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Thread: RCBS Little Dandy info needed...

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    RCBS Little Dandy info needed...

    Gents - I have one of these due in with several rotors, never used one before. I've used my tried and true Uniflow for years, but thought this maybe a good grab for the 41/44/45 revolver rounds, which I never load larger quantites of. I thought this maybe useful, when only making a box or 2, of a certian caliber/ bullet type - rather than resetting the Uniflow for every change. I'd appreciate any thoughts/ insights/ reccomendations on the measure. I already downloaded the rotor chart from RCBS. I know I have to pick up a couple of rotors for it, for loads I already use and will probably buy those new. I may look around for 2nd hand ones to fill in gaps with the ones I have already, for potential future use. Thanks for any help, Bill in MA

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    I use the Little Dandy alot. You might find this table handy:

    RCBS Little Dandy Measure

    The RCBS Little Dandy measure uses interchangeable, drums or rotors to throw a fixed powder charge.

    The proper drum is selected in accordance with a table, which lists the nominal charge weight thrown by each numbered rotor, using various powders. Selection of the proper drum or rotor should always be done by consulting current published sources of load data. You should then check the charge weight of YOUR drum against a reliable powder scale. I drop TEN charges onto the scale pan and mentally move the decimal. The drums are usually spot-on to the stated charge weight, or not more than 0.1 grain under, but I have never found one which threw more than its stated charge weight.

    Once the charge weight thrown by your particular measure has been verified, many users leave the measures set up, or package the specific drum in the die box of the caliber in which it is suited. I tend to use the same drums in multiple applications.
    Therefore, I post a charge table in my loading area, which I share below so that others don't have to "Reinvent the Wheel." The majority of my recreational and practice loads use either Bullseye or #2400 with cast bullets in pistols, revolvers, lever and bolt rifles. These are the powder drums or rotors and loads they throw with Bullseye and #2400 in the RCBS Little Dandy powder measure:

    #00 = 1.7 Bullseye .32 ACP start loads with either 31-081H, 31-084H, 31-087B or 31-087T bullets. Safe in Keltecs and Tomcats
    #0 = 2.1 Bullseye .38 S&W with 36-193D bullet or NOE .380-200 Mk1 bullets
    #1 = 2.5 Bullseye, standard load for .32 S&W Long with 98-gr. SWC, .32 ACP with 71-gr. FMJ and .38 S&W with 36-155D
    #3 = 3.0 Bullseye, standard load for .32 H&R Mag, .32-20 with #3118 115 LFN, and .38 Spl. 148 HBWC flush seated.
    #5 = 3.5 Bullseye full charge standard pressure 38 Special cast 146 DEWC, 158 SWC or Cowboy 160LFN
    #7 = 4.0 Bullseye +P for .38 Spl. 158 Lead, and as 146 DEWC “full charge wadcutter” in .38 brass for .357 guns.
    #8 = 4.5 Bullseye for. 45 ACP H&G68 wadcutter, approximates .38 +P in .357 Mag. brass with 158 lead SWC
    #9 = 5.0 Bullseye .45 ACP hardball, full charge wadcutter in .357, “cat sneeze” in any .30 cal. rifle, standard load in .44 Spl.
    #12 = 6.5 Bullseye standard load for. 45 Colt 250-255 lead, 200-gr. .44-40, .44 Mag 240 SWC Lead “medium” velocity.
    #13 = 7.2 Bullseye, full-charge .45 Colt 230-gr., 10 grs.#2400 for .38 Spl +P 158-gr., and 31-155D Gallery Load in .30-’06.
    #15 = 8.4 Bullseye, 1100 fps with 240 JHP in. 44 Mag, .30-'06 100-yard target for plainbased 150 to 205 grains.
    Also throws 12 grs. #2400, for plainbased bullets 150 to 205 grains in any. 30 cal case from. 30-30 to .30-'06, and as "medium velocity" load in .357 Magnum with 160-180 grain lead.
    #18 = 14.5 #2400, standard load for .357 magnum 158 to 160 grain lead SWC or FN,
    #19 = 15.4 #2400, full charge .357 Mag. 158 jacketed, 200-yard target gascheck load in any. 30 cal. from 7.62x39 to. 30-'06 Using bullets from 150 to 205 grains. Also very good in. 30-30 and. 32-40!
    #22 = 12.7 of Bullseye! Small game and gallery load for belted cases of .300 H&H and larger only! Approximates .38-55 Winchester in .375 H&H with #375449, also throws 17.9 #2400, good load in .303 Brit., Krag, .308 Win with 150-200gr GC.
    #25 = 20.8 #2400, Standard charge 44 Mag. for 240-270-grain LFN and . 30-30 with 170-LFN. Also good in. 30-'06, with either GC cast or jacketed bullets weighing from 150 to 200 grains.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
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    The little dandy is a wonderful tool for batch loading after you work out what rotors to use . I used one quite a bit over a loading block .

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    I have the original Little Dandy, by Bonanza. I think RCBS bought the rights and made the same size rotors for a while but later ones are a different size. I made a post in the Trader a few days ago, offering to trade rotors for ones I didn't have and a poster listed the later RCBS ones as a different size. Be interesting to know what size your rotors are when you get them in.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I use the Little Dandy a lot as well. I found the chart is really only a guide and you have to check the individual rotors you have with the powder you want to use. Maybe it is the humidity down here or low altitude but I have never found one that actually threw what the chart said.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Sam Casey's Avatar
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    Great little powder dispenser. Be sure to check all powder drops on good scale before simply assuming any chart correctly represents charge that measure will drop. Load the Dandy, drop 2-3 practice drops to scale before actually loading ammo.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    I've had one for a very long time. I have all but 3 or 4 of the rotors. You've had good advice above, the rotors won't throw the exact weight the charts show. There's a Volume Density Chart here: https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/VMD.pdf that's sometimes useful if you want to use a powder that's not listed in the rotor chart.

    My preferred method is 50 or 100 rounds in the loading block and just hold the Little Dandy freehand, charging cases. Keeping it above 50% full and using a consistent rhythm, I get almost zero variance with the AA series of powders. In fact, if I throw 10 charges the total variance is maybe a half grain. So if I'm throwing a 4.0 grain charge, 10 of them will weigh in between 39.5 and 40.5.

    Somebody, somewhere makes an adjustable rotor. I think he's on here somewhere.

    I have a spare and a few rotors I'm currently trying to trade away.

  8. #8
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    You should look at the adjustable rotor that Bailey Boats sells. He is a member here you can PM him for information. I have one and never use the original rotors.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/memb...25-Bailey-Boat
    Steve,

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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I own a Lil Dandy but have not put it to work. I have two or three rotors for it but none fit my main loading regimes.

    My daily driver is a Uniflow, have two, one with small and the other with the large powder chambers.

    I think Bailey Boats adjustable rotor is a fine addition to our craft but isn’t the Uniflow easier to adjust?

    To own most if not all the rotors for the Dandy is very costly ........

    It seems that one would be wise to be very precise and order rotors that are just related to charges that one uses a lot. The adjustable rotor puts the Dandy on a plane with the Uniflow measure with the latter being easier to adjust IMO. Buying many fixed rotors runs the cost through the roof.

    My .02 worth

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    I have several and use them for all my loading that fall within their capacity limits. If you buy any used rotors check them to make sure that they have not been altered from their original charge. I think you will be happy whit the Little Dandy.
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  11. #11
    Moderator Emeritus rugerman1's Avatar
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    Dean Grennell Got me started on the idea of using the Lil Dandy measure for the simple fact that it can’t go out of adjustment. Each time I made an mail-order ,I’d add a couple rotors.
    When I needed a load,I’d take a rotor, dump 10, average them,check for repeatability and log the results on a 3x5 index card. Powder name listed at top,and each rotor charge written out. I store the cards in a file card box,sorta like this
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I store the rotors in a MTM ammo box like this,with little vci cardboard squares randomly inserted to prevent rust
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Appalachian American Clinging to my bible,my guns and my H&G moulds

  12. #12
    Banned
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    I had not givin it a thought till Outpost75 posted his chart. This might be the near perfect powder measure for loading cast boolit loads in a couple of 30 caliber rifles. No more fiddling with adjusting the powder measure, one rotor does it all.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I agree with pressman , I see the Lee pro auto disc measure as an economical version of the little dandy instant adjustment that won't change you just need to keep notes .
    I have always wanted a little dandy , but was to cheap to buy one and all the rotors I would need.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
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    Gents - Thanks for all of the info and advice! Outpost thanks for that informative chart - coincidentally, I do use alot of both Bullseye and 2400 and several of your quoted loads I have used. Rugerman - I apprecite the storage tip - I actually have that exact MTM box. Pressman - I think you're right on the 30 cal cast. I shoot alot of 06 with cast 311290s with 2400 - this could be ideal for it. Actually I think my Uniflow is set for the 06 charge of 2400 that I use currently! Greatly appreciate the help - Bill in MA

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Czech_too's Avatar
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    I use the chart that RCBS supplies as a guide, but do check each rotor as to what it actually throws. There may be a variation of a tenth of a grain or more, CYA.
    Something else that I've done is taken a wad of the appropriate diameter, punched out from say a business card, and put it into the cavity of the rotor to sort of give me some more 'flexibility' with the charge thrown. Sometimes you just want to find that in between spot from one rotor to another.
    https://wbrpc.org/

    genealogy, another area of interest

    feedback - http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...9613-czech_too

  16. #16
    Boolit Master


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    I have the RCBS chart printed out and hanging next to my reloading bench. Had Office Depot enlarge it and print on heavy stock.
    Also reduced some copies and taped inside the covers of reloading manuals.
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

    My Experience and My Opinion, are just that, Mine.

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  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    My first powder measure was a Little Dandy and I still have it. It’s simple and consistent. I have many more measures now but none are any more consistent than the Little Dandy.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    The first rotor I want to acquire that I am lacking is the #14. It is listed at 12.0 gr. of HS6 and that is my drop dead favorite charge/powder in a .44 Mag case with the RCBS 250 K.

    I doubt I would ever be able to spring for a full set of rotors however.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy 35isit's Avatar
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    I've had one for several years. I use it to load .38 special .357 magnum .44 magnum and 25-20. I have several rotors, no where near all of them. But when I want to try a new powder or load that requires a rotor I don't have. I buy 2 or 3 near the load I expect to work. If it doesn't unfortunately I have to buy more rotors. I probably will have every rotor from 1 to 20 before long as I keep having to change powders because of the current times.

    I like the idea of storing them in a shotgun shell box. I have one here somewhere.
    Ky State Director IHMSA
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  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy AlHunt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Three44s View Post

    I think Bailey Boats adjustable rotor is a fine addition to our craft but isn’t the Uniflow easier to adjust?
    Possibly, but the *Uniflow can be handheld. Probably 90 seconds or 2 minutes to charge 50 rounds in a loading block.

    EDIT: *Typo ... The Little Dandy can be freehanded
    Last edited by AlHunt; 02-21-2021 at 10:09 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check