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Thread: Proposed bullet design for an 1851 revolver.

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erebos View Post
    The suggestion to make the nose shorter does not seem to be accompanied by a reason.
    The reason is so that it doesn't sit higher than a round ball when loading. That way, it won't require modifying the gun. Again, the height of the slot isn't the issue. It's the width and taper of it. Trust me, I just finished modifying my pair of 1851s to take conicals. It's not just a matter of getting them rotated under the ram. You also have to be able to get them started in the chamber.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erebos View Post
    It's got more bearing surface than a round ball, and those shoot just fine. Of the several concerns voiced here, this is the only one so far that doesn't seem to make sense to me.
    No offense but if you dont understand why this differs from a round ball to a longer bullet then you are wasting your time.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
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    No offense but if you dont understand why this differs from a round ball to a longer bullet then you are wasting your time.
    Are you going to explain the point you're trying to make, or are you just here to lord over me and act superior without making an actual argument?

    I posted this to get meaningful feedback, not bluster. "No offense."

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Hellgate's Avatar
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    I was not suggesting a second grease groove, just two shallow steps on either side of the driving band to help center it in the chamber.
    Hellgate in Orygun
    With 16+revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap&ball.
    If you do not subscribe to a newspaper you are uninformed. If you do subscribe to a newspaper you are misinformed. Mark Twain
    ”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hellgate View Post
    I was not suggesting a second grease groove, just two shallow steps on either side of the driving band to help center it in the chamber.
    Maybe a .36 cal R.E.A.L. type.

  6. #26
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    I was not suggesting a second grease groove, just two shallow steps on either side of the driving band to help center it in the chamber.
    You're right, Hellgate. I went back and read through again. I thought somebody somewhere along the way had suggested a second grease groove. Now, I'm not 100% sure why.

    Perhaps I'll make a third version with a single large grease groove in the center, and long guide steps with a bevel at each end.

    At any rate, versions 1 and 2 are on the printer now, and I'll know in roughly an hour if these designs have any merit at all or if I'm way off track.

  7. #27
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    Ball ends up looking like this when pushed into the cylinder
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #28
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    Ball ends up looking like this when pushed into the cylinder
    Yup. And that's why I was marginally concerned about tripling the amount of full diameter contact area with version 2 (the wadcutter style one).

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by GARD72977 View Post
    No offense but if you dont understand why this differs from a round ball to a longer bullet then you are wasting your time.
    I'm just talking general rules for good cast bullets.

    1.Long unsupported nose do not promote accurracy.

    2. Flat base bullets tend to be more accurrate than bevel base. Your base will not keep the bullet going straight down the barrel.

    The round ball even though it is not truly round after its loaded and shot will not have much effect on accurracy if it does not stay on axis.

    Your design seems the opposite of what I would design for accurracy.

  10. #30
    Boolit Bub
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    That unsupported section of the nose that you're fretting about is only .16" long. The entire bullet (version 1) length is only 125% of diameter. So it's not like it's extremely long to the point where the proportions are bizarre. .47" long X .375" wide.

  11. #31
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    You may be correct about the rear-facing taper being detrimental to accuracy, however. It's a 9.9 degree taper from .375" to .319".

  12. #32
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    Bullets are steered from the base. Nothing to stop this design for cocking sideways as it goes down the barrel

  13. #33
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    Yeah I get it. You don't like version 1. Noted. Thank you.

  14. #34
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    So, to all the people who told me these won't fit in the loading window, this is why I take measurements and make models first. It's not a guess. They both fit with tons of room to spare.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #35
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erebos View Post
    So, to all the people who told me these won't fit in the loading window, this is why I take measurements and make models first. It's not a guess. They both fit with tons of room to spare.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow! How did you make the mock ups? Lathe? 3D printing?

  16. #36
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    3D printer. I had five of each ready in 45 minutes. The printer made them while I was eating dinner.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master VariableRecall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erebos View Post
    3D printer. I had five of each ready in 45 minutes. The printer made them while I was eating dinner.
    sure beats making a prototype mold that's for sure!

  18. #38
    Boolit Master AntiqueSledMan's Avatar
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    Hello guys,

    My thought on making the nose shorter was to create the length closer to the diameter.
    Weight could be adjusted by making the grease groove deeper.
    Also it would have two .050" bands on a 0.1825" surface.
    I must add personally I'd just stick with a round ball.
    Apparently Erebos wants a heavier bullet as a .375 ball is only about 80gr,
    and he doesn't want to have to load them in certain direction.
    No matter the reason, I compliment him on trying something different.
    I did build a swaging die to form a .375 round ball into a hollow base conical,
    thus creating a conical which weighs the same as a round ball like the obsolete Ball-Ettes.

    AntiqueSledMan
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by AntiqueSledMan; 02-01-2021 at 07:16 AM.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by GARD72977 View Post
    No offense but if you dont understand why this differs from a round ball to a longer bullet then you are wasting your time.
    I decided to not waste any more time on him. He has this in his head, and will need to learn on his own.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  20. #40
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    Waksupi, you left one comment saying it won't work worth a darn because it has less bearing surface than a ball and then you peaced out, never explained your assertion, and then came back to make a second comment that also explains nothing. You haven't made any attempt to be helpful. I hope you don't waste any more time on me. It would be a blessing.

    To those of you who have been genuinely helpful, I thank you.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check