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Thread: Removing neck crimp from blank/tool brass

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Removing neck crimp from blank/tool brass

    This may not be worth messing with, but I thought I'd see if any of you all had done this before. I picked up some old tool blanks for next to nothing. The headstamp is "WRA TOOL", but it's .38 S&W brass.

    I have an old Enfield revolver, and .38 S&W brass isn't particularly plentiful. It's good brass except for the heavy neck crimps. Any idea on how to remove the crimp enough to load them? I'd dump the powder of course, and use the primed brass.

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  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    1. If you can pierce the plastic plug and pry it out, the flaring die might iron out the crimp.
    It's kind of a hassle but I reloaded some .38S&W by using a 9mm flare and seater dies

    2. If you're not short on primers-- The crimp might work itself out by just firing them in your .38.

    3. Pry out the plug, and trim the case as a last resort.
    Crimping might be an issue, but don't change your OAL due to the shorter case.

    If they aren't do-able to get the cases, at least you can salvage the primers.
    Another option for .38S&W brass is to trim down .38Spec. cases.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    The cardboard plug pries out fairly easily. These are made for a power tool, to drive rivets and pins. I suspect that the tool operates at a higher pressure than an old revolver. Firing the cartridges in a revolver just makes a pop and blows mostly unburned powder down the barrel. Unfortunately the crimps are unaffected. The crimps are plenty stiff, and flaring doesn't do much for them.

    I ironed one out by sliding it over a rod in a vice, and flattening the crimps down with a small hammer. Not really worth the effort. Maybe I could modify a small pair of pliers...

  4. #4
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Yeah, those are for the big Ram Set gun. They're also available in what looks like a .22Long blank.

    Oh well,,,,,, Maybe you can save the primers.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I think for best results you will need to expand up around .370-.380 with a tapered expander rod. This will open the ring up some to even it out. then size back down to size.
    I would check wall thickness on these cases before going to far

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Expanding didn't work too well, but I couldn't leave it alone. Here's a tool that I made; it cost me $1.25 (junk China-made pliers) and 15 minutes with a grinder and Dremel. It's not very fast, but works fine.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    Not sure if it's worth the time, but those of us who like to tinker do a lot of things that really aren't worth the time, don't we?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check