Graphite Dry Lubricant Spray for Mold Release Agent

[fjrdoc]

I thought that I would report on the forum my observations on using PB Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant on my boolit molds as a release agent.
I had a couple rifle boolit molds (primarily hollow point molds for 8mm, 9mm and 9.5 mm Mannlicher) that didn't seem to drop boolits readily despite cleaning and prepping as usual. 2 molds are aluminum and one brass. I read on a manufacturer's web page about using a graphite pencil to coat the hollow point pin as a release agent. I tried this but still had problems with sticking.
I had an aerosol can of PB Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant in my cabinet so I decided to give a mold a generous spraying in the cavities as well as on the pins. I figured that I could always wash the residue off with acetone if my experiment was a failure.
I was pleasantly surprised with the outcome! Boolits dropped nicely even with the hollow point pins. I even got brave with a new mold and decided to give it a try from the start.......same outcome.
This product can be purchased at most automotive parts stores or even big box hardwares stores such as Lowes and Home Depot.
I did a quick search on the forum and didn't see much info about using this product. Thought that I would pass my experience along.

[justindad]

That’s good to know. Thanks for the report!

[1Hawkeye]

I use the same product with good results and it's half the price of the spray mold release from midway.

[gwpercle]

You can use any of the "Dry" Spray Lubricants as a mould release agent .
The one I first read about here was Liquid Wrench Dry Lube ... it comes as a spray and a liquid (or it did come as a liquid) I apply the liquid to moulds with a Q-Tip , less waste . It doesn't contaminate , fights rust on steel moulds and sprue plates and doesn't need to be removed ...and best of all ... no build up !
The Dry Lubes are better than the Midway Mould release ... just because they don't form a thick build up . I've never tried the Blaster Graphite Dry Lube so don't know about buildup ... but if you see a buildup forming remove it before it gets too thick to cause problems .
That Midway stuff was a bear to get off my moulds ! Acetone and steel wool !
Gary

[david s]

I made the mistake of trying the Midway spray a number of years ago. I've been gun shy of spray release lubes ever since. Not only did I not like the primary results of the spray lube getting the mould cleaned afterwards was more than a little trouble. I'll be following your thread to see what the consensus ends up being. Another option is always of interest.

[T.J.Smith]

BG products make a product called Brake Quite. It's made for squeaking brake pads. I coat my molds
with this stuff & nothing will stick to the cavity.

[MT Gianni]

I tried a spray 30 years ago when I was starting out and found it was reducing diameter. I decided that stick matches were cheap.

[Ken 45LC]

My experience was much like David’s, I tried the Midway spray many years before I found this site, and it caused me nothing but grief. I think it actually made bullet release worse. And then it was very difficult to remove from the mold. Been apprehensive to try anything else like it.

[elmacgyver0]

I found that smoking the mold with a paraffin candle works the best, for me anyway.

[gwpercle]

I still like the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube L512 best ... it leaves no residue or build up .
L512 still comes in a 4 oz. liquid for Q-Tip application and an 11 oz. Spray Can .

If you have a can of the Midway Drop-Out mould release , the black stuff , use it to spray the inside walls of your melting pot , inside your ladles or dippers or ingot moulds ... lead wont cling to those areas and you wont muck up a good boolit casting mould with the stuff .

Gary

[reedap1]

Following this thread,

For those casters using various forms of a mold release and using the powder coating process...have you observed any issues of powder coat not adhering to the bullets if you do this operation... Do you post-process the bullets (for example solvent wash) after casting and before powder coating?

Real-life experience is always the best, thanks to everyone for your input,

Paul

[T.J.Smith]

No problem at all

[steveu]

You can use any of the "Dry" Spray Lubricants as a mould release agent .
The one I first read about here was Liquid Wrench Dry Lube ... it comes as a spray and a liquid (or it did come as a liquid) I apply the liquid to moulds with a Q-Tip , less waste . It doesn't contaminate , fights rust on steel moulds and sprue plates and doesn't need to be removed ...and best of all ... no build up !
The Dry Lubes are better than the Midway Mould release ... just because they don't form a thick build up . I've never tried the Blaster Graphite Dry Lube so don't know about buildup ... but if you see a buildup forming remove it before it gets too thick to cause problems .
That Midway stuff was a bear to get off my moulds ! Acetone and steel wool !
Gary

Per your advice, I picked up a 4oz bottle on fleabay for $6 delivered. Hope to try it out next week. I also used some dry moly spray on the outside of the ladel to keep the clean. Works well, need to give it a good scrubbing and spray the inside.

Cheers,
Steve

[gwpercle]

Per your advice, I picked up a 4oz bottle on fleabay for $6 delivered. Hope to try it out next week. I also used some dry moly spray on the outside of the ladel to keep the clean. Works well, need to give it a good scrubbing and spray the inside.

Cheers,
Steve

I find using a Q-Tip to apply the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube works best , a bottle of the Liquid will go a L-O-N-G way . I love how it doesn't contaminate (cause wrinkles) in the cavities and can be left in cavities when stored . Coat top and bottom of sprue plate too ... no rust .
I'm glad they still make the liquid ...that and a Q-Tip is best way to apply inside mould and sprue plate. Thanks for heads up .

I've never tried Dry Moly Spray ... I will keep an eye out ... my can of Midway Drop Out , used for spraying pot sides and ladle , is getting low and I don't want any more Drop Out ... will go with the Dry Moly Spray . I like spraying the Ladle with something to keep the build up off and spraying the pot sides ...cuts down on cleaning time and increases casting time .

ThanksGary

[delftshooter]

Ive never done casting, but im going to have to start this year..

SO this spray lube stuff actually works? SO that i can avoid the endless match/butane lighter/torch process that LEE promises with their molds?

[Maven]

NAPA also sells a spray can of alcohol based graphite spray: works well enough, but as noted above, may decrease CB diameter. OTOH, wooden matches are quite inexpensive and also do the same job without decreasing CB diameter.

[delftshooter]

NAPA also sells a spray can of alcohol based graphite spray: works well enough, but as noted above, may decrease CB diameter. OTOH, wooden matches are quite inexpensive and also do the same job without decreasing CB diameter.

and how many matches per bullet cavity half are we talking about? matches are hard to find where i live and for some reason, the good foreign made ones are really hard to find.

those green tipped matches, normally need to hit 3 at a time to get a single one to light up.

[steveu]

I used the liquid wrench liquid lube and. It is teflon. It worked ok. I used it on the outside of the moulds. I am following Larry Gibson’s advice on cleaning moulds and I have not had to use any on the cavities yet.

[gwpercle]

I used the liquid wrench liquid lube and. It is teflon. It worked ok. I used it on the outside of the moulds. I am following Larry Gibson’s advice on cleaning moulds and I have not had to use any on the cavities yet.

I prefer to use the Liquid Wrench DRY lube #L512 ... it works as a mould release and protects the outside during storage . It's not oily , greasy or messy ...dry Teflon film wipes right off and it doesn't need to be removed from cavities when you start casting with that mould again .
Liquid Wrench Dry Lube #L512 is the correct stuff .
Gary