Accurate Molds Tolerance Questions

[ryanmattes]

Definitely size after coating. No lube required.

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[popper]

chambering problems because the chambers with some brass would not accept a bullet that large
This is the important part. 2nd is the nose. I use a flat point as it seats straight without a special nose seater punch. A bevel base makes seating easier also. Those cases are TOUGH. They may start tapered but end up straight or bulged about half way down.

[charlie b]

The only problem you might encounter is if your barrel is not throated. If it is not (like my HK), then the PC will get scraped by the sharp edges of the rifling. You will know because you will get bad streaks of lead in the barrel and a small ring of PC/lead at the mouth of the chamber.

[Burnt Fingers]

I use the NOE bushings and Star adaptor for sizing. Size after coating. No need IMHO to size twice.

[fredj338]

Hello Guys, long time lurker first time poster. Ive been looking to getting into casting my own boolits for quite some time now. I have been reloading for quite some time but I have never ventured into casting. My father has casted his fair share of fishing weights so he has the majority of the equipment already. I just need to purchase the molds and the sizing kits.

My only concern is that I am not sure what size to order. I spoke to Tom at accurate molds and he told me that for 9MM, most people order .357”. Which, as you all know is .002” Larger than the bore diameter. Now, from all the research I’ve been doing states that you want to be .001” over the bore diameter. I’m assuming that the bullet will be sized to .356”.

Here is where my questions begins. Firstly, I plan to powder coat the bullets. My question is, should I be ordering the .357” diameter or the .356” diameter knowing that the powder coating will add to the diameter.

Also, knowing that I will be powder coating and sizing, should I be ordering the +/- .001” or something else?

0.001" over bore is MINIMUM. In most guns, most alloys that will be fine. Some though want 0.002" over bore. As long as you are sizing anyway, doesnt really matter. FWIW, I have never had any mold give me the so called as cast size, too many variables. I used to size 0.356" for everything, even stock Glock. I tried 0.358", too many issues in some brands of brass & no appreciable accuracy benefits as well as not doing anything for leading. So I settled on 0.357". With some stock Glock bbls, some alloys, 0.356" will cause accuracy issues.

[gwpercle]

Everyone does it different - no right or wrong it's a matter of what works or doesn't work for you .

The boolit that worked for me , after trying several , Lee 356 - 120 gr. - Truncated Cone worked pretty good . NOE 358 - 124 grain - Truncated Cone w/ GC has worked even better , sized both to .357" , the Lee was just a hair under sized ... the NOE dropped just under .358" .
Boolits sized to .357" have worked in 4 different 9mm luger pistols .
For me ...NO powder coating , they work better when run through a Lyman 450 lube sizer , sized to .357" , lubed w Lithi-Bee and the gas check seated ...with one stroke of the handle .
No worry with the thickness of an added powder coating , baking or sizing twice
...It's what works for Me !
Gary

[Rapier]

I have tried multiple way of sizing and finally just settled on the gun’s actual grove diameter, for the given bullet.

[USSR]

I lost count of how many of Tom's molds I have. But, know this: Every single mold where I specified a diameter with a specific alloy, the mold drops 0.002" over. So, I take that into consideration when I order. For example, if I want to have sized bullets at .358" for a .38 Special, I order my mold at .357", the bullets drop at .359", and I size them to .358". So, for what ever size you want the mold to drop bullets, order the mold at 0.002" smaller.

Don