I like the idea of a cape chisel; but unless you already have one, good luck finding a new one.
I did the math, there isn't but about 0.0012" difference between 4mm and 5/32" so it should have worked.
Maybe a stupid question, have you tried turning it upside down to se if the ball will fall out? I don't suppose you could solder a handle on the ball to lever it out either can you?
Robert
yep, should have worked...in the absence of LoctiteOriginally Posted by Mk42gunner
Except ball end hex keys should never be used to "crack loose" a tightened screw, never.
The hex socket in a flathead screw is shallower than in a socket head cap screw, another reason NOT to use a ball end wrench for anything but snugging up a screw or unscrewing an already loosened screw.
jmo,
.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
I've removed those screws on 2 LnL presses. In both cases they were very tight.
I'd probably slot it if the broken bit can't be coaxed out. If that don't work take it to a decent machine shop/welder.
I just didn't think about the fact the the ball end would snap. I also didn't know how much force it would take to break them free. Once I called Hornady and found that it was 5/32. I used the right size Allen and got other screw out. But it took a lot of force to get it out. I was expecting the wrench to start to bend and at that point it broke free.
At this point I tried the spring loaded punch and it didn't even work what's so ever. Maybe the one I bought was just weak.
So right now I cut a slot on the 3 o'clock side and have tried hitting up with a hammer and a good brand flat bladed screwdriver. Has not moved yet. Next try will be cutting a slot on the 9 o'clock side and trying to use a bigger flat bladed screwdriver and a wrench to help apply some quick shock to it.
Trying to drill it out without damaging the allen hole.
I don't know if I have the right type of drill bit to drill a progressively bigger hole into the ball. Don't know what it's made of.
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have you tried applying some heat and penetrating oil? Some good penetrating oil (kroil) applied, and a heat gun often works well.
NRA Endowment Life Member
Trying to drill that ball would be the last thing I would try .
Have you tried punching on the ball with a center punch to see if you can break it loose so it will lift out with a magnet or pick. If you try to move it in the tighten direction it may break loose so you can get it out.
Those allen wrenches are quite hard. I doubt you will be able to drill it. You are probably going to have to dig the broken ball out before you can continue. If you can't make a cape chisel, and have a dremel you may be be able to grind the ball out with a stone with the dremel. A small nail set is very easy to grind into a cape chisel and fairly easy to find.
I do not recommend using an easy out for any bolt or screw much less than 1/2" dia. if the hole you drill in the bolt is even somewhat close to the dia of the bolt the easy out will swell the bolt when you tap it in and make the bolt really hard to get out.
The ball went in, it’ll probably come out. Hook up the shop vac to get some constant suction on it and wiggle the heck out of that ball for 5 min. The other thing might be to hit the ball with the spray from an inverted compressed air can, that’ll chill it fast.
A carbide drill bit would make a hole in it. Not sure if that would help. An oxygen acetylene torch to heat it red would soften it.
If you get it out, heating the bolt and cooling just the bolt quickly will shrink it.
The ball does move. Got it unstuck using a vibrating engraver. But any attempt to get it out has failed. Have tried some pretty strong magnets. Have tried picking at it with a small pick. As far as I know I have not damaged the hole so don't know why the fact that the 4mm ball is a bit smaller than 5/32 won't just slide out.
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They are commonly made from 1040 steel then heat treated to make them harder.I don't know if I have the right type of drill bit to drill a progressively bigger hole into the ball. Don't know what it's made of.
Because the tool was harder than the screw and round giving it less contact surface area, so likely distorted the screw, at the point the middle of the ball was contacting, that is now holding the broken ball captive. I would resist the temptation to break off a small carbide bit in it but drilling by hand into a now loose but captive hardened ball, it would likely break at a depth so shallow it could be simply brushed off.
Would be better off spending the money on one of these to go along with your slot.
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-impa...p-00947641000P
Your probably right about why it won't come out. While thinking about this. I had thought about an impact driver. Funny you should mention it. I'll have to reach out to a couple of mechanic friends to see if they have one.
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I have had good results with dental bits in a Dremel tool, gnaw away at the offending bit untill it is small enough to fall out.
Steve
It's real easy to break carbide when you are grinding or drilling on something hard and loose. The last thing you need is something in the ball even harder than the ball.
The good thing about the impact drivers is they twist and shock at the same time. If you can't get the ball out. Use a dremel to slot the screw head and the ball. Then use a heavy (3 lb) hammer to give a good shock and twist with the impact driver.
It's still easier to dig the ball out with a cape chisel and then drill the head off the screw and lift off the plate.
Sorry to read about the punch not working.
Maybe get an awl with the metal shaft going all the way thru the handle, put it into the punch divot in the screw head and whack it with a hammer.
I've used an auto punch for so many hits the divot went half way around the screw head and started a new divot before it worked to loosen the screw, so yeh a lot of hits, don't give up...
Did the screw you got out have any signs that it had Loctite on it??
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Unbolt the press from the bench, Turn it upside down, Then try wiggling the ball. Gravity may help the ball come out.
Leo
Can you use a small dremel diamond ball bit to remove enough metal from the ball so that it will come out? I updated my old projector press to use the LNL subplate and priming system. The subplate kit came with two new bevel head screws which screw into the subplate including part of the tapered head. The only thing you'll hit inside of the ram is the drive hub and possibly the drive shaft if you for some reason kept drilling after breaking through the screw if drilling for an easy out. Should you not be able to remove it by other means. Since the start of the bevel extends into the subplate you should also be fine to just drill it with a 1/4" bit until the head pops off as the through hole in the ram is larger than 1/4".
It that screw driver has a handle on it it will soak up the impact you want on the screw a heavy punch or chisel with the tip ground to fit will work better.
I have popped the ball off ball drivers about 500 times. You'da thunk I would have learned but it was never clear that the screws I was dealing with were that tight. These were 6-32 SS flat head screws using a 5/64 ball driver.
After a few hundred failures I started carrying a 5/64 Allen/ball driver and broke the screws loose with the hex end and then spun them out with the ball driver end. Problem Solved!
As far as your problem, you'll probably have to replace the screw. Drilling these out is not going to be easy as they are Hard and Round so the drill will wander and screw up the hole.
The hot tip with Bondhus Ball Drivers is if you can't break the screw loose with finger pressure, you need to use a Regular Allen Wrench. Putting a wrench on the ball driver to get more leverage is asking for trouble. It can be done, but you need to know your limitations.
By the way,,, that brand of Allen Wrench is the best there is. I've got lots of them in my shop.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
So I have quite the slot cut into the screw head. Using a dremel cutoff wheel. But the angle that I have to hold a screwdriver and then to try and turn the screwdriver with the help of a wrench is not working. So I have finely decided to unbolt it from the bench and attack it from a better angle. I can't believe that I won't have it apart by Sunday afternoon. Have some other things to work on. House comes first.
And the other screw looks pretty clean. And I was told by Hornady that they don't use any kind of thread lock. It's just the taper of the screw that holds it in so tight.
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