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Thread: Bolt Jewling

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Bolt Jewling

    I tried a Craterex rod process as recommended by Potterfield of Brownells, for bolt jewling, I am not impressed on a Mauser bolt. I normally use a small wire bush with two 0 rings on a steel rod with valve grinding compound, the steel rod does not flex. Too many humps, holes and cuts on a Mauser bolt for the wet noodle Craterex rod tip.
    I note that Potterfield did a 700 bolt body, which is just an even surface round steel tube. If you only have a even surface the Craterex will do fine. Well learned a new lesson.
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    Boolit Grand Master WILCO's Avatar
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    I'd like to see a pic of the work done.
    Sometimes we're too much of our own critic.
    I remember some guys using a pencil eraser, on a chucked up #2.
    "Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson

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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I've only used the wire brushes, with O-rings and maybe tried it with heat shrink tubing (not sure on that, it has been a few decades).

    I did a few Mauser bolts and extractors, for the extractors I used a board with a wood screw that fit the slot as a holding device. Worked out well.

    I also did a few 1911 chamber areas, it does give a different look.

    Robert

  4. #4
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    I've done Cratex, but that produced sloppy jewels. Lapping compound with a wooden dowel produced the best jewels, but I did them on a mill so they were Spaced Correctly, Which makes all the difference .

    Perfectly strait lines with perfectly split Jewels on two axis'. The look is pretty hard to beat. Kind of funny that the original use was to deburr flat parts with cuts made in them with out breaking the sharp edges..

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    I used to do a combination. I had a piece of steel tubing that was reamed to be a snug fit on the cratex rod. I would chuck up on that in the mill, with only a little - maybe .100" sticking out. And use valve grinding paste on the cratex. As it wore I could extend it some. Did it that way for years, and it works great. Lots of ways to skin that cat!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    i've jeweled probably a few dozen bolts. some mausers. always used the cratex. you said that it was a wet noodle. appears that you do not have the correct holder. only 1/4 to 3/8 should be protruding out. my holder came from my father. he had a friend make it. the entire cratex piece ,about 1-3/4 inches long goes into the holder with a collar on the threaded holder pushes the cratex out as needed. i got praise for the jeweling i did; so it must have been ok

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    405grain's Avatar
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    I've used a small wire brush and heat shrink tubing to swirl fine grit lapping compound on Mauser bolts & extractors. It gives them a fancy look. I use an X & Y table on a drill press to keep the pattern straight, and hold the bolt in the vise with some small homemade wooden V blocks. I just rotate the bolt body in the fixture for each row of swirls. I start the pattern on each side of the bolt guide ridge so that everything looks even on the finished bolt. A butterknife bolt handle and a jeweled bolt really makes a rifle look nice.

  8. #8
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    Hmmm, you don't use the Craytex abrasive stick by itself. It goes into a holder, you can adjust how much of the abrasive sticks out of the holder, like Porthos said. Mine is brass, with a threaded plug that pushes the stick out. I can't remember where I bought mine, Brownells or MidwayUSA.
    But it chucks into the drill press or whatever you have. Dan

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by WILCO View Post
    I'd like to see a pic of the work done.
    Sometimes we're too much of our own critic.
    I remember some guys using a pencil eraser, on a chucked up #2.
    This discussion brings back memories. In the mid 70's, a retired gunsmith took a liking to me. He allowed me to use his closed gunshop to build my first rifle. He stated, "I will show you the right way to do it and you can do it your way the next time". For bolt jeweling, he had a drill press holder for a replaceable pencil eraser. Used polishing grit spread on a motor oiled bolt. It gave a very smooth polish with the finer grits. The challenge was not to put too much pressure on the eraser. When he passed away, I bought the grits, eraser holder, polishing jig and other equipment. Still have and use the polishing kit.

    His cold bluing solution was an Aqua Regia solution that was reduced with rusty nails until it stopped foaming. It gave a very dark, even bluing.

    I still miss that "old man".

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
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