Bt sniper de rim die

[COUSIN DANIEL]

I bought one from him on ebay.

My cases were cleaned in steel pins and armor all wash wax.

No cases have been heated nor annealed

In other post BT SNIPER has recommended rcbs case slick lube in spray bottles. I used it heavily and have waited for it to flash and dry. My cases are just sticky and not wet.

I have cases tearing heads off and bodies sticking in die.

I do not know how to remove them other than what I accidentally discovered by pushing another case up and it getting stuck in the other case inside the die. It pulled out on punch and I pulled the disaster off.

Nothing appears to be bent.

I messaged BT on ebay hopefully he replies, if not what are your guys opinions on this?

[deltaenterprizes]

I use STP, even with a good lubricant you can still get head separation.
The Corbin set that I have included a punch to remove the headless case.

[MrWolf]

"In other post BT SNIPER has recommended rcbs case slick lube in spray bottles. I used it heavily and have waited for it to flash and dry. My cases are just sticky and not wet."

I think that may be your issue in that you used way to much. In my experience, less worked better but I have never swaged so no idea if that makes a difference. BT will answer your question. You could also message him on our site. Good luck.
Ron

[rancher1913]

less is more. i just rub some on my finger and coat the brass as i derim it, no mater what you will have some pop the heads off, some brands are worse about it.

[COUSIN DANIEL]

*****Update*****

Talked with BT today on the phone and found out some cool things.

1. The RCBS lube bt referenced is not what I bought.

2. The lube BT supplied with the de rim die works wonderful.

3. Removing the stuck case is simple with a appropriate punch.

4. I have sorted my brass to remove the following headstamps which kept tearing apart no matter what lube was use. They were marked R and had scope cross hairs.

The cases came from my local range where long range 22 rimfire matches are held.

Over all I am quite satisfied because I am now producing jackets, just do it right and there are no issues lol

[deces]

Would these dies be enough to punch out brass cups & into jackets?

[rcslotcar]

I have several BTSniper dies. The die is designed to punch out the rim fire lip case into a smooth swaging jacket. It will not form brass cups into jackets. I use his air powered press that makes swaging out the rim fire case effortless. I have made thousands and thousands of jackets and it still works perfectly. If you compare the quality of BT's jackets to others you'll see a big difference.

[dimaprok]

If you compare the quality of BT's jackets to others you'll see a big difference.

What do you mean by that? Is it better or worse?

I have BTsniper's die, I made my own die and I bought Corbin's die. They all make good jackets. Major difference I found is that Brian's jackets come out around .221" when measured near the base. The punch that came with my die is .1958" I rounded the corners on the punch when I was getting jackets that punched through (turns out I should have let the lube dry)

Corbin jackets come out .223 (plus / minus 3/10,000). His punch is .1988, jackets come out real nice looking with the least amount of line visible where the rim unfolded but it does take more effort to size them. Also, the "sizing" section is shorter on Corbin die compared to BT die.

The die I made myself ended up somewhere with .2225 jackets, I thought I overshot and screwed up but then I got Corbin's die and his is even bigger. Honestly bigger is better because when lead core is seated the expansion is not as uniform but with 22LR jackets being so thin and soft it doesn't matter. They all come out the same as far as I can tell after point forming. I did run in to issue with commercial jackets being 3 thousands under (in 6.5mm) even though Richard Corbin told me that 3 thou should not be a problem. Take a look at the picture and decide for yourself. The ones on the left are Corbin's and the ones on the right is BTsniper's. Another thing that's obvious is the indented ring from one case pushing the other one. Depending on the punch geometry and how far you set up the die it might be present or not. I know that when I made my own punch (for my Rock Chucker with a different holder) that line went away. I got lucky and got the right geometry.

[dimaprok]

*****Update*****
Talked with BT today on the phone and found out some cool things.
1. The RCBS lube bt referenced is not what I bought.
2. The lube BT supplied with the de rim die works wonderful.
3. Removing the stuck case is simple with a appropriate punch.
4. I have sorted my brass to remove the following headstamps which kept tearing apart no matter what lube was use. They were marked R and had scope cross hairs.
The cases came from my local range where long range 22 rimfire matches are held.
Over all I am quite satisfied because I am now producing jackets, just do it right and there are no issues lol

In my experience, I saw no difference in what lube I used. I tend to overlube as well and it has not been a problem when it comes to de-rimming. That RCBS case lube-2 works well, I've used previously mixed with ISO-HEET to size cases and worked great for me but I've used several different ones and had no issues. Right now I am trying to finish up liquid lanolin one I made.

What I did find that matters is to make sure the alcohol evaporates, so I use a hair fan, and it's quick and easy.

The two cases that I found a very high rate of punch through are Center X Lapua (crosshairs) and some Norma (shield with letter R), however, I don't recall the case ever getting stuck inside the die, I think you probably didn't screw it in far enough. Normally when a case punches through ends up on the punch and if you put a washer of the right size beforehand on the punch you can strip it off easily.

[BT Sniper]

RCBS Case Lube-2 is what I use for only derim and core bleed operations. It is nice to use because it washes clean with water. For point forming and core seating I use a quality lanolin based swage lube.

Swage on!

BT