Hi-Lux Scopes

[marlinman93]

Who did the scope repair???

I have a friend who also collects old scopes, and is self taught to repair them. We both do some repairs to our scopes, but he's taken it to another level above my skills. I can take them apart and clean them, and replace crosshairs. But he's figured out how to change magnification, and turn down diameters of lens if needed also. But neither of us do repairs for others anymore.

[Griff]

Picked up the rifle from the gunsmith about 12 days ago... but it's been so hot here I haven't gotten out to the range to get it all sighted in. We modified the Hi-Lux rear mount so it mounts in the factory D&T holes in the barrel between the rear sight dovetail & receiver.


I also ordered the FEASET (Fine Elevation Adjustment Set) from Hi-Lux and installed it. It changes the rear mount from a very simple loosen screw and slide scope up & down for elevation, to a screw type venier setup. I think it'll be a very good modification. I'll find out at the range tomorrow.

Hopefully, tomorrow I can get it sighted back in out to 200 yards.

[M-Tecs]

Man, those MVA mounts are more'n the scope... Guess I'll know after it gets here if I "need" 'em!

There is a reason most of the serious competitors use them.

[Griff]

There is a reason most of the serious competitors use them.

Since "serious" competitor precludes having fun, IMO, this is a relatively short range setup... or deer hunting, I'll go with this until proven incapable. The Sharps is for more serious work/play!

[snipin101]

I think it looks great. I have the fine adjustment kit put on mine too. It does make it a lot easier to dial in distance from one time to another. Serious competitors might use nicer mounts, me on the other hand just use my rifle for fun. But, I wouldn't hesitate to shoot my gun in competition. I have seen some men get waxed with much cheaper equipment. It really comes down to how much you know your rifle and time behind the trigger.

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk

[marlinman93]

I have a set of these mounts I put on an old Tasco full length scope a friend rebuilt and changed magnification on for me. I have it on my Hepburn in .45-70, and the biggest issue is changing direction in elevation. It's OK just raising elevation, but it has enough lash in the lead screw that when you start to lower elevation it needs to take up the slack in the threads before it starts to move. So have to allow for this when changing direction, and don't exppect it to be dead accurate doing so.

[Griff]

Vall, I don't know if yours does, but mine has a set screw in the knob at the top of the venier screw, that you can loosen and adjust the knob to take up the lash. I haven't done that on mine, but my next range visit, it's 1st on my list of things to do.

[marlinman93]

Vall, I don't know if yours does, but mine has a set screw in the knob at the top of the venier screw, that you can loosen and adjust the knob to take up the lash. I haven't done that on mine, but my next range visit, it's 1st on my list of things to do.

I'll have to look, as I honestly don't recall seeing one? But my mounts are over a decade old, and might not be the same as what's made today?

[Bent Ramrod]

If the mount had a vernier scale on the frame’s side somewhere, it would be much less dependent on the backlash in the threads to get reproducible settings. In principle, you could just use the old loosen-slide to setting-tighten setup, as long as the marks lined up properly.

I don’t see one on the picture; I’m surprised they wouldn’t put one on their special precision setup.

But you really only need the maximum W&E reproducibility in target shooting, where you can’t waste shots confirming a setting adjustment. (It’s often plenty chaotic enough, even with precision mount adjustments.) For normal “fun shooting,” cut-and-try, or set-and-forget generally works fine.

[marlinman93]

If the mount had a vernier scale on the frame’s side somewhere, it would be much less dependent on the backlash in the threads to get reproducible settings. In principle, you could just use the old loosen-slide to setting-tighten setup, as long as the marks lined up properly.

I don’t see one on the picture; I’m surprised they wouldn’t put one on their special precision setup.

But you really only need the maximum W&E reproducibility in target shooting, where you can’t waste shots confirming a setting adjustment. (It’s often plenty chaotic enough, even with precision mount adjustments.) For normal “fun shooting,” cut-and-try, or set-and-forget generally works fine.

One would think this is true, until you start trying to make small adjustments for say 500-1000 yds., and then marks don't do you much good as they just can't be close enough for very minute adjustments at those longer distances. And as I mentioned, if you change direction, and there's any play in the lead screw, you can't count turns as it might turn a little before it begins to move.

[Griff]

Mine has graduations on the back of the mount and the part that slides up and down to count incremental changes and note exact settings for a particular load and distance. Interestingly, the windage marks are on the front of the mount.

[Griff]

Finally remembered where I stored first group picture. 50 yards.


Then moved to the 100 yard range to center elevation and finally windage.


This bottom one was using the Longshot target camera system. Very handy tool.