Questions on reloading glock 10mm

[Tripplebeards]

After years of wanting one and finally got a chance to shoot one last year I finally pulled the trigger the other day. No ammo to to be found so I bought a Hornady custom die set. I have primers, powder, and j words on the way. Just down to finding some 10 mm brass. Well, maybe I didn’t do my homework after years of procrastinating but from the video I watched this morning from fortunecookie45LC I am not wondering if I have to buy a barrel right off the bat? Basically from the informative video he is showing that the chambering in glocks are so loose that brass gets “bulged and wrecked” on the very first firing and buying an aftermarket wolf barrel with a tighter chambering is needed for reloads and cast boolits. Sounds like this pertained to 40mm calibers mostly. I bought a hornady custom die set. Would think FL resizing the brass would put my brass back to specs? So can some you experienced glock 10mm owners please enlighten me on the matter?

[1006]

So,
First- 10mm, 9x23, and a couple of other cartridges have “beefed up” base in the lower web section to enable it to be fired in unsupported chambers typically found in the 1911. You should not have to worry about a 10mm Glock.

Second-Glock tightened up the chambers on their 40S&W’s many, many years ago to reduce the bulge effects. An after market barrel may have a tighter chamber, but it is not generally needed.I think if you go all the way back to a Gen2 Glock, you might want an aftermarket barrel.

Commentary, not pertinent, but perhaps useful: the only aftermarket barrel that I would buy for a 10mm is a 40S&W barrel. That will save you some money and make the gun easier to find ammo to shoot.

[Tripplebeards]

Can I shoot 40 S&W in my 10mm providing I clean it quite often to avoid any build on the throat lip edge that would cause pressure?

[MGD]

I have reloaded 10mm & 40 since the were introduced. You can not resized the casehead with standard dies. The shell holder and the bevel on the bottom of the die are the reason. When the Redding GRx die came out, I used that. I have since replaced the GRx with a Case Pro 100 roll sizer. I was able to reload for years without these tools. Using these tools, the percentage of rounds that will not gauge in a headspace gauge is virtually nil. Most people don't like or understand the idea of these tools as they are an additional process. You still have to resize the brass after using a GRx or Rollsizing tool. Everyone of my friends that I have had use these tools are amazed at the amount of work necessary for some cases. Also, some brass hardly gets worked then you get some that are very hard. Used 40 S&W and 10mm brass is VERY inconsistent. Yes, much different from 9mm, 38Super, and 45ACP run through the Case Pro. The first step I would advise you is to take is get a Headspace gauge. As to 40 S&W brass in a 10 mm gun. There is a reason that NO ballistician, or manufacturer recommends it.
Just my experience gleaned from reloading the cartridges. YMMV

[TyGuy]

I have reloaded brass shot from my G20 multiple times now. No issues yet using cheap Lee dies.

[1006]

I just load my 40 and 10mm in Dillon dies on a 650 with no issues. I am firing the 10mm in a gunsmith fit match grade 10mm barrel 1911. I also shoot 40’s in a similar 1911 setup in addition to a Glock 35 and 22.

I used to shoot 40’s in the 10mm barrel of the 1911 and they worked OKAY but not perfectly. Occasionally, the primer would pierce due to the improper head-spacing.

[44MAG#1]

I have 3 Glock Gen 4 10MM.
Go ahead and load the gun and shoot it. I do. I use mostly 200 grain FN cast and I like Power Pistol, Longshot and AA#9.
No problems.
There will be those who shoot very little, own few firearms to those who own more firearms than the US Army and shoot more than the whole US Military branches combined and own thousands of dollars of equipment make comments on this subject.

[jonp]

I have a Poly80 clone 10mm. I shoot both 40SW and 10mm through it with no problem, I don't recommend it if you follow my meaning. I have not found it to have any problems with any brass. The "Glock Bulge" doesn't appear as I think they fixed that problem of the unsupported chamber in the barrels. This depend on which generation of Glock you bought. I think it is Gen 3 and later that this was resolved but check on that

[Evoken]

Like MGD, I have found some issues with the bases not getting sized properly and thus do not chamber correctly in some pistols. I have never used Redding's glock doctor dies and roll sizers are big big $$. Lee makes the bulge buster. Need the buster and one of their carbide dies, can't remember if sizer or seater, with the guts pulled out. Does a real nice job of flattening out the brass at the base.

I believe the glock smile problem was corrected by the time the gen 3 barrels came out. I still find a few in range brass here and there and just to be sure they get smashed and go in the scrap bucket.

[44MAG#1]

I use Hornady dies for the 10MM. They work fine for the 10MM and the 40 S&W.
No problems.

[Tripplebeards]

I can’t find brass or loaded ammo for it but bought dies. I went through my range brass yesterday and found 16 pieces. Two had a semi circle indent around the the budged base. I would assume that was the “smile”. I tossed themed out immediately.I would have rather bought the lee die set with the budge buster but the hornady was the only set they had.

[Hickok]

I have a Glock in 10mm. Stock OEM Glock barrel. I shoot pc'ed cast 180gr, sized .402", Bluedot powder, no case bulge...life is good!

(My dies are Lee, I use them for .40 Smith and 10mm.)

[jdfoxinc]

Both 10mm and .40 S&W head space on the case mouth like .45 ACP. I bulge bust by removing the guts of my lee die and using it as a push through.

[Evoken]

I can’t find brass or loaded ammo for it but bought dies. I went through my range brass yesterday and found 16 pieces. Two had a semi circle indent around the the budged base. I would assume that was the “smile”. I tossed themed out immediately.I would have rather bought the lee die set with the budge buster but the hornady was the only set they had.

Brass is very hard to find. Those that have it do not want to give it up. When you find it for sale it is pricey.

I dont shoot 10 very often for this reason.

[44MAG#1]

Since I don't have any brass with the "Glock Bulge" I just size my brass normally and load it. Finished cartridges look and function fine.

[44MAG#1]

One thing I would urge one not to do is to over think this thing and not start quaking, swaying and worrying about this. This is a center-fire cartridge and loads like a center fire cartridge. Be careful working up your loads. Use a reasonable OAL. I use 1.250" with Hornady 180 and 200 XTP's. I love the 200 grain in cast and jacketed.
Mainly use WLP primers. And a stiff taper crimp.
Just don't over think.

[414gates]

160 grain target loads and 200gr XTP to 1100 fps in my gen3. Never seen bulged brass.

[Cast10]

I have been reloading 10mm for a Glock 20 and a 16” carbine.

Been casting and shooting lead/PC (powder coated) boolits for over a year. With the G20, NEVER A PROBLEM, and using a stock G20 barrel. My G20 is a Gen 3 and is plenty wide in the chamber. The carbine was another issue, but a little polish in the chamber seems to have made it eat without fails too.

When I started here, I too heard of the chamber stuff on the Glock 20 and need for an aftermarket barrel. I have not seen that need and my 180gr. boolits are moving at 1250ish. They go ‘plunk’. No problems.

I see no need to go ‘nuclear’ with a 10mm. I have shot hogs with no problems. Starline brass is the best. I have been reloading 10mm jacketed for over 15 years and never had a ‘smiley’.

As far as cast, I’m kinda new. These guys here are ‘spot-on’ with most everything. I’ve learned a lot. There are some ‘great’ 10mm guys here, too! I use a Lee 401-175-TC 6 cavity mold and a Lee sizer kit at 401.

Best wishes and Happy Easter to all!

[Evoken]

I believe some folks are mistaking the dreaded "bulge" for an unsized portion of the brass.

As you all know when you fire a round the brass expands to the chamber. Some early striker fired pistols, not just glock, have a large unsupported portion of the chamber. This is where the bulge, guppy belly, smile comes from. Most of you are already aware of this. If I find brass like this in 40 or 10 it gets trashed.

Here is why I use the bulge buster. No matter how tight you screw your sizing die down there is a small portion at the base where it sits in the shell holder that will not get sized, ever. The bulge buster is a push through thing that gets this last little part ironed out. Not much of a problem in many guns, however I have a ruger in 40 and my kimber 10mm that want this done to function reliably 100% of the time. Both have tight chambers and are very accurate guns. I believe this situation is exacerbated by the higher pressures these cartridges use compared to say 9mm and 45acp.

Again, I'm certain most of you fellas already know this, but in case some newer guys do not.

[44MAG#1]

I believe some folks are mistaking the dreaded "bulge" for an unsized portion of the brass.

As you all know when you fire a round the brass expands to the chamber. Some early striker fired pistols, not just glock, have a large unsupported portion of the chamber. This is where the bulge, guppy belly, smile comes from. Most of you are already aware of this. If I find brass like this in 40 or 10 it gets trashed.

Here is why I use the bulge buster. No matter how tight you screw your sizing die down there is a small portion at the base where it sits in the shell holder that will not get sized, ever. The bulge buster is a push through thing that gets this last little part ironed out. Not much of a problem in many guns, however I have a ruger in 40 and my kimber 10mm that want this done to function reliably 100% of the time. Both have tight chambers and are very accurate guns. I believe this situation is exacerbated by the higher pressures these cartridges use compared to say 9mm and 45acp.

Again, I'm certain most of you fellas already know this, but in case some newer guys do not.

I have not had any trouble sizing my cases properly with Hornady dies.
The dies are not heavily radiused at the die mouth. I have an old RCBS 45 Auto die that is that way though