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Thread: Road to 1000 boolit batch

  1. #101
    Boolit Master nueces5's Avatar
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    Hello, I was also looking for something to heat my mold, I found something like that, maybe someone else here can tell us if it works
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portatil-15...EAAOSwzb5dwD7g

    I would rather do PC
    The time spent putting them on the baking sheet saves you with sticky dies

  2. #102
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    If you're using a lee push through sizing die you can open it up a little .
    Your using the lee powder through die on your loadmaster to charge your case correct , can you adjust it in the case a little more without over flaring the case mouth ?
    The first part is about sizing your cast boolits ether with allox or pc coating . A lot of members have enlarged the dies with some sandpaper on a split dowel rod .
    The second part is about your powder through die on your press , you can adjust your powder through expander die down - at least until you find yourself over flaring the case mouth . You may be able to get a little more depth .

  3. #103
    Boolit Master
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    I use a lee powder through expander die in my loadmaster to expand the case + just barely flair the case mouth . I just barely remove the flair when I seat a cast boolit the mouth of a loaded round is around .471-.473 , this allows the loaded cartridge to plunk but definitely not free spin easily & some don't freely plunk but will with the slightest touch .

  4. #104
    Boolit Buddy
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    Update: NOE expander plugs coming today. And, I've modified one of my sizer cylinders to drop .4525". So now, in theory I should be able to create the best batch of ammo I've ever made: boolits sized big and installed in cases expanded to not crush them. Finally! I'll probably do a batch of PC and ALOX, as usual, to compare and contrast.

    Looking forward to hitting what I am pointing the pistol at, and getting rid of 6" flyers at 15 yards

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    , this allows the loaded cartridge to plunk but definitely not free spin easily & some don't freely plunk but will with the slightest touch .
    what are your thoughts on this

  6. #106
    Boolit Buddy
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    update: it would seem that the actual casting of the boolits is now the easiest part of this whole operation..I can pump out hundreds an hour no problem and maintain the mold..

    its the loading for accuracy that is the challenge for me

  7. #107
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    Your well on your way to having a excess of cast boolits.
    Sorry; I missed this earlier. Can you explain this thing, “excess of cast boolits”?
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  8. #108
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    Sorry; I missed this earlier. Can you explain this thing, “excess of cast boolits”?
    Boolits ready to load - setting in a container - waiting for a empty case so you can load them . Haha haha

  9. #109
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    I find that I want to taper crimp to .470-.471 at the case mouth to avoid setback and to assure a proper fit in my 45 ACP ammo.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  10. #110
    Boolit Master
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    Just noticed that nobody mentioned the OP’s choreboy purchase.

    You bought a couple types, you don’t want to use the plated one, just the pure copper one.

    As an aside, I taper crimp just enough to remove the belling, not to try to prevent setback. Too much crimp cuts into the powder coating and that’s not ideal.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Just noticed that nobody mentioned the OP’s choreboy purchase.

    You bought a couple types, you don’t want to use the plated one, just the pure copper one.

    As an aside, I taper crimp just enough to remove the belling, not to try to prevent setback. Too much crimp cuts into the powder coating and that’s not ideal.
    Okay so unlike my usual ramblings..I dont have any data right now for this..however:

    I seem to notice that I cant get rounds to plunk unless I taper very very slightly past the point of just removing the flare, so that there is a very tiny, slight inward angle, and upon inspection of pulled boolits this seems to push inward on the boolits

    Not sure if this is a combination of my COAL and/or PC thickness or what. I am paying very close attention to the taper process and I cant seem to avoid needing this.

  12. #112
    Boolit Master
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    A slight taper crimp isn’t going to hurt anything.

  13. #113
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by reddog81 View Post
    A slight taper crimp isn’t going to hurt anything.
    If it did none of mine would work , they all get some crimp.

  14. #114
    Boolit Master
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    The more you taper crimp, the smaller the bullet gets up near the mouth. As long as it does not cause leading, a little bullet squeezing during crimping should be just fine.

  15. #115
    Boolit Master
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    As they said above, a very little is fine, and as you said earlier, far better to seat in one operation and crimp in another.

    To check if there is a potential issue just use your bullet puller to take one apart and see if you’ve torn the coating.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check