Not exactly a refined rifle

[AbitNutz]

So I have a Marlin SBL 1895 45-70 all stainless rifle. It was made in 2018 when Remington was still around to make things as poor quality as possible. However, it is better finished than most I have seen. It's nowhere near as nice as the old JM Marlin rifles are like. I took out the bolt and internal bits and the edges could pass for razorblades. The outside isn’t bad but any moving parts could use some serious smoothing out.
My question is: What’s the easiest way to do this? Take it down to bits and start hitting the sharp parts with 500 to 1000 grit wet and dry? Or maybe put some sort of mild abrasive, like JB Bore Compound or something else more aggressive like JB Bore Bright on the bolt, block, etc, and run the action till my hand gets tired?
Interestingly enough, the trigger is really pretty nice and I have no intention of playing with the trigger/hammer/sear relationship. I’d just like it to run smoother

Any recommendation would be appreciated.

[cwtebay]

Have you disassembled the rifle completely? I'm not speaking specifically to your rifle model, but sometimes screws are overtightened or loose or malpositioned while tightening screws, etc. Yes, application of jeweler's rouge to those areas and cycling many, many, many, many....(you get the idea) times. The same can be accomplished without the abrasive compound with more cycling. I have only handled one newer production 1895 and it felt like someone poured gravel into the action - so I'm betting you're not alone in your plight. Hopefully someone will be along shortly that has some experience with it.

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[AbitNutz]

Have you disassembled the rifle completely? I'm not speaking specifically to your rifle model, but sometimes screws are overtightened or loose or malpositioned while tightening screws, etc. Yes, application of jeweler's rouge to those areas and cycling many, many, many, many....(you get the idea) times. The same can be accomplished without the abrasive compound with more cycling. I have only handled one newer production 1895 and it felt like someone poured gravel into the action - so I'm betting you're not alone in your plight. Hopefully someone will be along shortly that has some experience with it.

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Yes, I sure have disassembled it. There are parts so sharp you could shave with them. I have an older JM Marlin and it is completely different. The bits on the inside of the SBL are like handling shards of glass.

The rifle is simple to take down. The bolt comes out, the ejector is held in place by the bolt. There are really no screws on the inside. There are a few on the outside you have to be really careful with else you mess up the slots.

I think I'm just going to take it apart and put some abrasive compound of the working surfaces and run the action. I'll if that takes the grit out of it.

[cwtebay]

Yes, I sure have disassembled it. There are parts so sharp you could shave with them. I have an older JM Marlin and it is completely different. The bits on the inside of the SBL are like handling shards of glass.

The rifle is simple to take down. The bolt comes out, the ejector is held in place by the bolt. There are really no screws on the inside. There are a few on the outside you have to be really careful with else you mess up the slots.

I think I'm just going to take it apart and put some abrasive compound of the working surfaces and run the action. I'll if that takes the grit out of it.

Looking forward to hearing your results!

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[pietro]

.

FWIW, I've bought several new Marlin's over the past 50-odd years, and every one of them needed smoothing out - why older/used Marlin's are smooth from use.

To smooth them, I simply kept rapidly cycling the (empty) action for a few hours each night for about a week (+/-), while watching TV.


This, of course annoyed my family to no end...…..

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[Rcmaveric]

I use a fine sharpening stone. Every gun I always fully disassemble and clean all the oils and greasese out of. Get rid of any preservatives or cutting fluids. Then i check all the edges and hit them with a honeing stone to polish them. Hi Points are the worst so far. Then I lube and oil as necessary.

New guns get their actions worked for a day or two while watch TV. My wife bought a Sccy. That took me a few days to get the action broken enough for her to be able rack it. For rifles, most have been good and justt need some smaller trigger parts polished.

Only edges i dont break are sears. Those normally get sharpened and polished. Its the crisp sharp edge and smooth that makes sharp breaks. Hi Points get way better after that TLC.

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[MostlyLeverGuns]

I have quite a few 50's, 60's and 70's Marlin's and Savage 99's, a few 80's, all have had their burrs and sharp edges when completely disassembled, even those that work smoothly and have been used. Usage smooths edges and surfaces that rub together, but there are still a lot of sharp surfaces inside. MASS production after WW II was concerned with cost cutting and high production, only the development AND USE of CNC machines and other modern processes has allowed for better finish in the modern arms. I use Q-tips to run over edges, if fibers are caught, I use a ceramic stone or fine diamond file to lightly smooth or break the edge, along with hundreds of action workings. Just working a new rifle a few hundred times makes a big difference in smoothness. Sometimes just cleaning old grit and hardened oil can make a difference. I haven't found any oils that I trust to not harden after a couple years, maybe ATF?

[Baltimoreed]

I have one of the Colt 1911 1918 reproductions. A beautiful piece but it will cut you right now if you tear it down. It’s drawn blood every time I’ve shot and cleaned it. Don’t shoot it anymore. If it was stainless id hit those corners with some 600-1000 grit oiled paper but its blued.

[Bent Ramrod]

I got this little thing called a “Shaviv” from one of the Industrial Supply companies. It’s a tiny curved blade that swivels on a screwdriver handle.

In use, you take your just-made (or inadequately factory-deburred) part in your weak hand, hold the “Shaviv” in your strong hand so the inside of the blade curve is against the sharp edge, and pull it towards you along the edge, keeping the same pressure all the way along.

It takes a little getting used to, but it will take the burr off and blunt the sharp edge very evenly the full length of the part. The same evenness can perhaps be gotten with a file or stone, but you will likely have to mount the part in a vise, and even so, be pretty good with them to do the job. The “Shaviv” is sort of self-limiting; you might miss a spot if your grip isn’t the same all along, but another stroke will take that part off without taking off any more of the already deburred edge.