didn't modify the original 38/200 cylinder.
The bore is a little larger on the 38/200 model.
But it shoots .38 SPL ammo pretty good , especially if I shoot Powder Coated lead Boolits that are sized a little larger.
Bobbing the extra hammer that I have for that model will put it into that "Tanker " version of British pistols.
But I also have another Victory model that is in great shape and in Original condition.

[Baltimoreed]

Bobbed a few and didn’t do anything else to them.

[Daekar]

There is no scenario where I can imagine shooting my Model 60 in single-action, it's just there to get in the way. The double-action pull is so good anyway, I don't know why I would bother. I might do this at some point, or buy a properly-weighted aftermarket hammer that's not going to require a spring change. Best to stay as close to stock as possible.