gonna pull some steel core !

[superior]

I will be using a kinetic bullet puller to remove cheap chinese and russian bullets. They will then be reloaded with my powder and boolits! Has anyone tried this?
I have about 350 rounds of combloc ammo.
sks paratrooper
lee-tl-312-160-2r
I dont like the idea of shooting that steel jacket crap through my rifling.

[59stude]

I have pulled a lot of 9mm Swedish submachine steel jacket bullets and reloaded them with cast boolits and new powder.

I nearly always used a seater die to seat the steel jackets a little deeper in the casings to crack the weater seal that was applied to them.

After that it was easy to take them out with my kinetic bullet puller and reload them with real homemade boolits.

I hope that this tips can come in handy for you.

59stude

[Ricochet]

Those copper plated soft iron jackets are quite harmless to your rifling. The bigger concern is properly cleaning out the residue from the corrosive priming you're still planning to use. I wouldn't put all that work into this project. Shoot 'em as they are, buy some Boxer primed brass cases and load what you want to.

[jhrosier]

You could probably trade or sell the milsurp ammo and get about twice as much reloadable brass.

Jack

[bobk]

Well, there's corrosive, and there's corrosive. The decent Chinese stuff from years ago was only very mildly corrosive. You could actually wait a few days to clean the gun, with no harm. OTOH, i once bought some green-lacquered East German stuff that I swear would corrode a gun that was in the same room. Accurate, though. The good stuff came in 2-550 round tins. The cheap stuff was 2-720 round tins, never bought any. I figured the copper-washed cases were pretty safe. Your advice is spot on though. Why go to all that trouble?

Bob K

[Lloyd Smale]

if your throwing those bullets out ill take them.

[NSP64]

A guy up at the range pulls all his mil-surp ammo puts in reduced charges of the powder(that he pulled out) and seats the pulled bullet back on. He stated that he didn't like the full power loads. Seems to me to be alot of work.

[leadeye]

Somebody correct me if I am wrong but I remember that steel jacket 9mm stuff being declared illegal after the "cop killer" hysteria back in the 80s. I shot all of mine up back then just to get rid of it.

[jhrosier]

Leadeye,
I think that it was the steel core, not the steel jacketed stuff that was affected by legislation.
IIRC, possession is not a problem in most states, but dealer sales were halted.
BTW, I shot a bunch of the steel cored 7.62x39 back then as it was cheaper than .22 rimfire.
The steel cores were almost as soft as lead. I found a bunch of them flattened and lying on the berm in front of the 200 yd gong. Never saw more than a slight dimple in the boiler plate gong @ 200. Hardly armor piercing in the real world, but the poorly thought out and worded legislation banned pretty much all non-lead cored ammo that might be used in a handgun. The fine folks at Olympic Arms made a prototype handgun in 7.62x39 and that single gun was the cause of the steel cored 7.62 ammo ban.
The solid copper bullets that the folks out in California are now forced to use is probably technically illegal by the same standard..

Jack

[runfiverun]

actually the mild steel jackets are easier on your bbl then some of the other bullets available.

[deltaenterprizes]

The armor in "armor piercing" legislation is kevlar vests.The news media and some legislators think when you put one on it is like standing behind a brick wall. The know littles convinced the know nothings that only "good" guys wear vests and any "handgun" ammo that is capable of penetrating a kevlar vest should be banned.There are 7 metals that the cores can not be made from, some are bronze, brass, berillium, iron,steel; copper is allowed.
Best part is in a test I did with a pointy boolit cast with WW metal and 20% linotype loaded at 1200 fps and it penetrated 3 samples of Threat Level 3A stacked on top of each other!

[Larry Gibson]

superior

I also don't have a qualms about shooting the steel jacketed bullets or corrosive ammo in my rifles. I recently loaded 300+ Turk cases with cast bullets from the GB C325-190-FN mould. Cleaning the rifle isn't any more difficult that with not corrosive primers. You just have to do it right away is all. So if you want to pull the bullets (seating them to break the seal as mentioned will make it easier) and reload with cast then have at it.

Larry Gibson

[superior]

Well guys, I guess I just like the idea of my 160 grain, easy on the bbl "thumpers" flying out of the muzzle. I religiously clean the weapon at the end of each day in the field so their primers dont scare me. I wouldnt mind even using a HEAVIER boolit like say, a 190-200.
The way I see it is this. This will give me a 350 round headstart on developing my most accurate load, and best of all, with cast boolits.

[EMC45]

Did 400 rds of 7.62X54R with a kinetic than later a press mounted puller. I load the bullet with the Yugo powder on my brass.

[MtGun44]

I have lots of cheap steel cased Czech (I think) 7.62x54R that is really
inaccurate in my M91/30 and other MN rifles. So - I have pulled some
of the bullets and measured the powder charges (they vary up to 1.0
grains !!) and then worked up a .303 Brit load in my primed brass with
the Czech bullet and powder. Works great and is much more accurate
in the Brit than in the Mosin, for some reason - probably bore size.

Bill

[superior]

Thanks for the good advice all, especially when it comes to breaking the seal using a seater die.

[Jim]

I've seen more people than I care to count destroy kinetic bullet pullers by beatin' 'em on anvils and concrete patio blocks and stuff like that. I've got two pullers that I've pulled thousands of rounds with and both still work well.
Buy a big wooden mallet, hold the puller in one hand and the mallet in the other. Smack the two together, HARD, and the round will seperate without destroying the puller.
IT'S JUST THAT SIMPLE.