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Thread: Lyman 310 primer plunger

  1. #1
    Boolit Man rickomatic's Avatar
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    Lyman 310 primer plunger

    I recently got a small handle Lyman 310 on Fleabay with full set of dies for 32 acp. In the box was also a couple other items. There were two extra primer die plungers. One just the "stem" and the other one with the spring. The one with the spring is for small primers (not sure if pistol or rifle, haven't checked) and also has a cup like your standard hand seating tool like a Lee or RCBS. I can't figure out how to swap these out in the die. There is a very small pin retaining the spring loaded plunger in the die. Is there a trick to this? Thanks.Click image for larger version. 

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    "If God hadn't wanted us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat."

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
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    The plungers should be permanent installations in the 310 tool priming chambers. I don’t know why somebody would get an “extra” for any priming chamber. Is it drilled through the side for the retaining Cross pin?

    The one with the spring is for a Lyman Tru-Line Junior press.

  3. #3
    Boolit Man rickomatic's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. It doesn't appear to be drilled all the way through. The one without the spring is just the plunger/stem all by it self. Probably just extra parts thrown in the box from someone's estate. LOL, I often wonder how my better half will deal with all of my gun odds and ends when I'm gone.
    "If God hadn't wanted us to eat animals, he wouldn't have made them out of meat."

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    The only one I've ever seen taken apart is one I had that had gotten so rusty it wouldn't move. Once I got apart, it was not worth trying to put it back together (it was a common size for 30-06.) I can't imagine anyone outside the factory having or using those parts, but a serious collector of anything might want all of the bits and pieces they could find.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    It's doable but tricky. As I recall I once had one of the pins shear off. It takes the right setup to hold it steady and drill out the old pin. I say it's doable because neither me nor my buddy are proficient workers in metal but we got it up and running.
    Our method was to file the shaft smooth of the old pin. Then "dimple". Then drill a hole straight thru the shaft (that's the hard part if you're tool limited as we were). Then clamp together and install the new pin.
    By this time, you've figured out that this is not designed as a quick change item and is changed only to get it back up and priming.

    The cupped point shaft was for the old rounded primers. At one time that was all that was furnished by Ideal. Then as primers switched to flat faced, they changed to flat but you could order the rounded ones from Lyman. Occasionally, you'll see a set with both plungers. I once traded for a set of .25-20 SS dies and it came with a rounded plunger./beagle
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



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    A couple of thoughts............

    When drilling into a round surface, such as a piece of 1" round bar stock, place the piece in your drill press vice and level it fore and aft by eye as much as possible. Get a steel straight edge, such as a 6" ruler, and place it on top of the shaft centered as much as possible. Lower the drill bit until it makes contact with the ruler. The ruler will probably tilt one way or the other, so move piece laterally until the ruler is level with the drill press table.....again by eye (Note: a heavy starting drill (center drill) aids in this process). Your drill bit will now be centered on the bar stock and you can drill the hole with some assurance that it will go through straight. I use this all the time when drilling for cross pins in a round shaft. Works well.

    If you have a rough hole left after pushing or drilling out the old pin, consider using epoxy to install the new one. It will allow you to move the pin around until it's where you want it, then harden and keep it that way. Did you goof and want to remove the pin? Just heat it with a propane torch until the epoxy loses its strength and it will slide right out, allowing you to clean and reinstall it.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    And a carbide dental drill in a Dremel makes for a good starter hole./beagle
    diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check