Didnt know quite where to post this,but here goes. I have a Lee bottom pour pot and want to know how to clean it. I want to drain it clear down and scrap it. Is there a chemical one could use to make this easier? Thanks
Didnt know quite where to post this,but here goes. I have a Lee bottom pour pot and want to know how to clean it. I want to drain it clear down and scrap it. Is there a chemical one could use to make this easier? Thanks
Think about how you would get rid of the chemicals you used. Also, any "active" chemical would most likely off-gas some fairly nasty fumes you don't want to be around.
Steel wool and a little elbow grease seems to work fairly well. Some folks have reported good results with boiling water and a bit of soap.
A wire brush on a drill works too, wear a mask for that one and eye protection.
Unfortunately the wire wheel & electric drill produce too much Pb dust, which is "ungood" unless you wear a respirator. The better way is to fill the cool, empty pot with boiling water, scrub it with a small wire brush, empty the water, and repeat until the pot is clean. Works like a charm!
I sand blast mine. You can get the little blaster at Harbor freight
Plain old clean water works wonders. You could also take it to a machine shop & have the inside of it bead blasted. You'll want to rinse it out with clean water after blasting. I usually just drain all the lead out & scrape it while it's still hot. Then I boil water in it & scrub with an old brass or stainless steel brush. Then rinse.
Never clean mine. I smelt in another pot and flux with a stick. The pot stays clean. I have used a variety of fluxes before hearing about the stick method on this forum and they all left deposits in the pot. Never have to skim the melted lead either. Just dump a handfull of kitty litter on the melted lead and add lead right through the litter.
Stick method? What kind of stick? Kitty Litter? Clay type? Thanks, Dennis
Bead blasters work really good. Easy to use also!
GOD, GUNS AND GUTS MADE AMERICA FREE.
I have a Lee Pro 4 20lb pot. The bottom pour nozzle keeps getting clogged. Any suggestions on proper clean out. Get it good and hot then dump out the top? Not sure what happened, I suspect a helper melted some zinc wheel weights into the melt. I was smelting into ingots with an old cast iron pot over a propane stove. The helper was using a MAP torch to help melt the wheel weights from the top. The bullets I managed to cast are very frosted and not filled in correct. Wanted to dump the half pot of melt but not sure how to clean the pot and nozzle so as not to contaminate the next batch.
Dan, A fast bullseye shooter or slow action pistol shooter.
great ideas all. I will order a wire brush set from amazon to clean my pot with them and boiling water
I empty my pot by draining it and the wearing heavy gloves turn it over while still hot and bump the rim on a wood block. This will shake much of the crud loose.
This thread was linked to, in the sticky thread, "this old pot"
But doesn't really have a very good tutorial of how to clean a pot...til now
I recently got a Lee pro 4-20 pot from a member, where the spout was clogged and for the most part, it was empty of alloy, except for the spout and some stuck on the sides as well as the valve rod, so it couldn't be disassembled without heating it up. So I thought I'd post how I cleaned it up, without chemicals or a wire brush on a drill.
First, I filled it with clean WW alloy and plugged it in, then fluxed with pine sawdust and a tiny bit of candle wax, did that a couple times while scrapping the pot sides and bottom with a charred wooden stick..as well as a large slotted screwdriver. Oh yeah, this makes for lots of smoke, do this outside.
Then I used a small "right angle" allen wrench to clean the spout (while hot) to get it to run. I ran all the alloy out the bottom, I had to re-clean the spout with the allen wrench a couple times. It seemed to have a small stream, no doubt there was still some crud that was well adhered in there. I decided drill out the spout after it cooled down. I started with a bit that'd fit the hole to clean out any lead or crud. Then I went one size larger, and then the next size larger...that third drill removed a tiny bit of steel, that was my goal, so I stopped.
I then filled the pot with water, then plugged in the power, til near boiling, then unplugged the power...to get the remaining crud out of the pot. There was a yellow chalky stuff stuck on the wall, that I brushed off with a hand held steel brush, while it was half full of hot water...so as to NOT make any dust to breathe in.
I repeated this process a few times with fresh water, til the pot was clean.
So, then I filled the pot up again with clean WW alloy, the stream is larger and it worked well, but I don't think the stream is much larger than the Lee pot I've used for the last four years, that I bought new in 2010. But if it is, it shouldn't matter as it is adjustable... so I am able to adjust the stream smaller with the adjustment...which would be necessary for small cavity molds like 22 cal and such.
ANYWAY, just thought I'd share my results.
I didn't take a 'before' photo...here it is after cleaning.
Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 09-23-2014 at 04:53 PM.
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I'm taking a tip from my wife cleaning the coffee pot and heating it with diluted white vinegar in it. Man, that stuff clouded up fast! That solution will be quite toxic from lead acetate, of course.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
stop it all of you... what are you talking about cleaning for? You melt lead, flux with a good amount of sawdust cooked off into charcoal and scrape the sides of pot, and use and cast. Never need more than that, for nothing not rust or anything else the flux will get it all out. I have pots that have cast far more than most and have never "cleaned" the pot, It just puts lead into the air. You that are compulsive about cleaning check your lead levels I bet they are off the charts.
PK
Hot shot bullets
A step above in cast bullets
www.hotshotbullets.com
I like cats I just cant eat a whole one!
Please clarify the stick method and kitty litter. I have decided to use a cast iron pot for the first melt, flexing as I go. I cast this in to small muffin pans. I then use a bottom pour just for reflux in and get clean lead out bottom. I use another bottom pour to cast boolits with.
Haven't had to try this one but the tip looked promising.
A tip I got from a member on Tuco's forum worked. It worked even better then I
thought it would. He told me to get some hardwood charcoal and crush it down to
bean sized and fill the pot. I went to WallyWorld this past Sunday and bought a
bag of 100% wood charcoal. Crushed it up and filled the pot. I turned it up to
max and let it burn. After I dumped the ash my pot was completely clean. I worked
the spout with a dental pick after it got really hot and it cleaned out all of
the zinc that was clogging the spout. Worked the valve rod in the cavity and
cleaned it. Pot is completely clean and I am again able to cast. This took several
hours but it saved my pot. Long story actually but it worked and I have a working
pot again.
Mike
Benefactor Member NRA
Life Member Iowa Firearms Coalition
US Army Vet
There are two ways to conquer and enslave a nation.
One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
John Adams 1826
I just emptied mine and dumped the crud out of it. It didn't start dripping until I moved here, after being unused in a storage for a year. I'm going to try the boiling method next week. I hope the water doesn't all leak out.
Tom
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Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |