5.7x28 for jackets

[Ajax111]

Has anyone had good luck with removing the coating on the 5.7x28 brass?
I'm going to use them for 30 cal jackets.

Thank you.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I used a wood stove and annealed them at the same time.
See post #2
sorry the photos are lost.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ealing-Jackets

[Dusty Bannister]

A few methods of removal here. Easy archive search.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...g+5.7x28+cases

[Pee Wee]

Has anyone had good luck with removing the coating on the 5.7x28 brass?
I'm going to use them for 30 cal jackets.

Thank you.

Ajax111

I have swaged 1000s of 30 cal. Out of 5.7s. With my buddy Duke in Florida. Once we annealed the brass ( we started out annealing in a 20 pound lee dipper pot with a 1/4 inch steel plate cover and upgraded to a time and temperature controlled craft annealer) we after many trials used ceramic pins washed in just enough water to get them wet, tumbled for 3 hours and that took off the ash and any coating left on them. Good luck in you swaging indevers.

[Sasquatch-1]

I would think annealing will remove any lacquer from the case. Trim before annealing if they need it.

[Pee Wee]

I would think annealing will remove any lacquer from the case. Trim before annealing if they need it.

It removed most but there were still splotches left on some plus the ceramic pin polished them and cleaned off the burnt lacquer.

[Ajax111]

Thank everyone for all the ideas.

I have found myself in a similar spot as Pee Wee. I have annealed the cases in a small Kiln but the annealing process has left spots of burnt lacquer on the brass. I tried to do a few cases, it did not go well.

Pee Wee, was there a special brand or shape of ceramic pins you use?

[Pee Wee]

Ajax,
They are the length of ss pins but fatter. They are for rock tumbleing I believe I got them on Amazon, I use 5 lbs. very little water just enough to make them slushy. To much water does not work. No soap just water for 3 hrs. Hope that helps.

[Ajax111]

Thank you.

[dimaprok]

Interesting, I thought it was a typo when you said ceramic pins. I've seen these triangle ceramic media in Harbor Freight and I was wondering how they would work. I am in the same boat, I've been saving 5.7 cases because I had 30 cal dies I bought from a member here. At the time I didn't know how to make them work but as I picked up another set of 22 dies that uses similar punches it all became clear.

Now I just need to figure out how to convert 5.7x28 in to a usable jacket. Do you guys expand the the neck or trim it off? What kind of weight can you make with a fine open tip? Also for those who anneal with kiln, what temperature should I use? I picked up a small kiln and added PID to it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...dia-63672.html

[Pee Wee]

Interesting, I thought it was a typo when you said ceramic pins. I've seen these triangle ceramic media in Harbor Freight and I was wondering how they would work. I am in the same boat, I've been saving 5.7 cases because I had 30 cal dies I bought from a member here. At the time I didn't know how to make them work but as I picked up another set of 22 dies that uses similar punches it all became clear.

Now I just need to figure out how to convert 5.7x28 in to a usable jacket. Do you guys expand the the neck or trim it off? What kind of weight can you make with a fine open tip? Also for those who anneal with kiln, what temperature should I use? I picked up a small kiln and added PID to it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...dia-63672.html

Dimaprok,
I use BTs dies, I do not cut them off. I derim them first, then anneal, ceramic pin wash,expand mouth, stuff, point form slight hollow point. The largest weight I have made is 168 Gr.


The temperature that I annealed is around 1000 degees but may depend on differing kiln.

[dimaprok]

Dimaprok,
I use BTs dies, I do not cut them off. I derim them first, then anneal, ceramic pin wash,expand mouth, stuff, point form slight hollow point. The largest weight I have made is 168 Gr.


The temperature that I annealed is around 1000 degees but may depend on differing kiln.

Thanks for the response, I actually want to make short 120-130gr bullets for my 300 HAM'R similar to Speer 125gr TNT, so I'll probably need to trim them. If you have any information on what length to trim for that weight I would appreciate it.

So when you say you "derim" them I assume you pass them through a sizing die correct to make them around .307?

[TD1886]

Thank everyone for all the ideas.

I have found myself in a similar spot as Pee Wee. I have annealed the cases in a small Kiln but the annealing process has left spots of burnt lacquer on the brass. I tried to do a few cases, it did not go well.

Pee Wee, was there a special brand or shape of ceramic pins you use?

Who determined the coating was lacquer? I heard from those reloading it or wanting to reload that case say that you can't duplicate the coating.

[Pee Wee]

Thanks for the response, I actually want to make short 120-130gr bullets for my 300 HAM'R similar to Speer 125gr TNT, so I'll probably need to trim them. If you have any information on what length to trim for that weight I would appreciate it.

So when you say you "derim" them I assume you pass them through a sizing die correct to make them around .307?

I only swaged for 150gr and 168 gr. So I never cut them down. I use BT Sniper dies, yes you pass them Thur a die to size down .307 and then after the anneling and ceramic wash, expand the mouth to stuff with lead core and then nose form.

[Pee Wee]

[QUOTE=TD1886;5595476]Who determined the coating was lacquer? I heard from those reloading it or wanting to reload that case say that you can't duplicate the coating.[/QUOTE
I’m not sure what the coating is, we just called it lacquer.

[TD1886]

[QUOTE=Pee Wee;5595535]

Who determined the coating was lacquer? I heard from those reloading it or wanting to reload that case say that you can't duplicate the coating.[/QUOTE
I’m not sure what the coating is, we just called it lacquer.

That's what I thought. Thanks

[ARKANSAS PACKRAT]

I read that the coating is a polymer "of some kind" it's for sure some tough stuff!
I have removed it with paint remover followed by wet pin tumbling.
Soaking them in the paint remover for a week or so and then tumbling for an hour takes about half of the coating off, repeat and almost all will be clean.
I did this to have clean reloading brass for rifle use, two hundred took on "a project" statis.
For swaging I burned it off in the annealing process followed by tumbling.

[MUSTANG]

When I make .308 jackets from 5.7 brass; I heat them with a propane torch first to soften them for forming. This generally gets rid of most of the coating; then I clean in a sonic cleaner with Dawn/Lemishine, then Swage the Jackets and cores into Bullets - finally clean with corn cob media to polish after swaging bullets.

[Pee Wee]

When I make .308 jackets from 5.7 brass; I heat them with a propane torch first to soften them for forming. This generally gets rid of most of the coating; then I clean in a sonic cleaner with Dawn/Lemishine, then Swage the Jackets and cores into Bullets - finally clean with corn cob media to polish after swaging bullets.

Yes, I tried the torch first then went to lee 20 pound dipping pot and finally a craft pottery oven. When Duke, Eddie and I got together to swage we would do 2 to 3 thousand at a time. We would have a swaging party on Friday once a month.

[bigjake]

Yes, I tried the torch first then went to lee 20 pound dipping pot and finally a craft pottery oven. When Duke, Eddie and I got together to swage we would do 2 to 3 thousand at a time. We would have a swaging party on Friday once a month.

sounds like you guys had fun!