How do you come up with loads there is no data for?

[commando223]

I've been reloading rifle/pistol ammo for about 10 years now but shot shell reloading is so confusing to me. How do you guys know what to use for things like round ball, russian slugs, buck n ball etc etc that there is no data for?

I'm trying to load for 20ga I have Rio, Fiocchi, and Federal Hulls in 2 3/4" and 3" from what I've gathered these are all straight wall hulls and should use similar load data?

only shotgun powder I have is HS-6

I've seen some load data that shows 24gr as the max for a 1oz load. Is it ok to go down to 22 or 23 just to be on the safe side?

[longbow]

The short story is that you should only use published pressure tested load data with no substitutions which is what most manuals say. That is the safest approach.

The reason for this is that unlike metallic cartridge reloading all the components work together to achieve a given velocity at safe pressure. For target loads a consistent velocity of about 1100 to 1200 FPS is the goal for consistent lead.

There is a huge variety of variables here unlike with metallic cartridge reloading due to different hull designs, different wad designs, payload variations, need for consistent crimp height and differences in primers.

So any substitution in a recipe can lead to issues as simple as poor crimp to serious issues like over pressure.

209 primers are not created equal! A simple primer change (brand) can affect pressure by up to about 3000 PSI!

An overly deep crimp can also result in significantly higher pressure.

Having said that, substitutions can be made.

I don't worry about wads much as long as they are similar.

Payload can be substituted with equal or somewhat less weight so 1 oz. of birdshot can be replaced with 1 oz. slug or 1 oz. slug with 1 oz. slug of different type.

Note that payload substitutions may require a different length wad column or use of fillers to adjust for crimp height.

I don't load for 20 ga. so can't speak specifics on HS-6 but there should be no concern about reducing the charge a bit. This will affect crimp height so may require a different/longer wad or filler card.

If you reduce powder charge watch for bloopers! Some powers need a minimum pressure to burn properly or they do not burn well at all.

I have run into poor burn using a published recipe but with 1/8 oz. lighter payload. This seems to me to be more of an issue with slow burning powders.

If you have a recipe for a straight walled hull using HS-6, same weight payload and a primer you have or can get then you should be able to adjust wad column height to fit it in one of your straight walled hulls.

If someone else with 20 ga. experience doesn't chime in with specifics I'll try to look through my manuals for HS-6/straight walled hull/1 oz. 20 ga. recipes.

If in doubt DON'T GUESS!

Longbow

[dverna]

Longbow has nailed it and provided sound advice.

[centershot]

I load the 20 gauge, it's no different really than loading 12 gauge with the exception of the powders used. In the 20 powders tend to be slower burning than in the larger bores, don't even think of trying to use any of the fast powders like Red Dot.

Longbow and dverna are correct, use only published data! You can safely substitute equal weight payloads, shot for slug (or round ball), but changing the weight even an eighth of an ounce can result in incomplete powder combustion. This can lodge a wad in your barrel! Be careful!

I've found enough data online and in manuals to keep me happy with what I load. The Lee .575" round ball can be subbed for a 7/8 oz. shot payload in 20 gauge target loads that you can buy at Walmart (at least you could buy them in better times!) to make an effective slug load. I know, it's lighter than the shot charge, but it works well, you can find several excellent threads here on that topic. Do a search for a member named Petander.

[Nobade]

This is why I stick to black powder for reloading shotshells. Can't get in trouble and can make up pretty much any type of load I want.

[Hogtamer]

In my experience 1 oz is heavy for a 20 ga past 50 yds. Was experimenting last week in fact with some full bore slugs I got from a deceased member. Good results on paper at 50 yds but nearly 1 1/2’ of drop between 50 and 100 yds with a pretty stout load of Steel powder. 3/4 oz in slugs like below are deadly to 100 yds on deer and hogs. https://www.furycustombullets.com/sh...d-slug-50-pack

[centershot]

Hogtamer, are those full-bore slugs or wad-slugs? Does Fury supply loading data?

[Hogtamer]

Full bore. The lead is a couple of tho. smaller than the attached plastic so the lead never touches the rifling. Yes, talk to Dennis aka Uncle Dino and he’ll give you some direction. I use Lil Gun with success and D uses Longshot I think.

[Rapier]

The data for loading different slugs is there, you just need to look for it to find it. I do not load slugs, but have seen the data, seen comparisons and results posted, in different places.

[W.R.Buchanan]

I don't know why this is a problem? I have never had any problems with this. However I do receive Interdimensional Information via the Cosmic Interchange, and those guys are pretty sharp, and due to their current locations it can be said,,, they've "been there, and done that."

I also use a process known as "interpolation." IE: if something works for one situation, chances are, it will work for others as well. Example: A 1 oz slug is the same as 1 oz of shot.

And as long as you are on the low side of the curve the built in safety cushion is there to protect you. Simple text would read,,, "Don't Hotrod Slugs ! " You don't need ultra performance for shooting paper targets, steel, or smaller game.

If you want to shoot Polar Bears, which will probably only happen infrequently,,, then go buy some Brenneke Slugs. Which can be Serious Butt Kickers but still safe to fire.

Randy