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Thread: Making Sparkplugs: My first 100 primers

  1. #221
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by P Flados View Post
    If you individually process your NC and glass appropriately, simple mixing will work fine. That is how I do my EPH-20.

    Getting NC to a good mesh size is one of the details where there has not really been a convergence on what are the "best methods".
    Thank you! Makes it easier for sure. I'm going to get a cheap coffee grinder with some W231 and see how that goes.

    If I make some Aluminum fines will they store long term, or do they oxidize over time rendering them not usable?
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  2. #222
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    Dieselhorses's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cane_man View Post
    Thank you! Makes it easier for sure. I'm going to get a cheap coffee grinder with some W231 and see how that goes.

    If I make some Aluminum fines will they store long term, or do they oxidize over time rendering them not usable?
    Keep fines in air tight container and should be fine. I’ve used fines a year old and works good.


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  3. #223
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    I'm surprised there is no source for new caps & anvils (with no chemicals) to do this with. For percussion caps I make them myself, but there is no anvil involved and as they fit over, not in, the tolerances are way looser than they are for centerfire primers. In short, I would make primers from new components, but reloading used ones seems to be too much work, at least for me.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check