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Thread: NATO spec LR primers - OK to use in non-AR, etc., rifles?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    NATO spec LR primers - OK to use in non-AR, etc., rifles?

    Given all I'm seeing in LR are almost all NATO-spec mil LR primers, and I've never used them, will they be good to go in standard hunting rifles, bolts or lever actions? Subject to misfires too much?
    -Paul

  2. #2
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    I've used CCI #34'S with no problems. Generally reserve them from use in the M1 Garand because of the cost.

    Would have no problem using #41's in any small rifle load if that's all I had, either.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Great, thanks, that's really helpful.
    -Paul

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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    The cup on them is a little thicker to help prevent slam fires if the ammo is used in machine guns.
    If your bolt is good & clean, you won't have any problems.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    Given all I'm seeing in LR are almost all NATO-spec mil LR primers, and I've never used them, will they be good to go in standard hunting rifles, bolts or lever actions? Subject to misfires too much?
    They are good to go, just have a heavier cup ( thicker )to prevent slam fires.
    If you have a clean bolt, chamber, clean firing pin and clean firing pin spring in good state you should have no problems. They just usually cost more.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I have even used them in 30-30 and 32 WS in lever action-- worked fine. I bought several thousand during the pandemic when I found a guy who was convinced they would only work in a NATO firearm, so he sold them at a low price (relatively-- above pre-covid but lots lower than now).
    Hick: Iron sights!

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    I had a couple of misfires with my Marlin 1895. I researched it extensively. To make a long story short, I ended up making my hammer spring a tad heavier by shimming it. The trigger pull is still around 3lbs. Since then, no problems.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    OK, great, thanks guys. Pretty confident about the .338, but my gg did make me wonder. I did the sear work myself to bring it down to 4 lbs (from 10), but interesting you say that oconeedan because the first guy I took it to, a gunsmith, only put bands in to reduce the spring tension and all I got were misfires (needless to say, when I found out that's all he did, I got my money back and never went back). I think I'll try to pick up 100, if possible, then play around. I'm seeing 1000 for anywhere from $109 to 129. Afraid of a new normal, I guess.
    -Paul

  9. #9
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    I read somewhere they are rumored to be a magnum level primer also.
    Deplorable infidel

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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
    I read somewhere they are rumored to be a magnum level primer also.
    I never did any research or tests with them, but I've heard that too.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    I use CCI 34's when working up my hunting loads. . .which tend to the toasty end of the spectrum. If you're playing in the land of primers that are flattening or threatening to perforate, the thicker cup is an added level of insurance.

    I've never had a reliability issue with them, but if you're doing trigger pull reductions based around lightened springs, all bets are off.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigslug View Post
    I use CCI 34's when working up my hunting loads. . .which tend to the toasty end of the spectrum. If you're playing in the land of primers that are flattening or threatening to perforate, the thicker cup is an added level of insurance.

    I've never had a reliability issue with them, but if you're doing trigger pull reductions based around lightened springs, all bets are off.
    Sorry, missed this. The gunsmith is the guy that cheaply tried to reduce the trigger pull by putting in ring shims on the spring, lousy technique and I got my money back after countless misfires and finding out that's what he'd done (I showed him, and the LGS who recommended him, that I can break the lever down and reassemble it in like 5 minutes, and for that the guy was charging more than a pretty penny). Never used him again and did my own trigger sear job, which has worked great ever since.

    Thanks again on the info guys. Not a fan of paying the premium for them, but losing hope we'll be seeing LR (for me, either in CCI or, second choice, WW) anytime soon.
    -Paul

  13. #13
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Hello! I've had a similar situation to yourself. The only primers I'd been able to find are CCI 7.62 Nato LRP's. When I loaded up some 30-30 Win for my pal, as it turns out, the relatively lighter striking rebounding hammer of his Win Model 94AE has a nasty habit of light striking. The hits are very solid, but apparently not solid enough for such a firm primer. I was experiencing about 30% light strikes. However, for stronger hammered rifle springs or strikers, I'm certain they would work just fine. They burned clean, but for those rifles that are more gently striking than their peers, you may want to watch out for that.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VariableRecall View Post
    Hello! I've had a similar situation to yourself. The only primers I'd been able to find are CCI 7.62 Nato LRP's. When I loaded up some 30-30 Win for my pal, as it turns out, the relatively lighter striking rebounding hammer of his Win Model 94AE has a nasty habit of light striking. The hits are very solid, but apparently not solid enough for such a firm primer. I was experiencing about 30% light strikes. However, for stronger hammered rifle springs or strikers, I'm certain they would work just fine. They burned clean, but for those rifles that are more gently striking than their peers, you may want to watch out for that.
    Good info. Thanks.
    -Paul

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check