Rolling Block underlever

[marlinman93]

that is the issue it is in - fine print at bottom { plus much more ] -

I guess I'll just have to take your word for it, as nothing on the cover of that issue shows anything about the Gove underlever kits? And the various articles listed below don't mention it either?

The link is to:

GUNS MAGAZINE 2013 SURPLUS FIREARMS SPECIAL EDITION PDF

[schutzen-jager]

on pages 28 + 29 in the 2020 Gun Digest is short mention + 2 pictures of them - recall reading in the past the rational explaining the lever was the Remingtons were cheaper than the Sharps, Ballard, + etc. , but market hunters in the field were losing game because the tab on the roller did not have enough leverage to chamber many times field reloaded cartridges - the under lever provided extra leverage to chamber them -

[marlinman93]

Set trigger quit working at our long range shoot a couple weeks ago. I kept shooting un-set as the trigger is still pretty nice. Tried to back the adjusting screw out, but the pin on the end of the screw was stuck, and it snapped off!
When I got home I removed the trigger and had to drill the tiny pin out, and then punch the rest of it out of the trigger. Ordered a new adjusting screw from Numrich, and it arrived today.
Started taking the action apart to install the trigger, and ended up having to tear it completely apart to do so. It got really ugly as this is way different than any standard #1 Roller! Lots of little pins, links, screws, springs, etc., and it has to come apart in steps to remove parts.
Took 5 hours to get it apart, and back together. Then about 10 tries to keep shortening the trigger adjusting screw until it worked right. The pin portion of the screw was too long and when set correctly the screw had one thread into the trigger. Had to keep removing more metal off the pin until I got it short enough that it has about 5 threads into the trigger when set right. Put some blue Loctite on it then, and reinstalled it, so it wont change adjustment on it's own! But it is back to working great, and hope I never take this action completely apart again!

[barnetmill]

Set trigger quit working at our long range shoot a couple weeks ago. I kept shooting un-set as the trigger is still pretty nice. Tried to back the adjusting screw out, but the pin on the end of the screw was stuck, and it snapped off!
When I got home I removed the trigger and had to drill the tiny pin out, and then punch the rest of it out of the trigger. Ordered a new adjusting screw from Numrich, and it arrived today.
Started taking the action apart to install the trigger, and ended up having to tear it completely apart to do so. It got really ugly as this is way different than any standard #1 Roller! Lots of little pins, links, screws, springs, etc., and it has to come apart in steps to remove parts.
Took 5 hours to get it apart, and back together. Then about 10 tries to keep shortening the trigger adjusting screw until it worked right. The pin portion of the screw was too long and when set correctly the screw had one thread into the trigger. Had to keep removing more metal off the pin until I got it short enough that it has about 5 threads into the trigger when set right. Put some blue Loctite on it then, and reinstalled it, so it wont change adjustment on it's own! But it is back to working great, and hope I never take this action completely apart again!

Wow, I am glad you finally got it working.

[marlinman93]

Wow, I am glad you finally got it working.

Me too!
One of the toughest single shot actions I've had the "pleasure" to tear down. Surely much more complicated than the Rolling Block that spawned this rifle!

[quack1]

Some more attempts to find some maker's mark, or notes lead me to remove the buttplate, or at least try to! The buttplate screws came out and this is what I discovered.







A two piece buttplate! The outer appears to be an original hard rubber buttplate that was milled out, and then the center made to fit into the perimeter! No idea what the purpose of doing it this way was? The buttplate perimeter piece is secured to the wood somehow, so removing the two screws only removes the center filler. There's no parting line showing as the fitment is too close to reveal it's a two piece.

That is a common plastic Remington buttplate used on several rifle models in the past 20-30 years. The mounting screws have been replaced on yours, the originals were blued Phillips head. The base piece was also held on with two of the same type screws. You can see the two countersunk holes in your base where they went. I have no idea why Remington went from a simple one piece plastic plate with two screws to a most likely more expensive two piece plate with four screws. I trashed a bunch of those two piece plates when installing recoil pads for customers.

[marlinman93]

That is a common plastic Remington buttplate used on several rifle models in the past 20-30 years. The mounting screws have been replaced on yours, the originals were blued Phillips head. The base piece was also held on with two of the same type screws. You can see the two countersunk holes in your base where they went. I have no idea why Remington went from a simple one piece plastic plate with two screws to a most likely more expensive two piece plate with four screws. I trashed a bunch of those two piece plates when installing recoil pads for customers.

Interesting! I've never encountered any two piece Remington buttplates in my life, and didn't know they even existed?

[pull the trigger]

If you ever have this apart again, I'd love to see a picture of the lever/block. I am completely in love with this roller, I've always found them interesting, but this is way over the top.

[marlinman93]

If you ever have this apart again, I'd love to see a picture of the lever/block. I am completely in love with this roller, I've always found them interesting, but this is way over the top.

Will do! I really should have taken pictures while it was apart anyway, just so I'd have them. Other than the spur removed from the block, and a slot cut in the bottom of the block for the square operating rod to connect block to lever, it's the same as any standard Sporting Rifle's block. The majority of the modifications are found on the trigger plate with slot cut for the lever, and various holes cross drilled for pivot pin, and other pieces.

[pull the trigger]

I was assuming the lever was attached directly to the block, I hadn't considered linkage in there.

[marlinman93]

I was assuming the lever was attached directly to the block, I hadn't considered linkage in there.

It's basically a short piece of square stock maybe 3/16" square and an inch long. The block is modified with a cut through the lower part and a pin through the block to attach the link to the block, and another pin to attach the off end to the lever.
The only weakness I see is the trigger plate modification. It has a rectangle hole cut through the trigger plate to allow for the lever to pass through it. I could see if someone stuck a case in the chamber and put too much pressure on the lever to try to extract a well stuck case that the trigger plate could flew and even bend at some point.
Of course knowing this would just make most guys not force the lever open, and chance bending the trigger plate.

[xtriggerman]

This was all an interesting read. Next time I open up one of my rollers, I'll look into a poor mans conversion with common parts. Now that should be a fun project. Thanks for posting this journey mm93. Using various common parts to improve a particular design function is the coolest of all projects. Her's one I did a number of years ago. On the other side of the spectrum but way, way different than whats out there. One of my one of's.

[Rockindaddy]

Hey Marlin: You really found a dandy! You ought to take it to the Quigley Shoot this June. The Remington Rolling Block shooters would all be scratchin their heads after seeing that custom 32-40 lever/roller! Hope it shoots as good as it looks.

[marlinman93]

Hey Marlin: You really found a dandy! You ought to take it to the Quigley Shoot this June. The Remington Rolling Block shooters would all be scratchin their heads after seeing that custom 32-40 lever/roller! Hope it shoots as good as it looks.

I think the .32-40 on any rifle would be a huge disadvantage at the Quigley shoot. It would likely be a novelty, but wouldn't be my choice for long range shooting. I took it to our annual long range shoot last October and shot it at the 450 yd. dinger and it did quite well. Great accuracy and the 170 gr. loads were fine for 450 yds. But I think a heavy bullet in a .38-55 is marginal for most shooters at the Q, and better to have a .40 or .45 caliber with a much heavier bullet to be able to do well. Especially in the hands of a duffer like me. I need all the help I can get, not to toss any road blocks into my shooting.