Getting a Band Saw to track correctly

[GregLaROCHE]

I inherited an older band saw from my father in-law. I am familiar with the saw. He discussed it with me before he passed. He could never get the blade to track straight, even after taking it to supposedly a professional to be repaired. I took it apart to try and get it to function properly. I couldn’t get it to even stay on. I’m wondering if the rubber tire, that is hardened with age has anything to do with the problem. The other thing is possibly the blade is distorted. Is it possible it needs to be adjusted in the other axis using shims? Any advice will be. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

[elmacgyver0]

With my bandsaws I find they track worse once the blade gets a bit dull.
They are difficult to get to track right.

[Misery-Whip]

The blade could be welded together crooked, but you need to check the wheels to see if they are parallel, and over the top of each other. A straight edge, string, or laser can help with this. Id check the alignment under tension. Shim as needed. If the frame is bent, this could be a chore.


If the blade will track when running, but comes off in a cut, check the guide bearings at the back of the blade guide are present, and are the correct diameter for the width of blade so it will run in center of the wheels.

Bicycle tubes split and stretched around the wheels can be used to repair the wheels.

[elmacgyver0]

The blade could be welded together crooked, but you need to check the wheels to see if they are parallel, and over the top of each other. A straight edge, string, or laser can help with this. Id check the alignment under tension. Shim as needed. If the frame is bent, this could be a chore.


If the blade will track when running, but comes off in a cut, check the guide bearings at the back of the blade guide are present, and are the correct diameter for the width of blade so it will run in center of the wheels.

Bicycle tubes split and stretched around the wheels can be used to repair the wheels.

Sounds like good advice to me.

[Wayne Smith]

Get the Bandsaw Handbook, it is full of advice about multiple kinds of saws. Yes, you need to replace the tires, but you also need to balance the wheels and make sure the bottom wheel tracks with the top wheel. The book has instructions for this. Tires are available for multiple sizes of wheels, you need to know your wheel size to order the correct tires.

[Handloader109]

If the rubber is hardened and cracked, they need replacing. The upper and lower wheels have to be on the same plane in order to track correctly. Some saws can be pretty difficult, especially older ones and they can be over tensioned and the frame actually bent. Yes. Buy a couple of blades and try them also

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk

[country gent]

I would start with the wheel bearings check them as they wear they allow the wheels to droop and cock. Check the blade guides for wear and alignment, also that they are set to match the blade.

[Mk42gunner]

All seems like good advice to me.

Here is what I did in a similar situation when I inherited a cheap chineseium bandsaw (Brand name GMC, Global Machinery Company)from my uncle.

Step one, buy a new blade. they are cheap.

Step two, go to you tube and search for Stumpy Nubs. He had a video in the last year or so about adjusting bandsaws. His advice worked.

Good luck with it, they are a very handy tool.

Robert

[GregLaROCHE]

I can’t get it to turn much past one revolution. I guess I’ll buy another blade to try.

[atr]

the rubber on the upper and lower wheels sometimes starts to slip on the wheel and that will affect tracking.
best
atr

[ulav8r]

Bought a Harbor Freight metal cutting band saw for my employer many years ago. Had to shim the mounts of the sliding wheel in order to keep the blade on the wheels. Used a straight edge to check the alignment and placed shims as needed. The saw then did a very good job.

[beemer]

The rubber wheel should be domed the saw will run on the top, they do get hard and worn. Adjust the tilt on the top wheel to get close to center if you can. Take the covers off and get the guides out of the way and turn a few rounds by hand to see if the blades track on the wheels. The blade should track with the guides out of the way. If it doesn't something is out of line or the blade is bad. Check the bearings in the wheels. See if the wheels have slipped on the axle. It is possible that the axis needs to be shimmed, never seen it but it is possible. The guides only keep the blade from pushing off the back and twisting in a turn. The guides can be very worn but that will not cause the blade to jump off the wheel just not track when sawing.

I ran band saws for a living and usually had to keep the rest of them running. Others have given some good advice as well. Just start with the wheels and go one step at the time.

[Wayne Smith]

I can’t get it to turn much past one revolution. I guess I’ll buy another blade to try.

Please explain that statement, Greg. Do you mean the drive wheel does not turn? In that case it may be a problem with the bearing or the motor, nothing to do with the blade.

Or do you mean that you can't get it to turn much more than one turn before the blade comes off? Agan, get the Bandsaw Handbook, and there is a good chance your library has a copy? I don't know about the public libraries in France.

[MrWolf]

There are a lot of books on band saw. I just got my 30 year old Delta going. The manual for your saw should have info (find manual on the web). I also have Nick Engler's book "Using the Band Saw" which offers tips and such. Good luck.
Ron

[Armorer77]

Years ago I was given a bandsaw that kept kicking the blade off . I put the wheels on the lathe and cut a slight reverse taper on them , worked for 20 years of occasional use . Ed

[Paf]

Good advice given from all members for the bandsaw. In my job ( shop teacher ) I've had to work on a few over the years ( in schools that I taught at as well as helping other shop teachers and friends on theirs ). Worked on all brands and models ( Delta, Powermatic, Davis & Wells, Yates, Walker-Turner, etc. ). The one thing that was done on quite a few of these machines that really boasted/improved their blade tracking was to install aftermarket urethane tires. The rubber tires do develop cracks and flat spots over the life of the machine. Flat spots can occur when a machine isn't used for long periods of time and the blade ( with tension on it ) sits on these tires in the same location. When I was in college, we were taught to take the tension off the blade when the machine sits for such long periods of time. I don't practice this in my shop, since students may forget to put blade tension on before turning the saw on. Anyway, urethane tires may be something you may want to consider.

About a year and a half ago I rescued ( it was going to be scrapped ) an older Delta 14" bandsaw that was being replaced at another sister school in my District. That shop replaced it with a new Laguna saw. The Delta saw had been at that school since 1958 ( year the school opened ). I figured it would be good to have another saw for my students to use ( now have five total in our shop ). I could not get that machine to track a blade worth a darn. Took the top wheel assembly apart and found excessive play in the top wheel shaft and housing that holds it. Fixed it with JB Weld along with tapping a set screw into the housing to hold the shaft in placed while the JB Weld cured. Saw has been running great ever since. Must have been a design flaw for the Delta model, since I bought another one a year later ( had the metal cutting gear box ) that had the same problem. This one was repaired using the exact method as well.

Here are some resources you may find of interest for the bandsaw:

"Woodshop Tool Maintenance" by Cunningham & Holtrop
"Band Saw Tips & Tricks" by Kenneth Burton
"Woodworking Machines" by Time Life Book Series
www.vintagemachinery.org

Also, any references by Mark Duginske and Nick Engler ( he was mentioned in a earlier post ) is worth looking into as well.

Good luck on your saw.

Paf

[lancem]

I would first start for sure with the wheel covers, I like the green ones, though I don't have a link for them off hand. They have to be a little "soft" for lack of a better term for the blade to grip them as the wheels are domed. New covers and a quality new blade and I would think you would be on your way.

[gloob]

Many modern bandsaws have an adjustable lower wheel. There are 4 bolts/nuts to make fine adjustments to the wheel axis if needed.

If the lower wheel is mounted directly to the motor, the bolts holding the motor to the frame can be shimmed to make these adjustments.

If the lower wheel is belt driven and the wheel bearing goes directly into the frame, it's maybe an old saw with a cast iron frame? You can't properly adjust the wheel. Look for some other way. Frames are sometimes cast in two pieces that are bolted together. You can achieve wheel/tracking adjustments by loosening the bolts holding the frame halves together and twisting and/or putting shims there!

You can also shim how far wheels stick out from the frame with washers, and that might be all it takes to get it in range. If the saw worked at first, but lost tracking as the frame took some set, you typically need to put a washer under the lower wheel to make it stick out slightly more.

The wheels need to be in the same plane while under blade tension. So they need to be close to planar when the blade isn't on there, but not perfect. The frame will bend and twist a little once you put the tension on there.

[GregLaROCHE]

Please explain that statement, Greg. Do you mean the drive wheel does not turn? In that case it may be a problem with the bearing or the motor, nothing to do with the blade.

Or do you mean that you can't get it to turn much more than one turn before the blade comes off? Agan, get the Bandsaw Handbook, and there is a good chance your library has a copy? I don't know about the public libraries in France.

When I turn the the saw by hand the blade wants to come off in a turn or two.

[Reg]

Bearings and alignment are very important as is the condition of the wheel covers and you must have a properly made blade of good quality but the one big thing is the actual shape of the profile of the crown on the outer shape of the wheel both the driven and the following wheel. You want it convex and equil on the face of the wheel surface. This “crowning” both on band saws and band sanders too makes the blade “hunt” the center of the wheel and stay in alignment. It dosnt take a lot of this crowning but it must be there or the blade will wander. Hope this makes sense. I have repaired several bandsaws that had your condition and made several belt sanders from scratch and always found this “crowning” to be the most important factor in making them run true.