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Thread: For the Iron Mold casters

  1. #41
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    I got a good deal on a huge bunch of paper and cut the rolls down to manageable sizes and wrapped them in stretch wrap. This was at least ten years ago.I keep a layer or three in a, big, airtight, box. A Pelican copy but not Harbor Freight.Perfect spot for my eight or so moulds. The rolls still have plenty of the VCI smell.

  2. #42
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackthorn View Post
    Quote "You do realize that you can buy VCI paper, right?"

    Thanks for the link. Just ordered a stack of 6"x6" pre-cut sheets. Do not know that I will ever need that many (1000 sheets) but I can share with my two boys. Does VCI paper lose its strength over time? If so would shrink-packing excess paper preserve it?
    Yes, and yes. The paper slowly releases a rust-inhibiting vapor, (hence Vapor Phase Inhibitor) and eventually it is all gone. Storing vacuum-sealed would stop the vapor loss.

    (LOL - I see it is now called vapor CORROSION inhibitor. Dinosaur that I am, I never knew of the change.) You can also buy it on Amazon.
    Last edited by uscra112; 07-17-2023 at 08:29 PM.
    Cognitive Dissident

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by uscra112 View Post
    Yes, and yes. The paper slowly releases a rust-inhibiting vapor, (hence Vapor Phase Inhibitor) and eventually it is all gone. Storing vacuum-sealed would stop the vapor loss.

    (LOL - I see it is now called vapor CORROSION inhibitor. Dinosaur that I am, I never knew of the change.) You can also buy it on Amazon.
    Thanks for the reply. Another question; any idea how long the paper is effective before it deteriorates in use?
    R.D.M.

  4. #44
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackthorn View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Another question; any idea how long the paper is effective before it deteriorates in use?
    It would certainly depend on storage conditions. I can tell you that a Lyman mould I wrapped up prior to my retirement in 2009 was noticeably rusted 10 years later, it having been simply placed back in its' plastic box, and left on a shelf. The paper was completely dry and almost white. An airtight enclosure would have been much better, I am sure.

    I use another form of this chemical, which is supplied as 1"x2" "coupons", in gun cases. Its' mfgr. says 2 years.

    More than that I cannot say.
    Cognitive Dissident

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks again. I feel an experiment coming on, but I live in an area designated as semi-dessert so maybe I am being just a bit paranoid. None of my moulds show any signs of corrosion and they have been stored with just a light film of oil for years.
    R.D.M.

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
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    If you want things to rust ,simply expose them to a current of air ,ie a draught when there is a change of temperature ........early morning is a common time to see water /condensation forming ........here the common time is around 9am .......the sun hits the wet grass,all my stuff indoors is still cold from the nightime temp......big beads of water form on anything metal exposed to a draught ...........An interesting phenomenon is the salt desert in Chile ....old trucks are driven through pools of salty water ,yet there is no rust ...the relative humidity is 3%...........similar situation in underground salt caverns .

  7. #47
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    If you cast with multiple moulds at one time the iron moulds permit a smooth casting process. They are slow to heat, but sitting the iron moulds with handles on the alloy when you turn the pour pot on makes the time work out. They also cool slowly which smooths the casting process out. I cast with four iron dual cavity moulds at a time, water drop through peanuts. I do very obvious different bullets, like 358-200, 30 cal-165, 44-240, 9mm-124 TC, so there is no problem sorting them out.

    My casting process is all about maximizing uniformity of the bullets as produced. My need, for competition, is consistent fill out and bullet weight. I simply can not have rust.

    Iron or raw steel requires care to prevent rust in high temperatures and high humidity, Bees wax on hot metal works well for me. I leave the last bullet in the mould, apply the wax when hot, then when cold, spray the handle joint and exterior of the mould with G-96. If you spray it hot, the cavities suck the oil in as they cool, causing a need to acetone the inside several times for later use.

    I also use Frankfort Arsenal Drop Out on new, warm moulds, not hot, only warmed to dry with a propane tourch, after a through degreasing.
    Last edited by Rapier; 07-21-2023 at 10:34 AM.
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  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicholst55 View Post
    You do realize that you can buy VCI paper, right?

    https://www.google.com/search?q=buy+...client=gws-wiz
    Good stuff that VCI paper,been using it for molds for quite awhile.

  9. #49
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    Hang a sheet or two in your gun safe.
    Cognitive Dissident

  10. #50
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    I spray my steel molds with a light coating of Kroil when I am done with a casting session. It protects well and burns off with a couple of runs in the chambers.
    No buildup has occurred in my molds from oil residue after decades of use.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check