All my ‘toys that go BANG’ will shoot into ONE ragged hole ALL FREAKIN’ DAY LONG ... it's just those darn additional shots that tend to open up my groups!
Very cool. Still kicking myself for not grabbing one of their microadjust tubes when I had the chance years ago.
Clever ideal, Lefty!!!
I just found a piece of brass tubing the same as the original, only longer, and fit the adjustment slide and set screw to that. I remember I did have to take just a little off the OD of the tubing I bought. As I use it almost exclusively for BP it's a rare occasion I have to change back to the shorter tube.
"In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'
The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery
NRA Benefactor 2008
great idea , sure would be nice to have a bunch of them pre set for different loads
Just picked up a B&M measure. It's a little stiff and only came with a measure made from a 444 brass. Going to try a different spring and need to make a better tube.
Where did you source the brass tube and what is the wall thickness?
Thanks!
The B&M I use most has had its return spring removed totally. I just have to remember to manually return the lever so I don’t drain the reservoir accidentally!
Mine also has a custom-made drop tube with a Starrett micrometer stem to adjust… gives the ultimate in repeatability. I’ll try to dig it out later today and add pix to this post.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
All my ‘toys that go BANG’ will shoot into ONE ragged hole ALL FREAKIN’ DAY LONG ... it's just those darn additional shots that tend to open up my groups!
In preBrandon times, HD and others had, I think, 3/8 aluminum rod and tubing, in 4' lengths. They matched up perfectly One tubing piece was a bit too tight to fit the hopper and needed a little sanding. I went nuts drilling out for thumbscrews on the tube pieces and made a bunch of dimples in the rods. Sharpie colors on the dimples. I made charts to mark out what # tube and what color dimple gave what load in all my powders. Gave up and just have several tubes locked in one place. Gonna try again, someday. I really need dozens of them. I have an original brass tube but don't like changing settings.
I purchased all the reloading gear and a few rifles from the wife of a good friend when he passed, one of these Belding and Mull throwers was in the box and it has two adjustable tubes with it and I have never tried it out. I may give it a try and if it works out I will give my Lyman thrower to nephew. Regards Stephen
They are fantastic and are, almost always, dead on. One problem is getting it mounted solidly.
I thought I had added a picture of the Starrett type drop tube insert. I’ll try again.
A standard drop tube body attaches to the silvery colored collar with a set screw and the shank and brass plug move up and down just like the slide in a “stock” drop tube, but controlled and repeatable with the Starrett thimble.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
I just use a depth mic to set the tube depth on my B&M. No need to fabricate anything. I have a lathe, so already had the mic. The depth measurement end of calipers would work as well, and just about everyone who reloads has calipers. I record the depth measurement of the tube for each load in my load book.
I made mine because the tube that came with the measure was not big enough for the BP charges I needed to throw. I loaded some BPC's last week and noticed I'd never put the original back together. Still using the one I made 30+ years ago.
"In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'
The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery
NRA Benefactor 2008
I use brass tube from On line metals they sell by the foot lengths. I make the standard slide tubes, thread adjustable in the bleding and mull style and a true micrometer adjust with 3/8 40 threads.
My large capacity bp tube uses a second tube with the bottom end plugged. This tube starts at just under what a fully opened tube throws and goes up from there. Reversing the inner tube gives a normal measure.
1/2" stop collars make a nice base ring and good solid 1/4 20 threads for the thump screw. a length of ready rod makes the stem. JB weld epoxy makes the head. I make either a flat head or a cupped one using a bearing ball to form it.
My B&M has the micrometer adjustable measure. After I have the charge I want for a specific powder, I measure the depth with a dial caliper and record it. I have a chart with dozens of powder/depth settings. It takes about 30 seconds to set the measure for a previously recorded charge. Easy peasy.
Some great ideas for making up a couple tubes. I will definitely be following some of this advice.
Thanks for sharing.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |