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Thread: Savage 340 Trigger

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Savage 340 Trigger

    Is there a good replacement trigger out there for a Savage 340?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    405grain's Avatar
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    No one makes an aftermarket trigger for that firearm. I've seen online where some people have improved the factory trigger just a little bit with some cleaning and polishing, but it is still heavy and still has some creep. Unless you're skilled and knowledgeable I'd recommend against trying a do-it-yourself trigger job because changing the engagement angles or removing too much material can create an unsafe trigger.

  3. #3
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    http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Gun%..._bolt_act.html
    This article and the one that follows it if you go back to firearm articles tell a lot about the 340. Trigger information is about 1/2 of the way down.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I started to try working on mine years ago but decided to leave well enough alone since it's such an economy designed gun and not really meant to be worked on or modified. I haven't read the article referred to above but will do so and if there is something that can be done to improve it, I'd sure be open to give it a try. They do have a lot of room for improvement in the trigger pull.

    Actually I have two of them. One a 30-30 and a 22 Hornet. The 30-30 was my 1st centerfire rifle bought when I was 16. My best friend had one in 222. As teenage gun nuts such economy rifles were the best we could hope for.

  5. #5
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    I soldered a piece of feeler gauge on the trigger to cut the sear engagement down. It improved the trigger quite a bit as far as weight and creep. It had 1 big downside, the safety will no longer engage! Since I only use it as a range gun it's not a problem. If I ever sell the gun I will simply remove the soldered feeler gauge piece.
    "Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle

  6. #6
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    The trigger is pinned together and not well designed for tinkering.

    I have two rifles and one is a 30-30. Its heavy but shootable.
    The second is a "b" and it is a 22 Hornet. THAT ONE arrived in baggies... took me most of a year to acquire all the missing parts. Because the trigger group was in pieces I polished as I assembled and I managed to improve the trigger but as previously mentioned the safety is not "safe" and it and bolt lock, only sometimes works.

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  7. #7
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I'm not aware of any aftermarket triggers for the Savage 340 family of rifles.

    At least some of them can be improved, not made great, but improved from factory. If you do this, make sure whoever works on it understands mechanical relationships. It is very easy to go too far and prevent the safety from working, not so easy to help the trigger pull and still have a working safety.

    I did it on a .222 about twenty years ago, but it involves a lot of studying part interaction. I would not be comfortable telling someone how to do it over the internet.

    My current 325 in .30-30 still has a stock trigger.

    Robert

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Thanks for all your thoughts & advise. Think I'll just leave everything as is and enjoy the rifle.

  9. #9
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    Here is one reason why I believe no one is making aftermarket trigger parts for the 340.
    The parts are not identically interchangeable between the different series.

    Years ago, I owned two rifles, one was a 340-E and the other was a 340-D
    The D was a 222rem with a horrendously heavy trigger.
    The E was a 223rem with a pretty decent trigger,
    I wished the 222 had as nice of a trigger as the 223.
    I disassembled both, hoping I could swap the trigger/sear parts.
    What I learned from this experiment.

    The sear/trigger sets from the E and the D are different shape, but they do fit into the action similarly on pins.
    I was NOT able to mix the parts, it would not function.
    But I was able to swap the matched sets, due to differences in the action, when the sets were swapped, the trigger on one of them was positioned in the trigger guard so far forward, that my finger would not fit, and the other was far back, it did function, but it would end up tight on the wood stock.
    I tested them swapped, and the one trigger set that was pretty decent in the E, wasn't very decent in the D.

    So, basically trigger parts are not necessarily interchangeable from one series to an other series.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT Gianni View Post
    http://www.leeroysramblings.com/Gun%..._bolt_act.html
    This article and the one that follows it if you go back to firearm articles tell a lot about the 340. Trigger information is about 1/2 of the way down.
    That's a great article and well worth reading all the way through... There are 2 of these rifles in my family now both owned by my grandsons. The 325C has a Lyman peep like shown in the article but it's out of adjustment and seems to need to be shimmed an 1/8" to the left. Until I read the article, I wasn't 100% sure it was really for this rifle. I bought a B-Square scope mount for the other rifle (an early 340) but it's not yet tapped for it.

    These are surprisingly good shooters for the price point they were made for... I'm half tempted to get another and rebarrel it to .25-35.

    Tony
    Hi, my name is Tony and I'm addicted to gunpowder.

    AKA Geezerbiker

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check