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Thread: Dillon Presses and bad shoulders, bad mix for sure

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    Lefty Red's Avatar
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    Dillon Presses and bad shoulders, bad mix for sure

    Question for Dillon RL1100, xl650, and xl750 users……how easier is the RL1100 to use vs the xl650-750 or even the 550c.

    Have one replaced shoulder, other one is getting replaced in 2022. Need the smoothest and easiest press from the ones above.

    Thanks for looking,
    Lefty
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mark 7 makes any one of them easy on the shoulders

    Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter74 View Post
    Mark 7 makes any one of them easy on the shoulders

    Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk
    You speak the truth! That’s a workout running all of those stations with one pull! LOL
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  4. #4
    Boolit Master AnthonyB's Avatar
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    Lefty, the RL1100 is much easier to operate than the 550. The problem with the 550 for me is in pulling the expanded brass off of the powder funnel on the downstroke. This is using unlubed handgun brass and carbide dies. The 1100 is much smoother, probably because of the pre-expansion that occurs with the swage die. I have not done a caliber conversion on the 1100, but they appear to be more painful than the other Dillons. No rifle ammo on mine either.
    Tony

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Lefty,
    Ponsness Warren makes an Auto Drive for the 1050. I have one on my 800+ and it works well. Should be YouTube videos on it.

    I am on the lookout for a used one for my 1050. I do not know anyone who has one on the 1050, but PW seems like a reputable firm so I am confident it will work well. Might want to call them. Easy folks to work with.
    Don Verna


  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    Lefty,
    Ponsness Warren makes an Auto Drive for the 1050. I have one on my 800+ and it works well. Should be YouTube videos on it.

    I am on the lookout for a used one for my 1050. I do not know anyone who has one on the 1050, but PW seems like a reputable firm so I am confident it will work well. Might want to call them. Easy folks to work with.
    That looks pretty sweet! Will check them out.
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy Blindshooter's Avatar
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    Love my 1050. Much easier on my bad joints.
    Looks like the roller setup on the 1100 would be even better.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blindshooter View Post
    Love my 1050. Much easier on my bad joints.
    Looks like the roller setup on the 1100 would be even better.
    That’s what I was wanting to know. Looks like I’m going to get one for sure. Thank you.
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    I’ve been using the roller handles for 15 years on my 550 and 650. They do reduce the strain a little but I personally think the rollers help my wrist more than the shoulder.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    A 650 with lubed brass and collated case/bullet feed isn’t that hard on the shoulders. I actually prefer the round ball and the casting bolted directly to the bench.

    Around 4 minutes of operating the handle will give you 100 rounds loaded. If your shoulder can’t handle that, stop, with the handle down/ram up. Come back and resume when your ready.


  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    That said, if my shoulders were that bad, I would just use my PLC controlled 1050.


  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    JMorris, was hoping you responded. I know you have the Blue Crews and your input is highly respected by me.

    I am looking hard at the xl750, since it’s one of my favorites and a better price point when you figure in conversation kits. But the one thing keeping leaning toward the RL1100 is the only press swager for the 9mm brass. Seems to be very popular with manufacturers to make the primer pocket as hard to reload as possible! I seem to be Im getting more and more brass that needs swagered these days.

    I’m really leaning towards one RL1100 for 9mm, and later 300BO, and then a xl750 for the rest.

    Thank you again,
    Lefty
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I find that lubed brass makes a huge difference.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    David2011, totally agree with and Ergo Handle. I gave them on all of my presses.
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  15. #15
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    Man, that bullet feeder sure increases production. Not sure I will ever need one. I like the round handle and the strong mount, but I run the press standing not seated.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    … but I run the press standing not seated.
    This is a great point, you might try being a different height in relation to the handle. I use my presses seated but do adjust the height of the chair to suit the press I am using.

    I am looking hard at the xl750, since it’s one of my favorites and a better price point when you figure in conversation kits. But the one thing keeping leaning toward the RL1100 is the only press swager for the 9mm brass.
    It’s not just the cost of conversions but the 1050/1100 presses are more difficult to convert as well, they also only come with one primer size where the others have both large and small when purchased. The swaging station does help a lot if crimped primers are a concern. Also helps with cases with tight pockets, like S&B brass.

    I have 3 1050’s because I don’t like to do caliber conversions on them once I have everything the way I want it. I swap the 650’s more because they are easier but I resist it unless I am loading at least a few thousand rounds.

    Do to the lack of a case feeder and a very simple swap on the priming system, the 550 is the progressive I use if I am loading more than I want to on a single stage or turret but not enough To convert one of the others.



    It’s a “Tortoise and the Hare” kind of thing. If your boy loading a couple hundred a faster conversion but slower rate can still win the race. If your loading 10,000 you’ll leave the 550 in the dust.

    With the PLC controlled 1050, I can load 300 rounds for the match, while I am getting ready to leave. Just stopping by to add primers, and bullets a couple times. Or I can sit there and case gauge/box the rounds as they come off and can load, case gauge and box 1000 rounds with it in 52 minutes without stroking any handle.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    No “Blue” here however I have often wondered about a “power boost” of sorts?

    You still have a manual involvement but with a boost similar to an automotive power steering unit. If the force needed exceeds the norm that one is used to, you could feel it and if you are alert enough then stop before some serious damage occurs.

    I imagine there is a clutch that is adjustable (Auto Drive) but there is no substitute for hands on feel. The drive would have to be set tight enough that wrecks would still occur to some degree to achieve some level of continuous operation.

    Consider a vehicle power steering unit. It gives you a feel because it’s a booster, not the sole power source and in that case it’s mandated by regulation because if the unit fails mechanically or through loss of power you need to steer your way to a stop. In the instance of a reloading press, that feel might save some “crunches” but at the same time save some fragile body parts as well.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  18. #18
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    What I made for my SDB, is a longer slip-on handle. I take the knob off and slip it over the shaft

    it is 150% of the length of the original ( if the OEM is 12" then it would be 18")

    really does make it easier to operate.

    of course you are trading Force required for Distance of Travel but my shoulder (2 rotator cuff surgeries here) thanks me for it

    Shines when I run the 45 ACPs back through the sizing die -- acts like a Lee Bulge Buster (do remove the deprimer assembly and the other dies when I do this)
    NRA Life
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Laich View Post
    What I made for my SDB, is a longer slip-on handle. I take the knob off and slip it over the shaft

    it is 150% of the length of the original ( if the OEM is 12" then it would be 18")

    really does make it easier to operate.

    of course you are trading Force required for Distance of Travel but my shoulder (2 rotator cuff surgeries here) thanks me for it

    Shines when I run the 45 ACPs back through the sizing die -- acts like a Lee Bulge Buster (do remove the deprimer assembly and the other dies when I do this)
    The SDP is one of my favorite Blue presses. I like it better than the 550. And one thing I noticed is that with the handle in the middle, I am able to use my left arm as well.
    I'll be needing that for squirrels and such.....

  20. #20
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Lefty Red View Post
    The SDP is one of my favorite Blue presses. I like it better than the 550. And one thing I noticed is that with the handle in the middle, I am able to use my left arm as well.
    Yes, use my left arm at times when needed

    slows the process a bit but well worth it not to strain the right shoulder
    NRA Life
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check