Reloading EverythingMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2Inline Fabrication
WidenersTitan ReloadingRepackboxLoad Data
Snyders Jerky Lee Precision
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Best way to plug a leaky bottom pour pot?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master PBSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    502

    Best way to plug a leaky bottom pour pot?

    This is an old Lyman electric that I wish to use for ladle casting. Leaving the drop rod in-place does not prevent dripping. It's in the way anyhow when ladling.

    Some have turned a screw into the end of the spout to permanently disable bottom pour. I'd rather not destroy the end of the spout by doing so. Someday another caster might wish to resurrect the original bottom-pour function.

    Any thoughts on how to best plug the spout without damaging it?

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy anothernewb's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    West Central MN
    Posts
    222
    is it possible it's just debris and accumulated junk?

    had a Lee pot that was always leaky. finally drained the thing and used a torch to get the last little bits loose. after a good scrubbing with a steel brush and some sandpaper. I then cleaned the pour spout and the plug and made sure the surfaces met well. been perfect ever since.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    6,314
    Best way to plug it … discard it
    Regards
    John

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    1,523
    A small flat head machine screw that will barely pass freely through the spout can be secured with a washer, a lock washer and another washer (in that order) with a nut to provide tension.
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

    unknown

  5. #5
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,708
    Quote Originally Posted by centershot View Post
    A small flat head machine screw that will barely pass freely through the spout can be secured with a washer, a lock washer and another washer (in that order) with a nut to provide tension.

    ^^^^this^^^^
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master PBSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    502
    Quote Originally Posted by centershot View Post
    A small flat head machine screw that will barely pass freely through the spout can be secured with a washer, a lock washer and another washer (in that order) with a nut to provide tension.
    Brilliant, centershot. Thanks for that suggestion. I hope I can find a small enough diameter machine screw.
    PBSmith

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,562
    0-80 screw is about .055 dia. I would start with #6 or #8. measure the top of the taper in the spout then the hole size find happy compromise. Mc Master Carr sells screw in smll packages and has a wide range in stock. the last dimension is length you will need

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    9,053
    Quote Originally Posted by centershot View Post
    A small flat head machine screw that will barely pass freely through the spout can be secured with a washer, a lock washer and another washer (in that order) with a nut to provide tension.
    Honestly, my first thought was to weld the hole solid. Then I read that you want to make the mod reversible.

    centershot's idea is also what I came up with. Probably cost a dollar or so at the local hardware store for a bolt and nut, those small sizes get expensive buying by the onesies.

    RObert

  9. #9
    Boolit Master PBSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    502
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    0-80 screw is about .055 dia. I would start with #6 or #8. measure the top of the taper in the spout then the hole size find happy compromise. Mc Master Carr sells screw in smll packages and has a wide range in stock. the last dimension is length you will need

    Local hardware has a selection of short screws in sizes #0, #1, and #2. A half-inch #1 was just the ticket. I'm hopeful this will provide the solution..

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LymanPotFix1.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	48.3 KB 
ID:	287132


    The Lyman Mould Master is not an ideal ladle pot, but as long as the electric parts hold up It will suit me just fine.

    Thanks all.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    9,298
    I had a 10# Lee bottom pour that I wanted to convert to ladle cast ... and thought about doing the screw plug , nut-bolt-washer plug and if I had a welder I was considering welding the hole up .
    I couldn't convince my self the screw or nut-bolt-washer plugs would hold up ... with all the heating -cooling - heating a pot goes through ... Midway had a 20# Lee Magnum Melter - ladle pot - on sale so I bought one ... The 20# capacity was the best move I ever made .
    A fellow member lost all his casting stuff in a fire so I sent it to him , glad I got the 20#pot and also glad I didn't screw up the 10# bottom pour and found a new home for it .

    Let us know how the nut-bolt-washer plug works out .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  11. #11
    Boolit Master PBSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    502
    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    I had a 10# Lee bottom pour that I wanted to convert to ladle cast ... and thought about doing the screw plug , nut-bolt-washer plug and if I had a welder I was considering welding the hole up .
    I couldn't convince my self the screw or nut-bolt-washer plugs would hold up ... with all the heating -cooling - heating a pot goes through ... Midway had a 20# Lee Magnum Melter - ladle pot - on sale so I bought one ... The 20# capacity was the best move I ever made .
    A fellow member lost all his casting stuff in a fire so I sent it to him , glad I got the 20#pot and also glad I didn't screw up the 10# bottom pour and found a new home for it .

    Let us know how the nut-bolt-washer plug works out .
    Gary

    I'd rather be casting with a 20# pot. The 20-pounder open cast iron pot I have is tippy with its tiny base, and I'm afraid to use it anywhere except down low on the floor - not the most comfortable set up Also, it requires flame.

    So you've got me thinking about the Lee Magnum. I could use that on my bench and be comfortable. Thanks for posting.

  12. #12
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    Quote Originally Posted by PBSmith View Post
    I'd rather be casting with a 20# pot. The 20-pounder open cast iron pot I have is tippy with its tiny base, and I'm afraid to use it anywhere except down low on the floor - not the most comfortable set up Also, it requires flame.

    So you've got me thinking about the Lee Magnum. I could use that on my bench and be comfortable. Thanks for posting.
    Bolt the base of the tippy pot to the table or a bigger piece of something so it won't tip.

  13. #13
    Banned
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    3,409
    Quote Originally Posted by PBSmith View Post
    Brilliant, centershot. Thanks for that suggestion. I hope I can find a small enough diameter machine screw.
    PBSmith
    find the largest drill bit that fits in the hole, measure it. (you could take calipers with you and measure the bolt

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    MUSKOGEE
    Posts
    1,516
    or ....you could empty the pot , put the stem in a electric drill, put valve lapping compound on the end of the stem and re-insert it into the stem socket,
    run the drill for 10 minutes and fix the drippy problem.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    9,053
    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    I had a 10# Lee bottom pour that I wanted to convert to ladle cast ... and thought about doing the screw plug , nut-bolt-washer plug and if I had a welder I was considering welding the hole up .
    I couldn't convince my self the screw or nut-bolt-washer plugs would hold up ... with all the heating -cooling - heating a pot goes through ... Midway had a 20# Lee Magnum Melter - ladle pot - on sale so I bought one ... The 20# capacity was the best move I ever made .
    A fellow member lost all his casting stuff in a fire so I sent it to him , glad I got the 20#pot and also glad I didn't screw up the 10# bottom pour and found a new home for it .

    Let us know how the nut-bolt-washer plug works out .
    Gary
    Quote Originally Posted by PBSmith View Post
    I'd rather be casting with a 20# pot. The 20-pounder open cast iron pot I have is tippy with its tiny base, and I'm afraid to use it anywhere except down low on the floor - not the most comfortable set up Also, it requires flame.

    So you've got me thinking about the Lee Magnum. I could use that on my bench and be comfortable. Thanks for posting.
    I started out casting with a cast iron one pint sauce pan and a Coleman stove. The excess radiated heat was enough to make it un-enjoyable in all but the coldest weather.

    Then I got a Lee 4-20 brand new, and a ten pounder from a pawn shop the same week. much more comfortable to cast, and I could ladle from the 4-20. Casting started to be fun.

    A few years later, I got an RCBS Promelt at an estate auction for $88. It is better than the 4-20, not $300 better, but better.

    Last December or January I finally ordered a Lee Magnum Melter from Midway for something like $62.

    If I had gotten this first, I highly doubt I would have ever messed with a bottom pour pot. Don't get me wrong, the bottom pours have a place, I just like to ladle cast more than pulling a lever. I did look into buying a Waage a few times over the years, but could never justify the initial expenditure.

    I still use the one pint sauce pan as a dipper when I am smelting the wild wheel weight into ingot form, don't want to waste the three or four dollars it cost.

    Robert

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    9,298
    Quote Originally Posted by PBSmith View Post
    I'd rather be casting with a 20# pot. The 20-pounder open cast iron pot I have is tippy with its tiny base, and I'm afraid to use it anywhere except down low on the floor - not the most comfortable set up Also, it requires flame.

    So you've got me thinking about the Lee Magnum. I could use that on my bench and be comfortable. Thanks for posting.
    Man ...Honestly , I wished I had gotten the 20# magnum melter 25 years ago ... I cast more then ...
    The pot sits solid and isn't tippy and having 20 lbs of alloy saves so much time , refilling and reheating ... GET ONE ! it is so nice and I never thought 10#'s was a handicap until I used that 20# er the first time ... I wish someone had told me 20 #'s is 600 X's better than 10 #'s !
    You are very welcome for the advice ...glad I could help .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check