FREECHEX Gas Check tool

[Tom W.]

I bought a half ton arbor press when I ordered my FreeChex II. I ain't about to mash my fingers with a hammer.... again.

[Tom W.]

BTW.... What is an arbor press supposed to be used for?

[3006guns]

An arbor press is used to press an arbor (actually called a mandrel).........no joke.

When machining say, a pulley on a lathe, it's more efficient to have access to both sides......so an arbor (mandrel) with a very slight taper is pressed tightly into the center hole then placed in the lathe for the work. Imagine a "wheel and axle" where the axle spins between the lathe centers so you can machine the "wheel" to spec. After the work is done the arbor press is used again to push the arbor out from the opposite direction to remove it.

Arbor presses are also used for general shop work for just about anything that needs a "push"......like installing bushings, etc.

[Bob J]

Hi Guys,
Any suggestions on setting up the arbor press? I saw in the video that a steering wheel removal tool was used to locate the Freechex but the tool I looked at in harbor freight didn't look anything like the one in the video....

[Trey45]

I recently received a freechex II tool in 30 caliber. I was considering using an arbor press with it, but opted for a big piece of brass instead. The weight of the brass round stock I'm using is almost heavy enough by itself to cut the aluminum. I went to Lowes yesterday to buy a roll of roof flashing, they had chimney flashing in stacks that was cut in easy to handle rectangles. I believe it's called chimney flashing? It measures .009 and makes perfect gas checks.

[kelbro]

The FreeChexII tool in 44 fits right over the narrow slot on the base of the HF 1-ton press. No fixture required.

Hi Guys,
Any suggestions on setting up the arbor press? I saw in the video that a steering wheel removal tool was used to locate the Freechex but the tool I looked at in harbor freight didn't look anything like the one in the video....

[Tom W.]

Thanks for the reply. All I bought it for was to punch out the checks. I didn't see a need for another "fixture", other than the plate that came with the press.

[Bob J]

Perfect! Thanks!

The FreeChexII tool in 44 fits right over the narrow slot on the base of the HF 1-ton press. No fixture required.

[Ugly Dwarf]

Dale,

Thanks for posting that video. That seems a LOT faster than the hammer method... and a lot less prone to smashing fingers with a hammer.

On the downside, my wife's going to be upset with me for buying an arbor press.

Dwarf

[Dale53]

Dale,

Thanks for posting that video. That seems a LOT faster than the hammer method... and a lot less prone to smashing fingers with a hammer.

Dwarf

Glad to pass information along.

Frankly, that video was the deciding factor for me. I have received my Free Chex II for .44 Caliber and will be making some checks in a couple of days for my recently acquired Lyman 431244 bullets.

I'll compare these with the old Lyman checks I had left from another project on the target...

Dale53

[.30/30 Guy]

I have a Freecheck in .44 caliber. I made some checks out of a pop can and fired them in my .44 mag. I found about half of the checks 10 feet in front of me. Need to use super glue to keep the thin material ones on your boolit.

[Dale53]

I have checked the local building supply dealers and found a variety of materials that should be suitable for Free Chex's at Home Depot Supply:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...atalogId=10053

I got a couple of samples of material with my Free Chex II tool and will try them and see which works best with my bullets (I'm betting on the .009" thickness from Home Depot will be best) before I buy. However, those prices at Home Depot looks like we can make lots of gas checks for small change.

Dale53

[Charlie Sometimes]

Yep, they will save lots of money.

I doubt if the check falling off after it's out of the barrel matters.
It protects the bullet from gas cutting at jacked up velocities, and keeps the barrel from leading, but really isn't needed after that.
As long as accuracy isn't effected- who cares.

[BCall]

I have to say, I bought a Freechex in 6mm when I had trouble finding 6mm gas checks. I was less than impressed. The original required that you punch out the disk with a separate punch, then put it on top of a die and form it with a pin type punch. The problem was there was no precise way to center the forming pin on the disk. I got a bunch of wasted lopsided gas checks, and gave up on it.

But after seeing the video about making them with the Freechex 2, I decided to try again when I saw a 22 version of the Freechex 2 was listed. I bought it not hoping for much. After receiving it this week, it makes excellent checks with the aluminum he sent with the tool. It is .008-.009 roof flashing I think, and the checks I get out of it are darn near perfect. Here is a pic of the last 5 I punched out. I will probably get more of them now. I probably won't use them all of the time, but they will be nice to have if I need them. The checks fit most of my boolits nicely and work perfectly when sized. I have not yet had a chance to shoot them, but I expect good results. They look excellent. Thanks, Billy

[qajaq59]

I have to say those look really good.
However has anyone been shooting enough of them in their rifles to know how they effect accuracy when compared to the Hornady's?

[Charlie Sometimes]

Nice work, Billy! Those look really good- try that AL lithe plate, too. It really cuts and swages good.

I'm still in various testing phases on the shooting side- so not much extra to report yet.
Getting ready for winter, hunting seasons, and working on college courses are keeping me busy, too.

Someone told me Mr. Darnall has raised his prices on the Freechexs.
I was considering getting a 6mm and 375 Freechex II next.

I checked E-Bay- they are still selling for 41.95 each. No price increase.

[Ricochet]

One thing that's kept me from trying these is that I have a lot of loads that put the crimped-on Hornady style checks below the bottom of the case neck. I've never had one fail to come out with the boolit when I've had to pull one. OTOH, I've often wished I could use as-cast unsized boolits with a gas check. It can be done to crimp on the Hornady styles with a Lee Factory Crimp die of appropriate diameter, holding the boolit in the top so the gas check is cripmed but the rest of the boolit is unsized, but it's a bit of a PITA. These slip-on checks will allow that. I haven't yet heard what the finished outside diameters of the checks are in the various calibers, whether they're made a bit oversized to allow/require sizing, whether the .30s are appropriately sized for "Fat Thirties" or just the .308s, if they work with the somewhat oversize diameters we often use in other calibers, etc. Probably depends on the material and thickness used.

[StarMetal]

One thing that's kept me from trying these is that I have a lot of loads that put the crimped-on Hornady style checks below the bottom of the case neck. I've never had one fail to come out with the boolit when I've had to pull one. OTOH, I've often wished I could use as-cast unsized boolits with a gas check. It can be done to crimp on the Hornady styles with a Lee Factory Crimp die of appropriate diameter, holding the boolit in the top so the gas check is cripmed but the rest of the boolit is unsized, but it's a bit of a PITA. These slip-on checks will allow that. I haven't yet heard what the finished outside diameters of the checks are in the various calibers, whether they're made a bit oversized to allow/require sizing, whether the .30s are appropriately sized for "Fat Thirties" or just the .308s, if they work with the somewhat oversize diameters we often use in other calibers, etc.

John,

I make my own gas check making tools. So far I have them for 22, 6.5, 7mm, 30, and 45. I use aluminum flashing from the hardware store for 22's up to 6.5, and thicker aluminum for 7 up to 30, and flashing again for the 45's that take a thin check. With that said my target backstop, which is railroad ties stacked to form a big letter C, filled with dirt, and one inch oak front. I have recovered many bullets with my checks still on them in all those calibers. I think the reason may be as the cup is formed in the forming tool the bottom of course is very true and clean, but the lip will get wrinkles or serrations if you on it and I believe these crimp onto the bullet. Another member said those serrations help clean/wipe lead out of the bore better.

Joe

[Ricochet]

Good point about the folds in the mouth of the check, which can be seen in the pics in this thread. May take the place of the crimp to a good extent.

[StarMetal]

Good point about the folds in the mouth of the check, which can be seen in the pics in this thread. May take the place of the crimp to a good extent.

I was quite shocked that I was seeing checks still on my bullets on the other size of that oak front. Especially with the HV 22's because they busted up pretty good in the dirt.

Joe