electric safe lock

[hiram]

I had a problem with an electric safe lock.

I tried opening the safe by doing the usual, but I got 3 beeps at the end of the sequence instead of two. I tried this two more times-no luck. Then when I tried it again, no beeps.

I changed the battery, no good. I let it be half an hour, then it worked.

I happened to go to a gun show and I spoke to a safe vendor. She said it sounded like the lock is failing and she gave me prices for a new lock. She also said one day nothing will happen and then the job gets expensive to drill whatever has to be drilled to open the door.

Any help/comments? What she said may be true, but I am a little leary.

Thanks

[Sasquatch-1]

If it's a quality safe, I would check with the manufacturer first and see what they have to say.

[Land Owner]

This marks a reason I purchased and rely on old fashioned, manual, rotary dial safes. I hope to find my locks gives satisfaction every time. While there probably are American made products, of which I have not researched, I suspect that many of the electronic lock internals are Made in China.

Rotary dial safes seem to be inherently maintenance-free. I have not read about "required maintenance" or "lockout" on rotary dial safes, except forgetting the combination.

[Sig]

I had to change out one for a buddy. It was a fairly straight forward job. I personally prefer a dial, but they can fail too. I'd replace it if I were you with a S&G or similar.

[Thundarstick]

One of the gun shops here had to have a large Fort Knox safe drilled because of an electric lock failure. I remembered that episode when I bought a safe and made sure it had a high quality S&G rotary lock!

[winelover]

My 25+ year old Electronic S&G failed similar to open, recently. Changed the batteries, got the correct beep but didn't hear mechanism opening, until around the third try. Been behaving for about two months now.

This is not my only safe with an electronic lock. My Brown Safe, I ordered has a LeGuard electronic and a back up manual. Never used the manual except to confirm the combination, when purchased 12 years ago. Manual locks are a PITA to open when you age/require reading glasses. They are slower than molasses in January to open, even for young eyes. Both safes are opened weekly, if not daily, using the electronic locks.

Winelover

[Randy Bohannon]

I had the same experience with a Cannon safe ,spent some time on the phone with the Cannon C/S in India ! Needless to say it didn’t go well and didn’t resolve the issue. I mentioned this to my local gun store and they suggested replacing the S&G third world electronic lock with a American Security mechanical lock which was a item they carried as it was a common problem with S&G electronic locks. It solved my issue with aplomb,it took about 30 minutes to replace and is not difficult .

[pworley1]

I am too old fashion, I don't trust electronic locks.

[ioon44]

I would not trust an electronic lock either.

[deltaenterprizes]

I was told when I bought my first safe to take the inside panel off of the door and take measurements of where the deadbolt locks the mechanism so that if I had a problem I could drill it myself.
I had to punch 2 of my safes after Katrina because they would not open.

[psychodad]

I was told when I bought my first safe to take the inside panel off of the door and take measurements of where the deadbolt locks the mechanism so that if I had a problem I could drill it myself.

Sounds like a good idea. Guess I know what I'm doing this afternoon.

[rbuck351]

My electric safe came with a key that opens the safe with the key hole behind the battery.

[jimlj]

The mechanical locks require periodic cleaning and lubrication.
About 30 years ago my S&G lock started feeling stiff to turn and took many tries to get it open. After getting the door open I removed the inside cover and blew out all the dust bunnies and gave the lock a light spritz of WD-40. I worked the lock several times with the door open and it began to work flawless. I do the same clean and oil every few years as a preventative maintenance since then.

[pete501]

My S&G electric lock started acting up and after contacting the safe company, they offered me a replacement lock and instructions for installation. Pretty easy to replace with no special tools required. Not sure if the lock was under recall but there was no charge.

[deltaenterprizes]

The mechanical locks require periodic cleaning and lubrication.
About 30 years ago my S&G lock started feeling stiff to turn and took many tries to get it open. After getting the door open I removed the inside cover and blew out all the dust bunnies and gave the lock a light spritz of WD-40. I worked the lock several times with the door open and it began to work flawless. I do the same clean and oil every few years as a preventative maintenance since then.

When the WD-40 gums up you will have more problems!
WD-40 is not a good lubricant, it is a water displacer, hence W D, the 40th formula.
Use a light oil like Remoil or other spray oil.

[farmbif]

there is a reason thermal lances were invented. but who knows what condition the contents will be in if you have to resort to such extremes to get it open

[Winger Ed.]

I worked for a high security safe company for 11 years.
In the customer service desk area, there was usually 2 or 3 people in there. The phone never stopped ringing.
I asked one of them one time how many calls did they get for problems with the old school spin dial locks.
They said every few weeks they'd get a call where it had been in a fire, flood, or someone had lost the combination.

On the big monster TL rated high security safes- we wouldn't sell one with an electronic lock on it.
If you do go back with a electronic lock, AMSEC ESL-10 or 20 is the benchmark of the industry.

I also think your lock is failing.
If it's locked, and won't open, which is coming--- get out a fat checkbook to have a locksmith drill it.
All problems with a safe are MUCH easier to deal with if the door is open.

[popper]

Mine has keypad and 2 KEYS.

[Winger Ed.]

The mechanical locks require periodic cleaning and lubrication.

Cleaning--- yes. Lubrication--- that's a big no-no.

The class S&G gives recommends take it apart, clean the wheels & shaft with a strong solvent,
wipe/polish them with a dry lint free cloth, and put it back together.

Not all, but most S&Gs have a flat plate that looks like a gear at the bottom of the lock body.
It adjusts the tension you feel when turning the dial.

When any oil becomes gummy, the wheels won't coast freely and will drag with the one above or below it.
Then it gets real interesting.............

[Adam20]

Had a Eletronic one go bad after 10 years, had a s/g dial put on.