WidenersSnyders JerkyMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2
Load DataRepackboxTitan ReloadingLee Precision
Reloading Everything Inline Fabrication
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: Lube after PC, before sizing??

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,389
    I powder coat shortly after casting. I size shortly after powder coating. I increased my bake time to 30 minutes after I hit 400degF and don't have to use spray on case lube (9 parts alcohol to 1 of Lanolin) to size.

  2. #22
    Boolit Mold Well_Read_Redneck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2023
    Posts
    1
    Anyone else try the "air fry" setting on a toaster oven to bake your coating on? I've found that 12 minutes at 390° works wonders with Hi-Tek coating.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    firefly1957's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Harrison Michigan
    Posts
    2,787
    I have yet to use the shake and bake method when I do use a electrostatic powder spray gun if I need to move a bullet I use tweezers on the bullet nose.

    Most of my bullets are spray painted with Enamel paint then baked it works well and is a thinner coating .
    When I think back on all the **** I learned in high school it's a wonder I can think at all ! And then my lack of education hasn't hurt me none I can read the writing on the wall.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    4,558
    Quote Originally Posted by Well_Read_Redneck View Post
    Anyone else try the "air fry" setting on a toaster oven to bake your coating on? I've found that 12 minutes at 390° works wonders with Hi-Tek coating.
    The 'air fry' setting on a toaster oven is just a higher flow convection oven.

    I still don't understand why people insist on trying to cook for less time than the powder mfg recommends? What's a few more minutes once they are in the oven?

  5. #25
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    61
    I stand up all the pc'd bullets and then I use a small artist brush to lightly touch up the bullet where I can see the lead showing through. Works very well for 99 percent of the bullets. The 1 percent usually have oil or a contaminant on the lead bullet surface and then the brush technique does not work.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check