Tried the water drop one time, saw no change just had to cook them in the dehydrator to dry them. Spinning them in a socket and dropping into a towel works best for me.
Tried the water drop one time, saw no change just had to cook them in the dehydrator to dry them. Spinning them in a socket and dropping into a towel works best for me.
Doing some brass on one of my homemade machines:
Somehow I think this whole thread got off track. Wasn’t the question how to check temp rather than how to anneal. Seems like about the closest we’ve come is “don’t burn your fingers.”
with all of these do it yourself annealing processes; you are probably extending case life. but without a constant time and temp. you are doing nothing to achieve a uniform neck tension.
OK, another low-$$ approach.
The $20 (Amazon) DC motor gearbox rotates the aluminum cup at 60 RPM. Handy box cost $4.00 Cup is a simple lathe part.
Prop the torch at the correct height however you like, light the flame, and plug in the battery.
Drop a case in the cup, slide into the flame, and count the revolutions. Rinse and repeat.
Heat applied uniformly around the entire circumference, judge heat by appearance of the finished cases. Since one revolution is one second, the total heat can be very consistent, and incremented up or down in discrete steps.
The cup is watertight. This was originally for annealing necks of .17 WSM rimfire without setting the priming off. Cold water in the cup absorbs enough heat at the rim to prevent that. WHY? you ask? .17 WSM can be expanded and trimmed to make a passable HV substitute for the long-obsolete .25 Stevens RF. That's for another thread.
No, I don't do video, and definitely don't do Utoob.
Last edited by uscra112; 03-23-2021 at 08:18 PM.
Cognitive Dissident
Covered in 3&5
If you are more of a still photo guy take a look at the photos in #63 in this thread.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...=545128&page=3
Those are great pictures that show the color of flame and to much also .
If you’re near me, give me a shout.
The sooner I fall behind...the more time I have to catch up with
https://www.govets.com/index.php/tem...-60797842.html
Best price I could find
750 F Temp Indicating Liquid
29.58 for Minimum Order Qty of 2
$22.40 Special Price$14.79 Each
Last edited by Conditor22; 03-25-2021 at 11:23 AM.
In my experience I've found trying to judge correct annealing temperature by using the colour of the case as a guide can be misleading. If I anneal soon after wet tumbling my cases I get virtually no colour change, if I leave those same cases for a week or so before annealing I get a classic "Lapua" looking anneal.
Good discussion. Interesting observation about the coincidence of the flame color changing and the temp of the neck. I don’t expect it’s zinc, temp seems too low, my guess is that at some temp the brass scavenges oxygen and the flame temp drops, but that’s a wild wild guess. I know a guy that spent his career studying how metals react to heat (think components for jet engines) and will ask him.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |