LEE mold annoyance

[megasupermagnum]

Well when I get around to casting my fall bullet supply I will check into all of these possibilities. Low Temperatures are not the problem but possible contamination of alloy might be. I can cast perfect bullets out of my NOE mold which I alternated with when using the LEE mold. Both aluminum and both 35 caliber molds.

No, temperature is the problem. Contamination has nothing to do with this.

[gwpercle]

But the Lee molds now have a reduced mass by milling off part of the bottom of the blocks for the 2 cavity molds. This would not be relevant if you are using a Lee 6 cav and a NOE 4 or more cav mold. Those would have similar block mass to deal with.

I noticed this with the last two cavity Lee I ordered ... it's almost like the blocks have Too Little mass ... For Aluminum , they don't hold heat for long ...I really liked them when the blocks were new style but were just a little larger. You find something you like ...and they change it ...
Happens Every Time !

I think they made a mistake ... but there is always NOE ... them heavy weight bad boys carry some weight !
Gary

[fredj338]

I have a 35-200 mold I have owned for 5 months or so. This one has far too many rejects and I can't figure it out. I have cleaned and oiled it several times but the problem still persists. fully half or a bit more of the bullets come out with a little "c" mark on one of the bands between the lube grooves almost dead center. Mold cleans up beautifully. Any ideas? Send it back?

WHy I struggle with Lee molds. I have a 6cav 9mm that I just cant get to run without wrinkles here & there. Yet my 40/175 runs like a scalded cat. Go figure. I prepped the molds the same, cast the same, but the 9mm mold just sucks.

[rickt300]

Raise the heat, speed up your fill rate with the mold angled down a little, and going from the front cavity to the rear.
Leaving a generous sprue puddle helps with keeping the heat up too.

I get 'em hot enough to frost a little, then back the heat off until it stops.

Exactly what I do.

[Shiloh]

No I detail cleaned it and applied 2 stroke oil in the correct fashion. Might be a vent line is plugged, think I will get it out and take a good look at it.

LEE molds can be finicky. Scribing vents has greatly improved a few of mine. They are cheap but cast good usable boolits.

Shiloh

[openbook]

I have a 2-cav Lee 457405 that gives me the same trouble, a lot of rejects with little wrinkles in the driving bands. I was just casting with it this morning. I'll try scribing the vent lines. Trouble with this mold is, I have to wait quite a while for the sprue to cool or else I'm smearing the base of the boolit. I have to wonder if the sprue cool time is a hard limit that prevents the mold from reaching proper temp.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve found that different molds can have their own personalities. As already mentioned, higher heat and a higher fill rate may help. Consider contacting Lee. I’ve always heard that they are good at replacing stuff.

[6622729]

That "C" you describe is the lead skinning off when it contacts the mold. As many have said, you need more heat in the lead and the mold.

[charlie b]

My success with casting consistency was finally achieved when I started cooling my mold immediately after the sprue solidified.

I monitor the length of time it takes the sprue to solidify. For me the 'sweet spot' is around 6 seconds. If it takes longer I invert the mold and lay it on a wet towel (soaking wet) for 2-3 seconds. FWIW, this is done more with molds that have thicker sprue plates. The steel holds heat longer than the Al molds.

For the OP, I suspect the comment about the bottom pour pot might be the cause. My Lee pot will start to drip a little at times. If there is any lead drip starting I 'wipe' it with the mold before I pour. That little drip is 'cold' lead and will cause a cold spot in the bullet.

CAUTION: Having wet stuff around molten lead is a hazard. Never have even a single drop of water on a mold over a pot. Never cool a mold that is empty. Water may wick into the cavity.

[Brokenbear]

Yup ..more heat
Wipe the drip with the mold going in each cast
Space between sprue plate and pot spout 1/4 to 3/8"
More aggressive pour rate
Dime size puddle on each sprue hole and cut the sprue 2 seconds after sprue puddle frosts
Tip mold a skosh down in front,back,left and right to see if problem leaves or moves via awl scratch center of bullet base toward handles so you can see if it moves

It is fixable but you will have to adjust one thing at a time ..kind of scientific like

Bear

[technojock]

While I've been casting bullets off and on for many years, I'm by no means an expert... However I've found that some Lee molds work like a charm and others seem to be cursed. I have a .309 160g mold that I've had for a couple decades and I've never gotten a good bullet out of it even though I keep trying. On the other hand, I've found Lee round nose pistol bullets drop out like magic. Some work great after a little lapping and some never do produce good bullets. For the price they're hard to resist.

The .44 Handirifle I had was one with an oversized bore and I bought a Lee mold for it with the intention of lapping it out a couple thousands. After a lot of work, I only managed to lap it out a couple ten-thousands but it's really shiny and drops very nice bullets...

Tony

[rickt300]

Well it is casting time again. I looked over 2 hole mold and found the two haves are not mating perfectly, that I can see light through the mold bottom. I ordered a 6 hole Mold for the same bullet and had zero problems casting a bunch of good bullets, more than I can shoot this year for sure. Guess I will send the two holer back.

[indian joe]

I have a bunch of LEE molds (round ball and bullet) most of the bullet molds improved heaps after I drilled the sprue plate hole a couple sizes bigger. I tried it on another brand brass mold and it was the worst idea. They all different!