Thinking maybe a piece of flashing or aluminum foil over the top would hold the heat in better? Good idea or not?
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Thinking maybe a piece of flashing or aluminum foil over the top would hold the heat in better? Good idea or not?
As long as the pot isn't sealed tightly, like wrapped in aluminum foil...you should be ok. I would think it would help when bringing a pot up to temp when you first start from cold.
I built a lid for my RCBS Pro Melt. It makes a big difference.
Originally Posted by txshooter524
In most situations not needed.
You didn't mention the size, which I'd guess would make a little difference. My 2 Lee 10# pots heat up to casting temps in no more the 20 minutes. I do as someone here suggested and leave a quarter inch in the bottom of the pot when I am done. It does seem to speed up the heating process when I fire it up the next time, but I could be daft too.
Edd
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It is a good idea. I use kitty litter. Once my melt is cleaned and ready to go, I put a 1/2" layer of kitty litter on top. This seems to help keep the heat in better as I use a fan accross my back when casting and with the kitty litter on top, my pot can get hotter and stays more consistant temp wise. I would imagine your deal would work too. I do remember a post where the member made a sheet metal lid with a cut out for the rod assembly.
YMMV,
Robert
"The only way to deal with an unfree world is to become so absolutely free that your very existence is an act of rebellion."
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i use a piece of sheet metal on all my pots it helps when adding metal too.
just in case.
+1 on NO 1's kitty litter, keeps the heat in, also acts as a flux and stops oxidation.
Calamity Jake
NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.
I put my mould on the rim of the pot and then cover the whole works with a layer of alum foil, shiny side down.
It probably only saves a couple or three minutes of kilowatts, but I'm trying to cast as cheaply as possible.
Jack
If you have an industrial job, you have probably seen the fireproof cloth that the welders put down to catch sparks, slag, etc. We formerly used some stuff that was almost golden tan...hence gold cloth. The current product is a bright orange color. It is fireproof, but not heat proof. Most jobs are a one time usage and the cloth is pitched. I keep an eye out for it and salvage what I can.
Put a double layer over the top of your pot...and mold...to retain heat AND keep the tinsel fairy away. A single layer on the floor under the table and another on the table under your melting pot helps with clean up also.
I forgot to mention that I do cover my pot in the summer with a piece of heavy duty wire cloth that looks like screen wire, but is made with much heavier wires. It keeps the bugs out that would result in a very bad explosion if they went for a dive. I made a short handle with a piece of one inch wide thin aluminum. On top of my Lee 20 pound bottom pour pot it stays cool enough to remove without gloves.
+1 to what jhrosier says. I find that aluminum foil heats mold and lead faster, and I can start casting good ones right away without having to waste time casting rejects 'till the mold gets hot enough. It is especially noticable with my four- and six- hole molds, which otherwise take several wasted casts to come up to temp.
That kitty litter is a good idea, I'll have to try that. I have had problems with oxidation in the past, that should cure most of it.
lathesmith
Bad Idea.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Be very careful here. I ran the temp up to 1300 degrees doing that once. Fortunately I was outside and had the thermometer sticking through the tin foil but is was definately vaporizing at that point.
Marc
Should have mentioned that I had left the pot unattended (big no no). If you cover the pot, keep a thermometer in and stay with it. Never let it get over the vaporizing level.
Marc
Marc,
I think that we were all assuming a pot with a thermostat. Even covered it would not go over the set temperature.
Jack
The boiling point of lead is 1620 C that is 2948 F. you were still over 1600 degrees below the boiling point. Oxidation and dust formation were definately higher though. Were you getting any frosting?
I use kitty litter to keep a more constant temp. As to heating rates I just start a little sooner. Getting in a rush to relax seems a little counter productive.
The man who invented the plow was not bored. He was hungry.
I hear you Jack. I bought an RCBS pot right after that experience. Nice to have a built in thermo. I still use the Lee on occasion but keep it uncovered.
Marc
Rhead,
I would never intentionally run the pot over 850 degrees so I unplugged the pot and ran away, quickly. Maybe some one with chemical experience can set me straight if I'm wrong here but Ive heard that metallic lead begins to vaporize at around 900 degrees.
Last edited by Marc2; 01-06-2009 at 01:22 AM. Reason: spelling
Marc, you need to get considerably hotter before you need to worry about vaporizing lead.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
My top is a tuna fish can. I cut a notch to clear the valve stem. The diameter is right.
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