Removing shot from Star Sizer dies

[FISH4BUGS]

Someone once posted a thread about how to remove the shot plugging the holes on the Star sizer dies. Can you point to it or maybe start the thread again right here?
I have a 358 sizer die that is giving me fits. I don't think this one was machined properly because it looks like some of the holes are not drilled all the way through. I have to use so much pressure in the lube and run the Midway Heater full out when using this die, the press bleeds through the spring area and drain screw on the side.....that is NOT the way this press was designed to operate. I certainly didn't have the problem with my 9mm die.
I want to remove the shot and start again from scratch and choose a row that is completely open then plug the others up. I used the propane torch method (melted the shot and the bullet inside the die) and some of the holes still look like they are filled with something or the other.....or they are not drilled all the way through.
I want to fix this. My Star sizer needs to work properly. Frustration is building.
HELP!

[Echo]

What lube?

Poke a wire or awl or something through the seemingly filled holes.

I just dig them out with an awl or scriber, when necessary. Can be done.

[Down South]

You might try a tiny drill bit. I don't remember what size it takes but as long as the bit is just a tad smaller than the original hole it should work.

[Chad G]

My Star sizer directions specify #45 drill or smaller. Drill size chart

[454PB]

Star sizing dies are designed with a "stepped" lube hole. The outer diameter is about twice the size of the inner diameter. They are made that way so that the lead shot can't be pushed completely through the hole. You should be able to remove the shot by using a dental pick or a very small threaded screw (think wine bottle cork remover). If all else fails, you can melt the shot out, but you may risk reducing the die's hardness, if that matters to you. I make my own Star dies and they are unhardened.

[GabbyM]

Find a drill bit that will push through an open hole.
Large part of the stepped hole is a #1 center drill as used in flash hole deburring tools.
I use a tooth pick to poke out the holes. But I've broken off the tooth pick and had to drill it out. Propane torch will blow the lead out of a hole in less than a three count.

[cajun shooter]

Have Lathesmith make your dies. He makes them bigger and better than the stock ones. He will also make you a custom die that will fit a certain bullet so that you don't have to use the shot. Just send bullet and life will be easier.

[FISH4BUGS]

What lube?

Poke a wire or awl or something through the seemingly filled holes.

I just dig them out with an awl or scriber, when necessary. Can be done.

It is Magma Hard lube with a Midway heater. I am really getting frustrated with this die. Is there a row of holes that is not driled all the way through? I am going to drop down one row of holes and see if that works.
There MUST be a better way!

[Down South]

If the holes on the lower row cause the same problem then I'd open them up to the next size. I don't think opening the holes up a little will hurt anything. I think that I would go down to the hardware store first and buy a #45 drill bit and see if it will go through the holes. Something else. You may have some trash that is plugging the holes not allowing for the lube to pass through freely. I doubt that Magma drilled the wrong size holes in the die but it is possible.

[Orygun]

I use #9 shot to plug the holes (works just fine) and use a curved dental pick to pop them out from the inside of the die.

[chloe123]

Another thanks for the "Dental pick" suggestion. Reading through the post made it abundantly clear why tapping lead shot with a punch in works, while attempting to remove it by tapping it through the die will be ineffective.

Solution: remove it from the outside by "plucking" it out.

Great thread as having a drill bit smaller than the diameter of those lube holes is not that likely, at least for me anyway. An excellent idea.

[youngmman]

There is a good video on the Magma website about how to clean the lube holes. It does give the size drills to use for the shot and the lube hole. I use a thick toothpick when i don't have to remove the shot.

[MT Chambers]

I'd melt them out if possible, the dental pick can easily scatch the inside of your die, and sized bullets will show those scratches

[chloe123]

I just ran the master caster with a 45LC mold so I could test the aforementioned size die that was sent to the orthodontist.

You know, it sounds unusual that a material like soft plastic could ever damage steel.

But your on a pretty specific forum so I believe ya and I will inspect the rim of the die hole

[MBTcustom]

First of all, I use a bigger size lead so that it leaves a "Rim" of sorts in the lube channel that is easy to get your plucker under.
If I can't get it out, I drill with the large size drill till I bottom out in the hole, then I use a small piece of piano wire that has been ground flat on the end to punch the little bit of lead through to the inside of the die.
So far though, I have only had to drill once. Since I went to the larger shot size, life is happy.

[PbHurler]

The video on Magma's website states: "use a #44 drill bit for the outer hole, a #50 bit for the inner hole"

(That's what I've got & they work per Magmas' instruction)