Snyders JerkyMidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingLee Precision
Reloading EverythingRepackboxRotoMetals2Load Data
Wideners Inline Fabrication
Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: Frankford Arsenal flux

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612

    Frankford Arsenal flux

    I bought a lb of Frankford Arsenal flux to try it. I have always used sawdust and beeswax when melting into ingots then beeswax only in Lee pots. I put a small amount of the Frankford in one of my Lee pots and it did some bubbling and there was a small bit of crap came to the top. I’m sure if I would have used beeswax the same would have happened.
    I did notice that the pot and stirring spoon have a weird coating to them now. Is this normal? I keep my pots clean and every few pot fills I empty them, take out valve assembly, use a wire brush on a drill and clean them out as I’m always using different alloys.
    I have some wheel weights and other dirty lead that I’m going to smelt into ingots and will try the Frankford in the cast iron pot I use for smelting.
    I’ve read so many posts about how bad the Frankford or Marvelflux are and then some that it’s the second coming. I just don’t want to make a mess of the Lee pots if it’s not going to work any better than what I’m using.
    I don’t want to hear about all other kinds of flux just how is the Frankford flux working.

  2. #2
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    61
    Works great, forms a dark grey glasslike product that skims off easily. Doesn't smell much. Works fine as does waxes and pine saw dust. It does coat my spoon and dipper but it's not a problem.
    Last edited by BRatigan; 07-06-2023 at 08:43 AM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    NE Kansas
    Posts
    2,435
    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/arc.../t-166808.html

    See the post by runfiverun where he comments that a salt shaker is used to sprinkle the flux on the surface of the melt. (If you get a glass like product, you probably are using too much.) This is the same recommendation that Bill Ferguson made when discussing the use of his flux in blending alloys. With those two as references, you should be able to rely on that information.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by BRatigan View Post
    Works great, forms a dark grey glasslike product that skims off easily. Doesn't smell much. Works fine as does waxes and pine saw dust. It does coat my spoon and dipper but it's not a problem.
    Are you using a Lee pot with this flux?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    pworley1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    3,266
    It worked fine for me, but I still use mostly sawdust.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  6. #6
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
    Are you using a Lee pot with this flux?
    No, I'm using a RCBS Easy Melt dipper pot with Controller.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Communist New Jersey
    Posts
    909
    I use it with a Lee pot and it works fine, like was said, if you use too much it makes a mess. If you really want to get technical when you are using sawdust and wax you are not fluxing, you are reducing, so there is a difference in the processes you are working with.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by BRatigan View Post
    No, I'm using a RCBS Easy Melt dipper pot with Controller.
    That has a stainless pot does it not?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
    I use it with a Lee pot and it works fine, like was said, if you use too much it makes a mess. If you really want to get technical when you are using sawdust and wax you are not fluxing, you are reducing, so there is a difference in the processes you are working with.
    I guess I’ll give it a try in one of my Lee pots when I get some time. Do you use the amount that the instructions say or less? I’m a bit sceptical as I have seen a couple videos of Marvelux being used and it seemed to work but you couldn’t see the pots much with the mess that was stuck to them.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Communist New Jersey
    Posts
    909
    Yes, it is a stainless pot. But 99% of the pots out there now are stainless. The only cast pot I have is my very old SAECO pot which is at least 70 years old. Even if you use too much and it makes a mess you just keep on doing your usual and it will clean up on it's own. Or you can drop in some was and light it off and it will burn up the slime and turn it to powder and you can skim it off. The only problem is that the slime on your tools is hygroscopic and it absorbs moisture very quickly so don't just dunk the tools right in the pot, put them in slowly and let the moisture sizzle off.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    9,298
    When I read what Glen. E. Fryxell had to say about commerical powdered flux in "From Ingot To Target" ... I started using it regularly .
    I don't know why some folks bad mouth it , perhaps they use too much .
    I use just a little less than instructions say , 1/2 teaspoon per 10 lbs. metal .
    I also discovered if you drop in some wood shavings (from pencil sharpener) , a little meltd beeswax on the shavings , add the FA flux (Marvelux) and stirr all with a little wooden stirrer untill only ash is left ... you get your best flux and cleanest metal . Also , two small fluxes works better than one big flux ,,,lots less smoke and you get good clean metal with the 3 part flux .
    The way I see it each flux material , (wood shavings , beeswax and Marvelux) work on different things in the melt and all three do a different job .
    If I could use only one flux it would be Marvelux / Frankford Arsenal Flux .
    When used as directed it does a good job ... overdoing it seems to cause most caster's their problems .
    I've been using it for a good 20 years now , make it a point to Not use too much and have seen no rusting or build up problems in my pots . I like the way it doesn't smoke and flash into fire also ... that's a nice feature (saves the eyebrows)
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612
    Well I used slightly less than what instructions say to use for the amount of lead awhile ago and the Lee pot has what appears to be rust forming. The other two older pots which has only had beeswax and sawdust has no rust.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Communist New Jersey
    Posts
    909
    The newer pots will get rust forming whether you use flux or not. Flux is not an acid. It is just because China uses a cheaper grade of Stainless that what used to be used in the past.

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2021
    Posts
    61
    Quote Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
    That has a stainless pot does it not?
    I believe it does.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
    The newer pots will get rust forming whether you use flux or not. Flux is not an acid. It is just because China uses a cheaper grade of Stainless that what used to be used in the past.
    None of my Lee pots are stainless.

  16. #16
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,878
    Quote Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
    SNIP>>>

    I’ve read so many posts about how bad the Frankford or Marvelflux are and then some that it’s the second coming. I just don’t want to make a mess of the Lee pots if it’s not going to work any better than what I’m using.
    I don’t want to hear about all other kinds of flux just how is the Frankford flux working.
    Quote Originally Posted by Carrier View Post
    Well I used slightly less than what instructions say to use for the amount of lead awhile ago and the Lee pot has what appears to be rust forming. The other two older pots which has only had beeswax and sawdust has no rust.
    Like Rick mentioned, FA's flux is hygroscopic and it absorbs moisture, so any residue left on the Lee pot wall (which is typical), will rust faster than if you used no flux or some other flux that isn't hygroscopic. Now, also mentioned, a Lee pot will eventually rust or patina as it ages and the amount of time will depend on storage (in humid environment). Both of my Lee pots have some minor rust in them...it doesn't matter.

    Lastly, I suspect this is part of the reason why some people strongly dislike Marvelux and FA's flux.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    612
    The two older Lee pots have a dark black patina on them with no rust. The one that has some rust on it from the Franklin flux is only a few weeks old and I haven’t done any casting with it except to melt some WW/lead mix to check operation of temp probe soldered to bottom of pot.
    I think I will be using it when melting into ingots with cast iron pot then maybe try some with wood and beeswax in Lee pots as Gary suggested.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    248
    I use pure Beeswax and I get a black tar substance, then use Marvelux.The Marvelux brings up a crusty white residue which I clean off. What is the black tar, and what is the Marvelux pulling up?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check