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Thread: S&W M&P 38 Spec

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    shell70634's Avatar
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    S&W M&P 38 Spec

    I picked up an old M&P the other day. Timing is a little off. Bore is fine. Can anyone tell me if the hand is the same as a model 10?
    I'm guessing late 20's or early 30's.
    I believe it's nickel plated. It's been beat around a bit. May be a cerakote training project for me. I cerakoted a Marlin 336 for my first cerakote project and learned a lot. This one should come out better.
    Attachment 287449
    Attachment 287450
    Attachment 287451
    "EXPERT= Ex is a has been, spurt is a drip under pressure" Unknown

  2. #2
    Boolit Master 358429's Avatar
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    I wonder if the butt has been used to post up a Wanted bounty poster.

    Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    The hand is not the same as a modern Model 10. You need a pre-war hand.
    Make sure you account for the thickness of coating so you still have necessary functional clearances.
    Good luck with your project.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master JMax's Avatar
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    Take the side plate off and see if it has a flange on the back side of the hand or a straight back hand.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    JMax, Not sure exactly what you mean by flange so here's a pic.
    Attachment 287463
    "EXPERT= Ex is a has been, spurt is a drip under pressure" Unknown

  6. #6
    Boolit Master kywoodwrkr's Avatar
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    That finish looks just like that on a Colt that came from Colombia SA. that I had.
    Your internals look a whole lot better.
    Brake fluid took most of the jungle off of it.
    This might be of interest-had with note on a M&P I have.
    https://www.gunvaluesboard.com/i-hav.....-563856.html
    Last edited by kywoodwrkr; 08-14-2021 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Update w-link

  7. #7
    Boolit Master JMax's Avatar
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    Is there a plunger in the side plate that pushes against the hand? I do not see the pin/hole for the hand spring or the relief cut for the hand spring pin in the trigger nor the pin/hole in the hand hence the questions.

    I actually worked on a number of these old beauties after I was able to buy out a retired gunsmith parts when I had my shop and I sold most of the remaining parts when I retired.

    Looking at the lock work I would say it is consistent with the early 20s. My 1917 looked similar to yours and I replaced the trigger and hand with more modern parts. Those parts will need fitting by a good S&W smith.
    Last edited by JMax; 08-13-2021 at 07:34 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    JMax, Yup, there's a plunger. I see Numrich has some but I don't see different widths like the late models. I've heard of peening it to change the size but never done it or seen it done.
    "EXPERT= Ex is a has been, spurt is a drip under pressure" Unknown

  9. #9
    Boolit Master JMax's Avatar
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    I went to my basement, astonished that I still had some and rummaged around a bit in a small box of old smith parts and found two hands, a correct trigger and a correct hammer assembly. The hands are .094" and .095" wide at the tip. If you need a wider one a special jig and oxy torch to get it red hot and peen it over.

    Attached is a photo of those parts.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by JMax; 08-13-2021 at 09:15 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check