Safety issues with oven treating?

[Walter Laich]

down a side road:

if/when you start powder coating/PC, NEVER, and I mean NEVER, do this in an oven, air fryer, or whatever that you might cook food in after the PC

the inside of my dedicated toaster oven is covered with a fine coating of PC + there is the out-gassing that happens too.

[jonp]

Well, the toaster oven was a wash. Wild - like 80F - temperature swings and I had to monitor it constantly to turn the thermostat so elements fired on and off within any kind of acceptable range. Even then, I did step away once or twice and though I had a "setpoint" of 420 (and all kinds of others, trying to keep 420-440), sometimes it swung to 510F before shutting off (with carryover temp much higher), other times, went 380F before kicking on (and then 420F, cycling off again). I think that, and the fact elements are way too close to the tray and localized heating is severe, well....you see the photo.

I could do a high-temp PID but my DIY days pretty much ended with cheese vats, aging caves, and beer cellars.

Attachment 314818

I think I'm getting the hint from Bigslug...casting and immediately quenching for the 45-70, mortar lob to 125 yards at most, is kind of calling my name....

You are over thinking this. I have not had a problem with the temperature variations in powder coating or heat treating. Don't get caught up in the details. Do it, shoot it and if it works it's good

[huntinlever]

You are over thinking this. I have not had a problem with the temperature variations in powder coating or heat treating. Don't get caught up in the details. Do it, shoot it and if it works it's good

Jon, I don't know if you saw the pic, but some bullets completely melted while others didn't. At least with the oven I used, the elements apparently gave out way too much local heat - the oven thermometer showed the temp was well within range, as far as I know, so shouldn't have melted like they did. I bailed.

[quack1]

[QUOTE=huntinlever;5585750]Well, the toaster oven was a wash. Wild - like 80F - temperature swings and I had to monitor it constantly to turn the thermostat so elements fired on and off within any kind of acceptable range. Even then, I did step away once or twice and though I had a "setpoint" of 420 (and all kinds of others, trying to keep 420-440), sometimes it swung to 510F before shutting off (with carryover temp much higher), other times, went 380F before kicking on (and then 420F, cycling off again). I think that, and the fact elements are way too close to the tray and localized heating is severe, well....you see the photo.

A piece of 1/8-1/4" thick aluminum on the tray, with bullets placed on it, should even out the temps and prevent localized melting. A piece of steel would work too, just would take longer to heat up. A trip to a scrap yard should provide what you need.

[charlie b]

That works as long as you are not using the upper heating element, which is what most air fryers do. The direct radiant heat is really bad for what we do with bullets. You can make an Al foil 'tent' over the bullets to even that out.

[jimb16]

Interesting! My toaster oven has a 20 degree temp swing. It's a Salivating Army pickup. For monitoring the temp, I drilled a small hole through the top and stick in my lead thermometer. I let the oven heat up before I toss in a tray of pills to PC them. Once I found the correct dial setting I marked it on the dial and I check it each time I use the oven. Never had any problems.

[jonp]

Jon, I don't know if you saw the pic, but some bullets completely melted while others didn't. At least with the oven I used, the elements apparently gave out way too much local heat - the oven thermometer showed the temp was well within range, as far as I know, so shouldn't have melted like they did. I bailed.

I didn't see them but what you show is interesting. I stand mine on end. My cheapo Walmart special fluxes 40, maybe? But I think if your heat treating or powder coating at a high enough temp even with that fluctuation to slump the lead you may be too high to start. Others with more experience can chime in here on this

[huntinlever]

I didn't see them but what you show is interesting. I stand mine on end. My cheapo Walmart special fluxes 40, maybe? But I think if your heat treating or powder coating at a high enough temp even with that fluctuation to slump the lead you may be too high to start. Others with more experience can chime in here on this

I think that my laying on their side was a mistake, now that you mention it. Thanks, too, on the thoughts - I found that if I kept it so the high end was controlled within acceptable temps, it swung so low I wasn't sure actually where I was actually heating them. Maybe a pid might have worked better? Either way, seems the 80F was just too crazy.

[44Blam]

Lead will kill you, but only in bullet form, at high speed.

This is referred to as 'acute lead poisoning'.

I'll post it soon but I am making an oven for paint curing (cerakote, etc) that I will also use for PC or anything that the wife would object to in our kitchen oven... But prior to the not yet finished oven, I have used crappy toaster ovens and they work great!