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Thread: Improving 10/22 Accuracy without spending big $?

  1. #1
    Boolit Man Norcal707's Avatar
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    Improving 10/22 Accuracy without spending big $?

    Have a nice Stainless Carbine that I bought new in the mid 90's. Would like to improve accuracy as I was shooting it recently and realized it really isn't all that accurate regardless of what ammo I was using. Scope is a Mueller APV 4.5-14×40 AO and stock is a Houge Overmold. Not wanting to dump over $300 into it - just looking to make it much more accurate for plinking and ground squirrels out to 100 yards. Willing to send it off for massaging if need be.

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Need a good trigger....you can install one your self - BX Ruger Trigger is great in my 10/22...

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    Boolit Master
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Finster101's Avatar
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    Without spending a lot of money a drop in trigger is probably the most notable thing you can do. It made a huge difference in mine.

  5. #5
    Boolit Man Norcal707's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention that I put a Volquartsen Target Hammer & Sear in - the trigger pull weight is at 2lbs with a nice crisp break. Also installed their extractor & firing pin in the bolt.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    I put in dozens of the Volquartsen Target hammer kits they come with shims that take pull down to 3lbs and less. Only one dissatisfied customer, he said trigger was to light. I also don’t think that the stock Ruger stainless 10/22 barrels are as accurate as carbon steel barrel. Around shows you can pick up a take off barrel cheap. So for price of target hammer kit and barrel your only in $50.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    The generous chamber Ruger uses for stingers and to be sure it functions is a detriment. The bedding, or lack thereof is not conductive to good accuracy. If you face about .090 off the breech and shoulder then recut the extractor groove you will find the Ruger barrels are quite good. Or set it back a bit more and run a bentz reamer in. Easiest is a Green Mountain 17 inch heavy sporter barrel and bed it into a good stock, last I bought was under 100$ on sale, that’s been a while. All my 10-22s have all Ruger trigger parts but reshaped and polished to get 2.25 to 3. # triggers, you get good after doing a couple. Green mountain barrels bedded into Refinished walnut sporter stocks with a 6x scope and they will put 5 subsonic CCI hollow points into 1/2 inch at fifty yards often enough to be interesting, like 3 groups out of 5 with the other 2 being around 5/8 inch. I hate shooting groups so some of that is on me. The charger has a Ruger barrel faced off and cut to 10 inches, it’s harder to shoot well but does as good as the others when I can focus for 5 in a row. Don’t have to spend big bucks to get squirrel gun accuracy, 5 in a half at 50 yards. Don’t expect that with milk carton crap, more like 1 to 1 1/4 for 5 with 3 of them in 1/2, it’s the ammo. The barrels from before stingers( mid 70s) sometimes shoot quite well without facing off.
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    “You don’t practice until you get it right. You practice until you can’t get it wrong.” Jason Elam, All-Pro kicker, Denver Broncos

  8. #8
    Boolit Man Norcal707's Avatar
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    Saw http://ct-precision.com/ recommended on RimfireCentral - anyone had work done there?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Look up mikes.stocks on Fleabay.

    I've purchased three barrels from him. They are Keystone barrels. I've found them to be very good barrels.
    NRA Benefactor.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master


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    I have read good things about having the barrel reworked. The consensus at one time was that the factory barrel is quite good, but the chamber is too large. The barrel band isn't doing too much for accuracy though.

    Lightening up the trigger works well to help the shooter. I put some Volquartsen springs in mine to do this. You can always buy a new trigger group for more cash; Ruger will even sell you one.

    Many have put tons of money into the little 10/22 to get accuracy. I think they'd have been better off buying a CZ.

  11. #11
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    I would suggest a new barrel. It's very easy to install yourself. My 10-22 went from 1-2" 10 shot groups at 50 yds to less than 1/2".

    https://fjfeddersen.com/product-cate...l-smooth-22lr/

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drm50 View Post
    I put in dozens of the Volquartsen Target hammer kits they come with shims that take pull down to 3lbs and less. Only one dissatisfied customer, he said trigger was to light. I also don’t think that the stock Ruger stainless 10/22 barrels are as accurate as carbon steel barrel. Around shows you can pick up a take off barrel cheap. So for price of target hammer kit and barrel your only in $50.
    I put in the Volquartsen trigger kit before the Ruger BX came out, and it made quite a difference. Now I'd probably do the BX.

    However, before I even invested the small amount for the Volquartsen, I tried mine out in a fairly solid rest (Varminter rest) with different brands of ammo to see if it was capable of accuracy. In the rest the standard super heavy issue Ruger trigger was not as much of a factor. It proved to be accurate so I spent the money.
    Britons shall never be slaves.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    volquartsen barrel and Boyds evolution stock to go with your trigger. if that don't fix it aint no telling.
    I got a $125 blue light special back when Kmart sold guns and it will consistently hit a 3" target at 100 yards.
    I guess accuracy it hit and miss with 10-22's

  14. #14
    Boolit Master


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    I Also replaced the barrel on mine but that was more to get a threaded barrel for a suppressor than accuracy. It shot quite well with just the trigger but hey, if you have a .22 silencer anyway you might as well use it on everything you can.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    yup, Ruger chambers are absurdly large, to accommodate all the kinds of low-grade ammo they know that Bubba will try to stuff into them.

    Either change the barrel, or take up "bumping" ammo to enlarge the bullets. **

    That and weight sorting led to a 50% reduction in group sizes when I was testing using a stock 10-22 about six years ago. It still wasn't anything to write home about, it went down the road. One of the very few guns I have ever sold.

    ** This only works for commodity ammo - Thunderduds, Auto Match, Blazer, MiniMags. It does nothing but spoil good target grade ammo.
    Cognitive Dissident

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    I had a 10/22 back before they were cool. I had bought each model as they came out. I had every gun Ruger made back then. Now you couldn’t haul one of each in a truck. I was Ruger cheerleader.
    The early 10/22 were by far the best 22 for the buck. They had better triggers then and I really don’t know about chambers. I know the old ones are superior to the newer ones. I still have one of the original Sporters. The rest of them are still in family. None of them have any aftermarket parts and would shoot a 1” at 40yds. The plastic trigger housing turns me off. Why when you have the #1 selling 22 would it be worth it to cut cost by making plastic parts? I have several new take offs I am going to check chambers against my old one. I had lots of stocks and barrel from switching them out. A lot of guys just told me to keep them. Also the mag release parts. I have used up several barrels threading them. I have cut a few birch stocks for family & friends kids. The stock parts are fairly easy to come by.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
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    A couple of decades ago I became acquainted with a guy who had so many 10-22 takeoff barrels that he built mini Gatling guns to use them up. That was when .22 ammo was $7.95 a brick.
    Cognitive Dissident

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    The least expensive things I did were 2 items. I kept the factory barrel. I am not a high-end competitor. 1> I pillar bedded the stock/barrel. 2> I drew a line on the rear end of the stock where the receiver came to. I put 2-3 brads in just under the line and bedded the action including the rear end where the brads are. This info was given to me by an army coach who set a record for 22 silhouette hits. He got 80+hits without a miss. One other thing I did was for convenience, not accuracy. Strip the action down and slide a snug fitting rod into the barrel from the muzzle. Slide it far enough to touch the rear of the receiver. Mark where the rod touches. Transcribe the mark on the receiver to the outside and drill a hole which your cleaning rod will slide into. Now you have a way to clean the barrel from the breach end.
    Rich or poor, it's good to have money.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ickisrulz View Post
    Many have put tons of money into the little 10/22 to get accuracy. I think they'd have been better off buying a CZ.
    I for one have a 10-22 as a "Mechanical Toy" as much as a tool to shoot accurate groups.

    I had a bone stock 10-22 for over 20 years,, then I found a Clark 10-22 at a gun show cheap, (less than the cost of a bull barrel 10-22)

    Well that Clark got me started in buying aftermarket parts, and scopes,,,

  20. #20
    Boolit Master


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    Aftermarket barrel, bed the barrel, float the receiver, home trigger job, mount the scope to the barrel not the receiver.

    Cheapest path to reasonable 10/22 accuracy.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check