Aftermarket trigger assembly for 336 - doable at home easily?

[huntinlever]

Years ago I dropped the trigger on my guide gun from 10-4 pounds, by doing a sear job (this was after paying a gunsmith, who merely added bushings to the spring, and I ended up with countless FTFs. Never used the guy again). Don't want to do the same on my son's 336, but that heavy factory pull is abysmal. Just wondering how easy an after-market trigger assembly switch is to do at home, or is this a definite job for my gunsmith?

[FergusonTO35]

I don't see any reason you couldn't. Worst thing that could happen is you end up having to put the original back in. A light honing would probably improve the original an awful lot.

[Blkpwdrbuff]

How about a Wild West replacement trigger.
I've put them in my Marlin 1894 and 1895 with great results.
They are available for the 336 also.

[ATCDoktor]

I've done 3 of them, a couple of Wild West triggers and a Wolff reduced power hammer spring.

Use this video here and (if your the least bit mechanically inclined) you shouldn't have any problems:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-7Y_6DTFFs&t=268s

[35 Rem]

I put the Wild West trigger in my 336 and love the results. The factory trigger pull weight was almost off the scale of a gauge. It doesn't require any fitting - just remove the old and install the new.

I had played around with changing out springs but then got failures to fire and still didn't get the pull weight down to a reasonable level. With the Wild West trigger I went back to the factory main spring and got a pull weight somewhat under 4 lbs which is a huge improvement from 9+.

If you can take a Marlin 336 apart, and reassemble it again then you can install the trigger yourself.

[popper]

Wild West trigger in my 336 and love the results. Same here.

[flatnose]

Never use a reduced spring, if anything you want a stronger spring. Trigger pull weight is adjusted by the angles on sear and hammer. If you dont understand trigger geometry then something like the wild west trigger is the way to go. Change the angle on the trigger and dont change the hammer but cut down the outside of the hammer sear to reduce sear engagement. If your gunsmith can not perform this then move to another.

[huntinlever]

Thanks everyone. The WWG looks like it might be the way to go.

Flatnose - yeah, that was the problem. The guy had come highly recommended by my then-LGS. But he merely put bushings on to reduce the spring pull (all it did was weaken the strike, as you know. I ended up with a huge amount of misfires, and that was all). I took the gun into the LGS, broke it down in front of them in 5 minutes, removed the bushings and put it back together again in 5 minutes to show how lame a job the guy did, and charged me handsomely to do it. They agreed to partially refund and they and the gunsmith lost my business. I researched, researched, and carefully went at the sear and successfully brought the pull down.

That said, I don't want to do the same for my son's gun. So I think the WWG is a great solution.

Much appreciated.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I usually put a Wolff EXTRA Power main spring in my Marlin's, carefully stone the sear and trigger and get a reliable 2.75-3 lb trigger. The trigger guard plate can be used as jig to check progress without completely reassembling the rifle. The 'newer' Marlin's that have a trigger safety block get a one-piece firing pin to enhance reliability, the trigger safety block prevents accidental firing when the lever is not locked, the original reason for the two piece firing pin.