Do you use a tubing cutter to shorten cases?

[Abert Rim]

I need to shorten 2.10 inch .50 Alaskan cases to 1.73 inches for 12,7X44R Swedish.
I hate trimming cases more than any aspect of handloading. I have seen recommendations to use a tubing cutter for the main trim, then finish on one of the rotary case trimmers (I have the Hornady).
Which tubing cutter do you use? (I have one of the crummy little Harbor Freight cutoff saws and it has never given me any satisfaction.)

[BrassMagnet]

A file trim die and a jeweler's hack saw should cut them close enough to finish with a normal case trimmer.
Check CH4D for the file trim die.

[MUSTANG]

Yes; I use a tubing cutter for making 7.7x58 Arisaka brass (Some times referred to as 7.7 Japanese) from 30-06 Brass. I use the Ridgid 3/16 in. to 15/16 in. 104 Close Quarters Copper, Aluminum, Brass, and Plastic Tubing Cutter. These as well as similar are available at Home Depot.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-3...2985/100021967

Lowes and Ace Hardware carry similar.

The final cut to length is done by a Lee Cartridge specific trimmer (i.e. 7.7 x 58, or....) - or a Lyman case trimmer.

I have also used a mini-chop saw to cut brass cases being reformed to other cartridge cases - but; I prefer a mini tubing cutter when feasible.

[36g]

Depending on volume of cases to convert...I've used one of these to gross cut
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then a Frankfort Arsenal case trimmer for the final prep.

[Abert Rim]

Mustang, I was looking at the very tool. The one I have has been used to cut tubing and pvc in cold, muddy conditions and is so dull it just wanders and crimps the brass.

[MUSTANG]

Mustang, I was looking at the very tool. The one I have has been used to cut tubing and pvc in cold, muddy conditions and is so dull it just wanders and crimps the brass.

1. For the 7.7x58 this tool works fine; because the length of the neck area after sizing a 30-06 case down in the 7.7x58 die is very long. The tool is fully supported with the roller cutter blade at 90 degrees to the long straight neck section. There is NO TAPER on the neck section after sizing the 30-06 case in the 7.7x58 die.

2. I use the same tool to cut down .223 cases for making Jackets to swage .308 and .312 (.303 british ball) bullets from. The problem with the use of this tubing cutter tool is that the .223 case is tapered.

To cut the .223 case to length for jacket production in swaging; the cutter is turned 180 degrees one direction (say clock wise); reverse to starting position and then turn 180 degrees the other direction counter clock wise). Repeat until the case is cut through. This process is required because of the taper on the .223 case - If one turned the cutter in a single continual direction; the cutter would SPIRAL up or down the case depending on orientation and turn direction because of the taper of the case.

3. You may be experiencing the cutter spiral/walk on the .50 Alaskan case because it is tapered with the case wall adjacent to the base being ~.548 inches - but the neck area being ~ .536 inches. I believe this slight taper would cause the tool to spiral/walk unless the cut is made as I described in #2 above (180 degree cut clockwise - back to start - then 180 degree counter clockwise cut) to form a circle from incremental 1/2 cuts each direction

[RustyReel]

I use a dremel with a cut off wheel then trim normally. only done 40. They last a long time.

[Mk42gunner]

I have used a tubing cutter like Mustang showed to trim the neck when making 7.65 Argentine Mauser from .30-06, after pushing the shoulder back. Final trim was done with a Lee trimmer.

With any style of tubing cutter, you need to have a straight section or the tool will walk when being turned. It will also walk if you try to tighten it too much. I've used a tubing cutter more than I like to think about, I used to be a plumber and an AC&R tech/ appliance repairman.

Good luck

Robert

[Bent Ramrod]

I use one of those little “C” shaped cutters with the round blade that tightens with a hand screw. Started with a cheapie from Harbor Freight or somewhere, but lent it to someone who trashed it. They bought me a nice expensive one to replace it. It still works fine.

Most common use is shortening neck cracked .25-20 SS cases to make .32 Long or Long Rifle cases. It is a little tricky with a tapered or bottlenecked case. I tighten the screw just enough to make the cutter start a very shallow groove, almost a line, and carefully turn back and forth to make sure the groove goes all the way around the case and meets. Once the groove is established, the cutter can be turned in more and more deeply until the groove is a cut, and then the extra brass parts off.

I usually allow some extra length in case the cutter does “walk” at first, and I have to reset to straighten the groove out. I then open the crimp the cutter leaves on the case mouth so it fits on my trimmer pilot, and finish the job as usual.

I don’t like trimming cases either. Cutting off those little cylinders saves a lot of work and trimmer cutter wear.

[Baltimoreed]

I use a lee case trim tool, chuck the case holder in my mini mill/ or press, put the cutter in a vice clamped to the table. Turn it on and let the cutter do the work and clean up with a fine file. Touch it with a deburr inside and out and done.

[Soundguy]

i use a tubing cutter and dowel rod or cork to keep from crushing.. after that it goes on my rcbs lathe style trimmer.

[RustyReel]

I use a lee case trim tool, chuck the case holder in my mini mill/ or press, put the cutter in a vice clamped to the table. Turn it on and let the cutter do the work and clean up with a fine file. Touch it with a deburr inside and out and done.

That would be great if Lee made one for the 12.7x44R.

[Omega]

The Harbor Freight chop saw is all I use to cut brass when it needs more than a slight trim. I got it to convert 5.56 cases to 300BLK, but it's so fast and easy to setup for just about any cutting job that I have used it for other cases and arrow shafts as well.

[MUSTANG]

I have the same saw as above. It's sitting in the box because of two (for me) undesirable factors:

(1) When the saw cuts through a brass case; there is an extended flap on one side of the case most/end left. I found it a pain to "True the Mouth" using a Lee style trimmer or Lyman Trimmer for the final trim because of that significantly out of round flap.

(2) The cutter blades are of poor quality. There was a series of exchanges and special group orders for this (and equivalent/same saw from other sources than HF) saw on the Cast Boolits site.

As I said; I have the saw boxed up and rarely use it for brass anymore.

[Omega]

I have the same saw as above. It's sitting in the box because of two (for me) undesirable factors:

(1) When the saw cuts through a brass case; there is an extended flap on one side of the case most/end left. I found it a pain to "True the Mouth" using a Lee style trimmer or Lyman Trimmer for the final trim because of that significantly out of round flap.

(2) The cutter blades are of poor quality. There was a series of exchanges and special group orders for this (and equivalent/same saw from other sources than HF) saw on the Cast Boolits site.

As I said; I have the saw boxed up and rarely use it for brass anymore.

I replaced the blade with this one, it does a much better job and leaves a relatively smooth cut.

[MUSTANG]

Comment to Abert Rim: If you go the mini-cup saw route; you will want to consider a Shim to cause the case to remain "Centered" during the cut. The case taper, if the case is rested on the Chop Saw backer/base will result in a skewed mouth on the cut without shimming it.

[pworley1]

A file trim die and a jeweler's hack saw should cut them close enough to finish with a normal case trimmer.
Check CH4D for the file trim die.

This is how I do it.

[Mk42gunner]

I too have one of the terrible little chop saws from Harbor Freight. The very first time I used it, the safety catch broke. Unfortunately I had bought it some time before that and didn't feel right about taking it back.

The trick to getting a straight cut with them is to make a jig that will lock into the vise and hold the case at the length and angle you need. After all that I then ran the used to be .308 cases into the .45 ACP Shot form die and used a file to trim them.

I honestly think the small tubing cutters are a better way to cut off large amounts of brass, as long as the area you need to trim is straight.

Robert

[paul edward]

I have used a plumber's tubing cutter since 1963 to shorten 30/06 brass to make 7.65x53 Argentine, 7x57 Mauser and 7.7x58 Arisaka.
Cut your donor cases one mm longer than final and finish in case trimmer. I have used several different case trimmers but prefer the Wilson.
Plumber's tubing cutters also have other uses around the house and garage.

[imashooter2]

An awful lot of people use the Harbor Freight chop saw with complete satisfaction. I can’t imagine doing a thousand cases with a tubing cutter.