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Thread: Cap maker

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Arizona
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    4,680
    You are correct about stuffing the inside of the die with floral clay.
    That is why I mentioned cleaning out the slot.
    I was wondering if you could mold a copy of the interior of the punch shaft to get an idea of what shape it is.
    You could use epoxy and a release agent or possibly Cerosafe to cast it with.
    If the molding gets stuck.
    You just warm up the parts to soften the casting material.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master Gtrubicon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Northern ca
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    548
    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Vaj View Post
    The die body has threads to be threaded on a reloading press and the punch is made to fit in the ram of the press, the cap maker is threaded upside down and as you pull the handle down, a cap is formed and falls down through punch and since I have a lee classic cast, it goes neatly into the tube! Attachment 316970 Attachment 316971 Attachment 316972
    Where did you find this?

  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    eastern Iowa
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    474
    What he is showing and talking about is a Forrester Auto-Cap. Hasn't been made for 40 years or there abouts. I have one too. They didn't last long in the market. I'm guessing the $15 charge was too high. Works like it should except the cups produced are too tight to fit easily on many nipples. Today's Cap Maker is what we have now. It works but can stand some mods to make it better. The punch fit to the die body is too loose for my liking. I expanded the punch to a closer fit and get better results.

  4. #64
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    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    Oct 2011
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    Was-Colorado, Wyoming now
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    I just saw the post from Idz linking his plans. Boy! That is helpful!!! I am not sure how I missed that when I first read this thread.
    I printed it off and will prototype it this fall when I get some time.
    I have a full sized lathe and mill and can make and remake parts until I get it right and fitting the way I want.
    I can revisit this thread when I have something to show and tell.

    FWIW - I just acquired two more C&B revolvers and need to feed them. I traded a Colt SAA 45 for a ROA stainless and a Colt Navy plus $1000 for my pocket. I shot the Colt Navy yesterday for the first time. It needs nipples or me making caps that fit. Neither CCI 10's or 11's stay on well and Remington 10's fall back to the recoil shield even pinched.
    Chill Wills

  5. #65
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    eastern Iowa
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    474
    Idz's plans will work. the top eject is the best way to go. you don't need hardened steel for this. I would make the punch out of something good as you want the teeth to stay sharp. The die body can be any steel you have laying around.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check