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Thread: Mag-spark

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
    I like the mag spark better, simply because the primers are larger and easier to handle. Especially when your fingers are frozen. The 209 primers also have a rim, where the small rifle primers drop in flush with the top of the cup. This becomes a problem when they get stuck and you have to pry them out with a thin knife blade. When the 209 gets stuck, they're much easier to pry out, usually a finger nail will do. From an ignition stand point, I can't see any difference, but i suspect the advantage goes to the 209 for hotter flame and longer burn time.
    The thing not mentioned (except by me) is like a patched ball stick the patch (your 209) in your mouth and then occasionally spit in the Magspark cap . You will shoot all day and never get stuck again!! /Ed

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy tigweldit's Avatar
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    I have only one year of experience with Mag Spark in a TC Hawken. Like a lot so far. Just learned some good tips from this post.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooman76 View Post
    Thanks, that is what I suspected. What about Musket caps? Many people like those just for the same reason.
    I like musket caps and still use them for casual target shooting. They're just easier to deal with when volume shooting. I only use the mag spark for hunting.
    Deplorable infidel

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy Toolmaker TN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdadio View Post
    I like the mag spark better, simply because the primers are larger and easier to handle. Especially when your fingers are frozen. The 209 primers also have a rim, where the small rifle primers drop in flush with the top of the cup. This becomes a problem when they get stuck and you have to pry them out with a thin knife blade. When the 209 gets stuck, they're much easier to pry out, usually a finger nail will do. From an ignition stand point, I can't see any difference, but i suspect the advantage goes to the 209 for hotter flame and longer burn time.
    I agree, the centerfire primers would be a pain to get out if they stuck. The few 209 primers I had stick, I just used a fingernail and they came right out.
    I'm looking at one of the 209 cappers for field use, should make handling primers out in the field much easier.

    https://www.tdcmfg.com/product-page/...-primer-capper

    This is the Ted Cash version. I have also seen one from Traditions.
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  5. #25
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    As I posted earlier you can wet the primer before putting it in the adapter and also if target shooting you can wipe the soot out of the adapter to help.
    John

  6. #26
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    I'm finding this interesting. Has anyone tried this system in a T/C Renegade? Did you have enough hammer travel?
    Thanks,
    Rick

  7. #27
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    Have used mag sparks for many years. 2-54 (side lock) equipped T/c's and my Big Bore 58. Although I found such 209 nipple creates a little too much ignition for my 45 Hawken. So the 45 has again been retrofitted with its #11 Red Hot nipple.
    What about Musket caps? RWS are the musket caps to use. If you can find em. Today's CCI musket caps on the other hand are (in my opinion) reduced in ignition compared to what CCI sold some years back.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverMax View Post
    Have used mag sparks for many years. 2-54 (side lock) equipped T/c's and my Big Bore 58. Although I found such 209 nipple creates a little too much ignition for my 45 Hawken. So the 45 has again been retrofitted with its #11 Red Hot nipple.
    What about Musket caps? RWS are the musket caps to use. If you can find em. Today's CCI musket caps on the other hand are (in my opinion) reduced in ignition compared to what CCI sold some years back.
    The weak CCI musket caps are labeled "for reenactment use" on the tin. Made for shooting blanks. Their regular caps are normal strength.
    Deplorable infidel

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RickinTN View Post
    I'm finding this interesting. Has anyone tried this system in a T/C Renegade? Did you have enough hammer travel?
    Thanks,
    Rick
    I'm using the Accu-shot on a LH Renegade. I purchased an extra hammer and reworked the face of it. Basically, taking off the recessed portion. No experience with the Mag- Spark. They weren't made back then.

    Winelover

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy cas's Avatar
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    I bought a Mag-spark a couple years ago for hunting in weather like yesterday, rain and melting snow dripping from the trees all day. I like to "mute" the spark with a tiny bit of painters tape over the bottom of the primer. I honestly never did any testing to see if it helped or hurt but... I know muting the flash of rifle primers in my BPCR loads certainly did, so why not do it with the ML as well.


    Never did with the Accu-shots and pistol primers, but I was using hateful Pyrodex back then in guns that needed all the help they could get to go off.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolmaker TN View Post
    The part I found that was great was being able to use obsolete shotgun primers in this system. I have several thousand Rem No. 57 and No. 69 primers, which can't be used in modern hulls. The diameter is too small for the primer pocket in currently produced hulls. they fit the adapters, and just drop out when I turn the gun over after removing the caps no matter how many shots were fired. I would think that if anyone could find these (maybe in old gun shops) they should be able to get them for cheap, since they're pretty much unusable unless someone has 50 year old hulls that they're still loading.
    .
    Makes me think opening up the pocket in the adapter by a thou or two would make newer primers drop out with the same ease.

  12. #32
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    ABSOLUTELY DO NOT , altering will get you hurt ,like I said it's easy spit in the cap (occasionally)and stick the 209 in your mouth while loading (SIMPLE and works ) Jeeze /Ed

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check