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Thread: Tin roof repair.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master





    Idaho45guy's Avatar
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    Tin roof repair.

    Had some very high winds earlier this week. My dad lives in a former archery factory in the office area that has been converted to an apartment. He called me and said there is a loud banging sound now coming from the roof and wanted me to come over to fix it.

    I drove out before work, thinking there was a loose panel that I could just put some screws into.

    Got out there and couldn't believe the damage.

    Attachment 298925

    Got the bigger piece folded back over and secured, but still a lot of exposed area.

    Attachment 298926

    Drove to town and bought 12" x 12" tin patches plus some caulking. I will go back out there before work in the AM and screw down the patches and caulk everything.

    I would love to just replace the whole panel, but that style and width is no longer available.

    Hoping that some patch panels, screws, and lots of caulking will take care of it.

    Any thoughts on a better approach?
    "Luck don't live out here. Wolves don't kill the unlucky deer; they kill the weak ones..." Jeremy Renner in Wind River

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    Silicone caulk is like duct tape in a tube. I have heard good things about Flex Seal but I don't have any experience with it.
    Paper targets aren't your friends. They won't lie for you and they don't care if your feelings get hurt.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    They make a product that also utilizes a nylon mesh that is embedded in the compound. It's very good at spanning gaps and holes. I have used it on box and horse trailers. It last for years and holds up to "80 mph" wind. If you need more information about the product, PM me and I will dig out the can and mesh. One last thought, screws are vastly superior to nails in performing the repairs.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy para45lda's Avatar
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    It may cost you but there are still companies that roll corrugated. PM me and I'll give you my digits. This is what I do
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    It sounds like your plan is about the best you can do. It would be nice to replace the whole panel but if you can't find one you can't fine one.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    lowes still sells ripple tin.. in 26x8 sheets.. that ans some tin snips and a bucket of tar may make a good patch.. screws or nails with gaskets. that tin looks awfully brittle... try not to do any more damage while repairing. ( obviously.. - be safe )

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Sheet metal......people......it's called sheet metal. Rolled steel, rippled or not, with a hot zinc coating. No tin involved there these days! The new unknowing folks on here will get the idea that there is a cheap and ready source for tin casting metal.

    Good luck on your repairs! If done right, it will last for years. We have some marvelous modern patching materials available today.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Thumbcocker View Post
    Silicone caulk is like duct tape in a tube. I have heard good things about Flex Seal but I don't have any experience with it.
    I used flex seal before and it seems like it’s (butyl?) caulk, stay semi soft never gets fully hard.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    Sheet metal......people......it's called sheet metal. Rolled steel, rippled or not, with a hot zinc coating. No tin involved there these days! The new unknowing folks on here will get the idea that there is a cheap and ready source for tin casting metal.

    Good luck on your repairs! If done right, it will last for years. We have some marvelous modern patching materials available today.

    We know it's galvanized sheet metal... No need to go "word Nazi "

  10. #10
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Plate plinker View Post
    I used flex seal before and it seems like it’s (butyl?) caulk, stay semi soft never gets fully hard.
    Yes it is butyl rubber.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Us old timer’s call it “sheet iron”. Just make sure the underneath edge is turned up, if you don’t want it to leak.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soundguy View Post
    We know it's galvanized sheet metal... No need to go "word Nazi "
    There are a lot of newbie casters on here hard-up for tin sources and many are not as wise as you & I and might "ass"ume that stuff is really tin, like in the VERY old daze.


    No word Nazi here. Just looking out for our newer fellow casters.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
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    Silicon wont last very long before it comes loose, been there done that. Roofing tar is what you want, messy but it works and sticks to EVERYTHING.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Screws, galvanized metal, fibered roofing tar, then fibered aluminum coating so you don't have a lot of black tar showing.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  15. #15
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by bangerjim View Post
    There are a lot of newbie casters on here hard-up for tin sources and many are not as wise as you & I and might "ass"ume that stuff is really tin, like in the VERY old daze.


    No word Nazi here. Just looking out for our newer fellow casters.
    Too late already tried melting down the neighbors tractor shed roof

  16. #16
    Boolit Master





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    Got it fixed and tried to seal up all the other obvious leak areas.

    Attachment 298993
    "Luck don't live out here. Wolves don't kill the unlucky deer; they kill the weak ones..." Jeremy Renner in Wind River

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I have a metal roof, urethane caulking seems to work best. I used it on the flange around the chimney several years ago and it had held up rather well. I still put fibered aluminum coating around it occasionally. I try to stay ahead of things best I can but unexpected things do happen. Mother Nature is always trying to take it back.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    I've been messing with roofs since I became a teenager and I'm close to 70 now.

    The roofing higher up needs to lap over top of the stuff below it. When using different materials, you have to allow for differential expansion, such as, aluminum expands and contracts at a different rate than steel or asphalt shingle. If you have to caulk make it between the layers and not on top. When the expansion and contraction takes place you don't want the caulk on the surface to pull loose from one or both surfaces and cause a damming effect and continue to leak. Like a roofer said to me once, when the roof is under water you want it to run off in the right direction.

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